Best budget oiling upgrades?
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Ohio
I still have ~$600 budget to spend on the car. It looks like an Accusump might be in the cards afterall.
Recommended PSI for the EPC valve? I think I have around 40 PSI of oil pressure at idle, so the 35-40 PSI kit would be maximum I assume, with maybe the 20-25 PSI kit being more ideal?
Recommended PSI for the EPC valve? I think I have around 40 PSI of oil pressure at idle, so the 35-40 PSI kit would be maximum I assume, with maybe the 20-25 PSI kit being more ideal?
Call Canton for the PSI that's best for you. Here's a hint from my many years of using it. Wire up a light to the dash so you can see when it comes on. Mine, I use as a pre-oiler and for AX. So if you go with the electric that opens on startup, you can see it work. Or, not work. Then you know maybe the sensor has gone bad and need a replacement. I put a manual override switch on it, so if the valve doesn't open b/c the sensor is whacked, I can still open it for an AX run. For RR, well you don't want to leave it "open". Also the air pressure needs checked/bled/refilled at least 2x per year, IMO. They are good units, but for whatever reason, I have had some frustration over the years with mine - it's not a set and forget, it needs some tending to.
I think you'd want the 35psi valve. I have ~40psi at idle and ~60+ at higher rpm.
On my "monitor light" I do get a flicker on the light when the engine is real hot and I'm cruising low rpm. Not worrried, I think it is just near the sensor pressure and it flutters.
I think you'd want the 35psi valve. I have ~40psi at idle and ~60+ at higher rpm.
On my "monitor light" I do get a flicker on the light when the engine is real hot and I'm cruising low rpm. Not worrried, I think it is just near the sensor pressure and it flutters.
Most users will go with the 20-25 psi setup. Ideally you want it to be just below idle oil pressure (lowest case scenario)....but wait until your oil temps get up to 260, 280, and even 300 degrees F when your on the track (just wait trust me it will happen unless your oil cooling system is monstrous and has ducted/forced airflow through it), your oil pressure is going to drop dramatically everywhere you operate. Run with the 20-25 psi setup 
I don't like the electric valves. They're not reliable. They're pretty famous for failures. Fortunately, they fail open. But they're expensive, and don't have a warranty more than 90 days. IMO, (and Cantons') they're not necessary for a track car, they add cost and complexity, and add failure points.
If you want to use it as a pre-oiler, put in a simple in-line ball valve. Otherwise, just run an open line. If you read the instructions from Canton, that's the way it's recommended to be run on the track.
"In hard core racing applications a manual valve is used for simplicity. This valve can be mounted either on the Accusump directly or plumbed anywhere convenient along the feed line. With this valve, the operator has to manually open the valve before starting the engine and close the valve before shutting the engine off."
http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html
Canton even sells a kit to remotely operate the ball valve with a simple push-pull cable.
If you want to use it as a pre-oiler, put in a simple in-line ball valve. Otherwise, just run an open line. If you read the instructions from Canton, that's the way it's recommended to be run on the track.
"In hard core racing applications a manual valve is used for simplicity. This valve can be mounted either on the Accusump directly or plumbed anywhere convenient along the feed line. With this valve, the operator has to manually open the valve before starting the engine and close the valve before shutting the engine off."
http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html
Canton even sells a kit to remotely operate the ball valve with a simple push-pull cable.
I don't like the electric valves. They're not reliable. They're pretty famous for failures. Fortunately, they fail open. But they're expensive, and don't have a warranty more than 90 days. IMO, (and Cantons') they're not necessary for a track car, they add cost and complexity, and add failure points.
If you want to use it as a pre-oiler, put in a simple in-line ball valve. Otherwise, just run an open line. If you read the instructions from Canton, that's the way it's recommended to be run on the track.
"In hard core racing applications a manual valve is used for simplicity. This valve can be mounted either on the Accusump directly or plumbed anywhere convenient along the feed line. With this valve, the operator has to manually open the valve before starting the engine and close the valve before shutting the engine off."
http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html
Canton even sells a kit to remotely operate the ball valve with a simple push-pull cable.
If you want to use it as a pre-oiler, put in a simple in-line ball valve. Otherwise, just run an open line. If you read the instructions from Canton, that's the way it's recommended to be run on the track.
"In hard core racing applications a manual valve is used for simplicity. This valve can be mounted either on the Accusump directly or plumbed anywhere convenient along the feed line. With this valve, the operator has to manually open the valve before starting the engine and close the valve before shutting the engine off."
http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html
Canton even sells a kit to remotely operate the ball valve with a simple push-pull cable.
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Verdad Gallardo Put in a manual valve (if you want to). Before shutting off the engine, close the valve. Then just leave it closed until the next track day.
On my previous street/track car, I didn't use any kind of valve, just an open line to the Accusump. Works all the time, saves money on components and fittings, and eliminates failure points. Sometimes simple is the best.
You will need a one way valve to prevent oil from just dumping in to the oil pan. It goes in the circuit before the "T" connection. That's in the instruction sheet from Canton.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2018
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Is there a way to monitor how much oil is in the Accusump?
I like the idea of getting one, but not knowing when it's actually kicking in and how much of its capacity is being used would really bug the **** out of me. Of course a blown engine would bug me even more, but still.
I like the idea of getting one, but not knowing when it's actually kicking in and how much of its capacity is being used would really bug the **** out of me. Of course a blown engine would bug me even more, but still.
