JoeNova

Thinking about making an attempt to road race my car in June. Right now I'm running a stock F-body pan. The car is turbocharged, and has excellent oil pressure. I'm running restrictors in the turbo feeds so they aren't bleeding off much oil pressure to the lifters.

I've considered a couple of baffle designs. The car is super-budget, and I can't afford a dry-sump. I'm open to swapping out the oil pan and oil pump.

Any suggestions on what actually works? Lost of products out there, and while I've researched some, there's just a lot of conflicting info.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Big *** oil cooler!!

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

What is "super budget"? Give us a number. From what I've read the Canton pans can flex and make lining up the rear bellhousing bolts a pain. Call Improved Racing, they have a nice windage tray I hear. I have an Accusump and that's a good solution too.

rickpaw

Oil pan baffle kit from Improved Racing, and/or Accusump. That should take care of your need.

JoeNova

Oil cooler won't be much of an issue. Car has no hood/fenders/front bumper. The engine sees a LOT of airflow. The swap to an aluminum block this fall will help that issue further.

As far as "Super Budget", I have $8100 total in the car as it sits.

That's cost of the car, doing the LS swap, creating the quad turbo setup, doing cam/misc engine upgrades, 1500 HP capable E85 fuel system, 10-point cage, paddle shifted TH400, C6Z wheels and new tires, upgrading every last brake component except the actual brake pedal, double adjustable coilovers, megasquirt, huge *** carbon fiber rear wing, fingerprint ignition, custom traction control, insanely capable boost controller (boost by speed/time/G-force/traction/gear/RPM/cornering-G/etc).

Everything has been done for bare minimum cost by applying maximum effort. I'm not looking to upgrade the oiling system for a quarter of what I have in the car.

mikedamageinc

iTrader: (49)

Ported ls6 oil pump, improved racing pan baffle, windage tray, oil thermostat and oil cooler, and run it a quart high

pdxmotorhead

A properly installed accusump can save a motor on track...

JoeNova

I'm all for the Improved Racing baffle. I'm not sure the accusump is necessary, or in my price range. I already have fail-safes in place for oil pressure.

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

Baffle system will help...but if your seeing sustained high lateral Gs with track tires (A6s, A7s etc) then I think you will have issues still. If it were me and super budget, I would do the trap door/baffle setup, a crank scraper (let me know if you need one I get them from a different company for like $80), drill the lifter trays for faster drain back, and run it high on oil.

I would throw a pressure transducer in the oil rifle and log it. The factory one is way too slow and not super accurate. If your still seeing a drop then an accusump can go a long ways. Simple plumb 1 line into the oil rifle plug hole on drivers side front of the block.

JoeNova

I'm datalogging oil pressure just above the oil filter. The engine that's in it is temporary. If I notice oil issues, I'll consider the accusump. As of now, I'll probably order the improved racing baffle.

Do you have a crank scraper/windage tray compatible with the IR baffle? My windage tray is the stock one from a truck with the front portion trimmed to fit the F-body pan.

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

When using the trap door/baffle/windage tray you remove the factory windage tray I had thought? I dont remember if I did on my F Body pan with the IR baffle thats in the drag car....only reason why I say that is because the trap door/baffle system made by Avaiad that I just installed in my road course c6 z06 said in the instructions to remove the factory windage tray.

The crank scraper I put in the LS7 from this company (if I didnt have the Avaiad pan baffle) is suppose to go between the factory windage tray and the main stud/bolt (its an integrated piece right) and then you use a washer on the other side where there is no crank scraper to level the windage tray out.

I have the engine with the F body pan and IR baffle out of the car and on a stand in my living room....could always test fit it for you. But I need to order the scraper and go through the motions.

FYI the reason its so cheap is its a basic steel water jet piece and typically needs some massaging to get it exactly where you want it. Doesnt take much work and work the savings over $250-300 for the nicer billet aluminum piece when your on a budget.

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

Oh ya and the crank scraper company makes a kind of ghetto looking modified factory windage tray with some screens. I can send you some pictures and you could duplicate it yourself for free

JoeNova

The instructions for the IR baffle say to NOT remove the windage tray, that it is designed to work in conjunction with the factory windage tray bolted to the main caps.

http://www.improvedracing.com/manuals/EGM-200.pdf

ImprovedRacing

As already mentioned, for the F-Body oil pan baffle, you want to keep the factory windage tray. We don't recommend modifying a non-Fbody windage tray either because the pickup tube won't bolt on correctly, which can lead it to being at the wrong height and can cause oil starvation.

So definitely either use the factory windage tray or our crankscraper and windage tray kit.

Also, keep in mind that if you sandwich a crank scraper between the stock windage tray and main caps, you also lower the pickup tube again, and you have to bend the pickup tube to maintain the correct distance between the pickup tube head and the bottom of the pan. Otherwise you'll have a restriction at the pickup tube which can lead to some issues. Our billet scraper and windage tray keeps the pickup tube within 0.030" of the stock height.

Our C6 baffle kit does eliminate the factory windage tray, but that's because it also comes with a crankshaft scraper and the baffle actually acts as the windage tray as the pan is very shallow.

JoeNova

I modified the truck windage tray and pickup tube both so that they mate together without the ridge of the windage tray holding the pickup tube out from seating flush against it. No issues with the pickup now.

I'm working on finishing the chassis up this weekend, and then I'll start getting the engine ready.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

If you dont think an oil cooler is an issue I invite you to revisit this thread after your first time out on a track when you see 300* oil temps after one lap and your engine seizes.

NSFW

Would the LS6 batwing oil pan be an improvement over the f-body pan? And would it fit the engine you have?

.boB

iTrader: (1)

This is good advice, I would listen to this very carefully. Oil is primarily heated by RPM's. Add the turbos, and that oil is going to heat up fast. Air flowing over the engine is going to do almost nothing to cool the oil. Without a cooler, I suspect your summer sessions will be short. We've seen it before.

I would also rethink your Accusump decision. They are actually pretty cheap, in the grand scheme of things. Oil pressure is the only thing that will keep your engine alive on the track. This is more important than the cooler. Even if you lose pressure for a few seconds in the corners, you're going to damage the bearings. Go to the track and wander around the pits. Look and see how many serious cars have these. Pretty much all of them; and there's a reason for that.

JoeNova

I didn't mean its a non-issue because I don't need one. I mean I get plenty (excess) airflow, so I won't need a massive oil cooler. A smaller, but efficient one should work just fine for my setup.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

This is the oil cooler I use, on the top. It's a plate style, the most efficient available, and it's kinda big.

The engine is a normally aspirated LS6 only putting out a little over 400hp. Nearly all GM parts. Nothing special here. It runs on alcohol, so it runs pretty cool regardless of ambient temps

On a really hot day in Pueblo, oil temps will hit 220*. Otherwise, oil temps generally follow water temps, around 190-200*'ish.

This is in a tube frame car with no surrounding sheet metal. You don't get much better air flow than this.



I only give you this to help you decide what type and size of cooler to use. Hope that helps you.