How well do different Hawk compounds get along?
How well do different Hawk compounds get along? Finally running a dedicated set of track pads and street pads. All Hawk products for now.
I'm running DTC-60 in the front on dedicated rotors for the track and HPS on the street with separate rotors. On the rear, I'm running the HP+ for the track and the HPS for the street.
My question is whether or not the HP+ compound and the HPS compound on the rear would play nice on the same rotor? I've read a good bit about guys (primarily the Corvette crowd) swapping from the street pads to the track pads (on the same rotors) a couple days before an event to allow the more abrasive track pads to scrape off the thin layer of street compound and bed in the track compound. In theory, this sounds like it would work. You guys have any thoughts on this? Good idea? Bad idea?
I'm running DTC-60 in the front on dedicated rotors for the track and HPS on the street with separate rotors. On the rear, I'm running the HP+ for the track and the HPS for the street.
My question is whether or not the HP+ compound and the HPS compound on the rear would play nice on the same rotor? I've read a good bit about guys (primarily the Corvette crowd) swapping from the street pads to the track pads (on the same rotors) a couple days before an event to allow the more abrasive track pads to scrape off the thin layer of street compound and bed in the track compound. In theory, this sounds like it would work. You guys have any thoughts on this? Good idea? Bad idea?
all hawk pads are close enough to be able to use the same rotors. whether its the same compound, or similar, or whatever, its fine. plus, it practically doesnt matter what you use on the rear. 90% of your braking is from the front. i swapped rear pads, with completely different makes/compounds with the same rotors for several years of track/street use. granted, i barely did 500 street miles a year, but street use is extremely light on brakes.
i swapped pads immediately before and after a track day. no extra time bedding in track pads or anything, and i never had a problem with brakes.
i swapped pads immediately before and after a track day. no extra time bedding in track pads or anything, and i never had a problem with brakes.
Finally running a dedicated set of track pads and street pads. All Hawk products for now.
I'm running DTC-60 in the front on dedicated rotors for the track and HPS on the street with separate rotors. On the rear, I'm running the HP+ for the track and the HPS for the street.
My question is whether or not the HP+ compound and the HPS compound on the rear would play nice on the same rotor? I've read a good bit about guys (primarily the Corvette crowd) swapping from the street pads to the track pads (on the same rotors) a couple days before an event to allow the more abrasive track pads to scrape off the thin layer of street compound and bed in the track compound. In theory, this sounds like it would work. You guys have any thoughts on this? Good idea? Bad idea?
I'm running DTC-60 in the front on dedicated rotors for the track and HPS on the street with separate rotors. On the rear, I'm running the HP+ for the track and the HPS for the street.
My question is whether or not the HP+ compound and the HPS compound on the rear would play nice on the same rotor? I've read a good bit about guys (primarily the Corvette crowd) swapping from the street pads to the track pads (on the same rotors) a couple days before an event to allow the more abrasive track pads to scrape off the thin layer of street compound and bed in the track compound. In theory, this sounds like it would work. You guys have any thoughts on this? Good idea? Bad idea?
Same rotor in back for street and track is fine. That's how I've run both of my cars. The T/A has dedicated fronts for track, with Hawk DTC70 pads. Backs are EBC directional rotors with EBC yellow pads for 98-02 LS1 f-body. I'll probably get two or three years out of them.
The GP gets babied on the track (I use it as my "2nd string quarterback" and daily driver), I use hawk street pads for all occasions on it. Front rotors are solid, oe spec for Buick Lacrosse Super, not the cross drilled GP GXP ones.
The GP gets babied on the track (I use it as my "2nd string quarterback" and daily driver), I use hawk street pads for all occasions on it. Front rotors are solid, oe spec for Buick Lacrosse Super, not the cross drilled GP GXP ones.
Same rotor in back for street and track is fine. That's how I've run both of my cars. The T/A has dedicated fronts for track, with Hawk DTC70 pads. Backs are EBC directional rotors with EBC yellow pads for 98-02 LS1 f-body. I'll probably get two or three years out of them.
The GP gets babied on the track (I use it as my "2nd string quarterback" and daily driver), I use hawk street pads for all occasions on it. Front rotors are solid, oe spec for Buick Lacrosse Super, not the cross drilled GP GXP ones.
The GP gets babied on the track (I use it as my "2nd string quarterback" and daily driver), I use hawk street pads for all occasions on it. Front rotors are solid, oe spec for Buick Lacrosse Super, not the cross drilled GP GXP ones.
Thanks guys -- just what I was trying to figure out.
So far I really like the DTC-60's up front. I've slowly worked myself up through the Hawks line to get a feel for most of the compounds. The DTC-60 has a firmer bite than the DTC-30's I was running before and they're better in the higher end of the temp range. Easier to get ABS to kick in with the 60's however they're still easy to back out of and control once you're close to that point. I think next time I need to replace my track pads I'll give the DTC-70's a shot just so I have a better feel for that end of the Hawk's spectrum.
As for the rears, I'll keep swapping between the HP+ for track and HPS for the street. Once it's time for rear pads & rotors, I think I'll make the move to EBC Yellows as a dual purpose pad.
So far I really like the DTC-60's up front. I've slowly worked myself up through the Hawks line to get a feel for most of the compounds. The DTC-60 has a firmer bite than the DTC-30's I was running before and they're better in the higher end of the temp range. Easier to get ABS to kick in with the 60's however they're still easy to back out of and control once you're close to that point. I think next time I need to replace my track pads I'll give the DTC-70's a shot just so I have a better feel for that end of the Hawk's spectrum.
As for the rears, I'll keep swapping between the HP+ for track and HPS for the street. Once it's time for rear pads & rotors, I think I'll make the move to EBC Yellows as a dual purpose pad.
That sounds like a solid combo. What rotor do you run in the front for track? Right now I think I am going to remove my Brakemotiv slotted/drilled w/ ceramic pads and sell it (<5K easy miles) and am going to find a solid parts store blank (any recs?) for front and rear and put on EBC yellow. I will get a second rotor for track and run something more aggressive in the front for track.
Strano also carries the Best Brand blanks for $199 shipped (all four) and they seem to be well regarded however I don't have any personal experience with them. If the NAPA rotors turned out to be a disappointment, the package deal from Sam would've been the next choice.
Trending Topics
I ran out of my stockpile of Brembo blanks so I'm running NAPA Premium blanks right now and they've been great so far. $36.00 each and NAPA is about a half mile from my place so it's nice to get the parts in hand immediately without shipping costs.
Strano also carries the Best Brand blanks for $199 shipped (all four) and they seem to be well regarded however I don't have any personal experience with them. If the NAPA rotors turned out to be a disappointment, the package deal from Sam would've been the next choice.
Strano also carries the Best Brand blanks for $199 shipped (all four) and they seem to be well regarded however I don't have any personal experience with them. If the NAPA rotors turned out to be a disappointment, the package deal from Sam would've been the next choice.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo just another FYI, dont go with an overly aggressive rear pad. wheel hop is very common with these cars. i used the cheapest, no-name rear pad on my TA for both street and track, and still had brake hop. a proportioning valve could fix it, as could possibly finding a rear pad with less initial bite. spend your money and effort on the fronts, and just leave the rears basically stock.
just another FYI, dont go with an overly aggressive rear pad. wheel hop is very common with these cars. i used the cheapest, no-name rear pad on my TA for both street and track, and still had brake hop. a proportioning valve could fix it, as could possibly finding a rear pad with less initial bite. spend your money and effort on the fronts, and just leave the rears basically stock.
Thanks! I was planning on starting off with quality blanks and EBC yellow stuff front and rear for street/spirited back road/beginning auto-x and a dedicated set of front rotors with something like Hawk DTC 30 or 60 for beginning HPDE/track with the EBC yellows in the back.
Look at Ferodo pads. Specifially the DS2500 these will do all you want to do for the step into the pool you are about to make.
Much better to OVER pad the car on the front than under pad it. I learned this at Barber at my very first event with DTC30's on the car. Every loose screw in the car fell out from all the shaking.
If you under pad the car you overheat the pad, then it melts onto the rotor causing brake vibration.
BTW I have a set of used DTC30's if anyone wants them.
Look at Ferodo pads. Specifially the DS2500 these will do all you want to do for the step into the pool you are about to make.
Much better to OVER pad the car on the front than under pad it. I learned this at Barber at my very first event with DTC30's on the car. Every loose screw in the car fell out from all the shaking.
If you under pad the car you overheat the pad, then it melts onto the rotor causing brake vibration.
BTW I have a set of used DTC30's if anyone wants them.
Much better to OVER pad the car on the front than under pad it. I learned this at Barber at my very first event with DTC30's on the car. Every loose screw in the car fell out from all the shaking.
If you under pad the car you overheat the pad, then it melts onto the rotor causing brake vibration.
BTW I have a set of used DTC30's if anyone wants them.
That is great advice on the Ferodo DS2500 I have seen that pad but unfortunately they do not make it for the LS1 front brakes. I would need corvette fronts to run that pad. For street/backcountry roads/auto-x I will be on EBC yellows front and rear but for track I was thinking HP 10 or DTC 60 or maybe even 70 on the front with EBC yellow in the back. If you think DTC30 on the front w/ EBC yellow on the back would be fine for beginner HPDE I will buy the DTC 30 from you if they are LS1 front brake size.
I know nothing about the EBC pads, I would probably run Hawk HP+ or HPS on the rear.
Supposedly the EBC yellow is more aggressive than the HP+ but with less noise for the street. I would like to avoid HP+ on the street due to the noise. The other option I thought of doing is HPS in the rear w/ EBC yellow on the front for street/auto-x and switch to DTC 30 for less braking intensive tracks (Summit Point, WV) and DTC 60 for the more brake intensive tracks (VIR, VA). Do you guys think EBC yellow front and rear will give me too much wheel hop for my non-track setup?
Supposedly the EBC yellow is more aggressive than the HP+ but with less noise for the street. I would like to avoid HP+ on the street due to the noise. The other option I thought of doing is HPS in the rear w/ EBC yellow on the front for street/auto-x and switch to DTC 30 for less braking intensive tracks (Summit Point, WV) and DTC 60 for the more brake intensive tracks (VIR, VA). Do you guys think EBC yellow front and rear will give me too much wheel hop for my non-track setup?
Put it where the pad backing plate touches anywhere.
Run one set of pads and learn them, when you exceed what they have to offer move up.
You are over thinking it, seat time, seat time, seat time.
I have never ever heard or known of EBC being a truly track oriented pad.
You will never drive the car hard enough on the street to worry about wheel hop unless you have a goofy pad setup on the car.
I will use the lubricant. I will be getting my seat time once I move out to the East Coast but as for right now all I can do is prep the car as there are no track events nearby for the next month and I am packing up a house and small family for an coast to coast move so about all I can do is research and prep the car. Right now I have Brakemotiv rotors with Brakemotiv ceramic pads so I need to upgrade If I want to enjoy the backcountry roads I will finally have where I am moving (live in the SF Bay Area right now). I do not want to waste money so I enjoy tapping into the collective intelligence of you guys that have been there and done that. So basically the question is for my non-road course setup (street, auto-x, canyon carving) would you go:
1. EBC yellow front and rear
2. EBC yellow front and HPS rear
3. EBC yellow front and Brakemotiv ceramic in rear
4. HPS all around
5. HPS front and Brakemotiv ceramic in rear
The Ferodo DS2500 is not an option as I do not have corvette brakes and this setup will not see track use as I will have a completely separate track/rotor setup for track as where I am moving (Virginia) most track weekends in the area (Summit Point, VIR) will run ~$400 just for the entry fee so the cost of an extra set of rotors/pads to fully enjoy it without fade, vibration, wheel hop etc. is relatively small. Thanks so much for the advice I really appreciate it and am learning a lot from you guys!
1. EBC yellow front and rear
2. EBC yellow front and HPS rear
3. EBC yellow front and Brakemotiv ceramic in rear
4. HPS all around
5. HPS front and Brakemotiv ceramic in rear
The Ferodo DS2500 is not an option as I do not have corvette brakes and this setup will not see track use as I will have a completely separate track/rotor setup for track as where I am moving (Virginia) most track weekends in the area (Summit Point, VIR) will run ~$400 just for the entry fee so the cost of an extra set of rotors/pads to fully enjoy it without fade, vibration, wheel hop etc. is relatively small. Thanks so much for the advice I really appreciate it and am learning a lot from you guys!
Last edited by orthopod; May 7, 2014 at 06:55 PM.
If you're looking for a simple street setup with better than stock stopping power, option #4 or #5 in your post above should do the trick. #5 would be the most cost effective. The HPS pads are far from ready for track duty, however you shouldn't have to worry about exceeding their limits on the street.
FASTFATBOY -- just picked up a can of the Permatex Extreme Temp lube you posted above and will give it a shot at quieting down the squeaky pads!
FASTFATBOY -- just picked up a can of the Permatex Extreme Temp lube you posted above and will give it a shot at quieting down the squeaky pads!
If you're looking for a simple street setup with better than stock stopping power, option #4 or #5 in your post above should do the trick. #5 would be the most cost effective. The HPS pads are far from ready for track duty, however you shouldn't have to worry about exceeding their limits on the street.
FASTFATBOY -- just picked up a can of the Permatex Extreme Temp lube you posted above and will give it a shot at quieting down the squeaky pads!
FASTFATBOY -- just picked up a can of the Permatex Extreme Temp lube you posted above and will give it a shot at quieting down the squeaky pads!
I just picked up a can on Amazon too. Yes now that I have decided to just have a completely separate setup of pads/rotors for the track I am leaning towards just upgrading the front and leaving the cheap Brakemotiv ceramics in the back. Do you think the HPS in the front and cheap ceramics in the back would put up with an auto-x and spirited country drives or should I go with something more aggressive like EBC yellow in the front and keep the cheap ceramics out back for that?
I run cheap *** ceramic pads on the street and for the few autox events I do.
On the Wilwoods I run BP10 fronts and cheap *** ceramics in the rear now.
If you are running fast enough on the street to justify this much thinking on pads, park the car and wait to get on the track.
