Flying_Pig

Looking to get my car back into autocross with my 98 trans am ls1 and just bought a baffle but am thinking of getting an accusump as well for the added protection. It is a high mileage car now also so figure it could use the added protection.

Don't really have any powertrain mods on it but at the last race with an extra quart of oil I saw a bubble in the oil. Rather be safe than sorry.

1) What size accusump are you guys using at the autocross?

2) where are you putting it? Would like to keep it vertical if at all possible...

Thanks in advance!

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

A good pan with baffles is a great idea. I also read that a good windage tray helps too. Wish I could do that, but I'm not pulling the engine for that unless I need something else done too.

Anyways I have a 3qt accusump. I have it installed horizonally between the radiator and the serpentine belts. There are some 1/4 inch aluminum stock pieces holding it up from the lower part of the radiator support. The line goes to a sandwich plate on the oil filter fitting. Since my car is street + AX I can't find a good place to put it vertically. Or any other place to be honest, where I have it seems the only piece of free space in the engine area. It's a PITA to check the guage or refill it - but thankfully that's not something that needs checked often or at the track (for me).

I've had mine for over 14 years. I've a had a few issues now and then. Here's my advice on Accusump - get a couple of backup pressure sensors to have on hand. I've had them fail after a couple years. I dont know why, they just do. Rig up a light on the pressure valve so you can see when it's on/open. Such as a small LED in the dash area somewhere. I've also had problems where the pressure switch wouldn't register correctly, and it wouldn't turn on when I needed to start the car. Then I wasn't sure if it would work correctly during my AX runs if pressure went low. So I also wired in an override switch. It bypasses the pressure sensor and opens the valve. I only use this at AX, and I leave it on during the whole run. I can also use the switch on cold starts if the pressure sensor doesn't register right too.



Sorry pic is kind of sideways.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

Get the biggest one you can afford/fit. Try to mount it low, so the lines don't drain when the engine is off. The Canton web site has instruction on how to install it with the oil cooler, the one way valve, etc.

Some people like to use the electric solenoids. They open when the pressure drops below a certain point, say, 30psi. But I'v found them to be not very reliable, and they fail when you need them most. The electric valves introduce more complexity, more cost, more leak points, and more failure points. I recommend that you skip it.

The original design of the reserve is to have an open line with a pressure reserve. As your oil pressure varies, the reserve will fill and drain as needed. That's the way mine is set up. My data logger shows that I have rock solid oil pressure lap after lap. It never varies more than a few psi.

Some people like to put in a manual valve, and use the sump as a pre-oiler. I didn't bother with that, either. None of my other engines have a pre-oiler, and they easily last 150K miles of daily driving and frequent cold starts. My race engine doesn't need to last nearly that long between overhauls.

You can mount them pretty much anywhere. If it's a dedicated track car, put it in the passenger foot well, and use braided lines. I have seen them in the trunk.

Flying_Pig

Sounds like lower front horizontally is the only place it will fit as mine is also a daily driver (pretty much weekends only at this stage). Living in Florida don't think I could survive without a/c....

my understanding is the manual valve is basically always on? My concern is Given I really only need for track days - maybe I will use for pre-oiling just in hopes I can keep the motor running a little bit longer (175k miles). Last time I had this car to the track my pressure was pretty low at idle between runs so sounds like perhaps the manual valve may be best anyways

Since I'm getting the baffle installed I guess it's probably worthwhile to replace the pan at the same time. What pan are you guys using and did you install yourselves or pay? Not sure what I should expect pricewise if I'm going to need to drop the engine.

Looks like Improved racing has a baffled pan for sale but I just bought their baffle.... doh!

ImprovedRacing

We sell new F-Body pans as well. Shoot us an email with your order, and we can give you the pan + baffle package discount on an order for the pan if you like.

70 Bug Mid Engine

Hey guys, what one way valve is everyone using? I am assuming most of you are doing -10an lines? I know not all one way valves flow the same and I dont want to have the valve be a restriction.

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

Mine is from "boomba" racing.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...roductid=27780

70 Bug Mid Engine

Maybe I should have clarified. Looking for a one way valve for the oil line. From everything I have read, you need one so that when the tank does its job, it doesnt feed oil back into the oil pan.

70 Bug Mid Engine

This

.boB

iTrader: (1)

I used this one on a couple of builds: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23875



And, yes, I did use -10 AN lines and firttings.