All good questions and I completely understand the compulsion to get it right.

I ask a ton of questions too because I don't know the answers and I know these guys do however this one's relatively easy because it would be tough to push HPS pads past their limits on the street.

Since the front does most of the hard work, you can go cheap parts store ceramics for the rear.

 

Thanks guys! As for the yard work that is not an option as the groundskeepers take care of it here at Stanford and I have enough to do finishing medical school and packing up a small family to move coast-to-coast but I appreciate the humor! The basis of my concern (which I should have provided before) was that in my younger days when I was in college in southern CA I use to canyon run (Malibu and Santa Barbara canyons=big elevation changes) a much lighter car (Acura RSX-S 6speed) and regularly experienced fade with stock OEM pads, ceramics and Hawk HPS. I agree that I do not think I would have ever been physically able to push Hawk HPS past the limit on the street but on a 5-10 minute downhill canyon run hot on the tail of an M3 I have experienced them fade. Anyway no sense beating a dead horse here it seems that the consensus it that it does not matter what you run on the street especially in the rear so I will go w/ EBC yellow in the front and my cheap Brakemotive ceramics in the back. As for track HPDE at VIR and Summit Point (NASA Mid-Atlantic) I am leaning towards DTC60 in the front and HT10 or HP+ in the rear.

 

Brake "fade" is not a symptom of the pad as a general rule, it's the fluid boiling. I have never had brake "fade" in my car.

I have however had pad knockback, and still do.....I just left foot pump the brake pedal on the straights.... just touch it good to push the pads back out on the rear...... Get into the habit of doing this if you track an fbody.

I have overheated the pads to the point they melted onto the rotors and Ithought my dash was going to jump out of the car when I got on the brakes.

 

Good point FASTFATBOY it was probably my fluid boiling as I was running regular parts store fluid back in those days. Will go ATE or Motul 600 when I flush these out and install the SS lines next week. I know you said you overheated the DTC30 in the past what did you have on the rear that day?

 

Hawk HP+

 

Good to know. Will likely do DTC60/HT10 and quality blanks for my beginning track setup.

 

I would run HP+.

My Next pad setup will be Carbotech XP20 front and either a AX6 or HP+ rear.

Most likely^^

 

I ran carbotech's last year...AX6's for autox/street and XP12s for track on the same front rotors even though i was told they are not compatible and i haven't had any issues. although the XP12s can handle heat and are easy to modulate, they don't have the bite of a hawk ht-10...which makes sense since the ht-10 is a rotor eater.

I'm still using the same rotors this year as i did last year for autox/street...swtiched to an ST-47 for track this year so i will be running different rotors those to see hard they are on them...