Fuel cells and feed issues.
#1
Restricted User
Thread Starter
Fuel cells and feed issues.
I think I'm having fuel feed issues with my fuel cell.
I have an RCI top feed fuel cell. At the time I bought it, a sump wasn't an option. Its a foamless cell. The fuel pickup tube is 1/2" located about 1/4" from the bottom of the center of the tank.
I have a pair of AEM 380s ran in parallel with check valves below the tank. They are drawing through a spin-on fuel filter.
During hard acceleration or cornering, my fuel pump becomes very loud and my wideband starts to show lean. It usually only lasts a couple of seconds and then goes back to normal.
I have some options:
-Put a Holley Hydramat in the tank. The problem is that the mat itself is $200. I'll have to use a tubing cutter to cut the pickup tube to the appropriate height, and use barb fittings/hose to connect the Hydramat. I can then delete the pre-pump filter.
-Replace the fuel cell with a sumped one. Keep the pre-pump filter. Hope that I still have adequate fueling on hard cornering/decel
-Cut open and baffle my existing cell, change nothing. No hydramat.
Any suggestions on which route to go?
I have an RCI top feed fuel cell. At the time I bought it, a sump wasn't an option. Its a foamless cell. The fuel pickup tube is 1/2" located about 1/4" from the bottom of the center of the tank.
I have a pair of AEM 380s ran in parallel with check valves below the tank. They are drawing through a spin-on fuel filter.
During hard acceleration or cornering, my fuel pump becomes very loud and my wideband starts to show lean. It usually only lasts a couple of seconds and then goes back to normal.
I have some options:
-Put a Holley Hydramat in the tank. The problem is that the mat itself is $200. I'll have to use a tubing cutter to cut the pickup tube to the appropriate height, and use barb fittings/hose to connect the Hydramat. I can then delete the pre-pump filter.
-Replace the fuel cell with a sumped one. Keep the pre-pump filter. Hope that I still have adequate fueling on hard cornering/decel
-Cut open and baffle my existing cell, change nothing. No hydramat.
Any suggestions on which route to go?
#4
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
I did have to cut mine open to install a baffle. I cut strips of aluminum on a table saw and assembled the baffle inside the cell thru the after removing the filler assembly.
To get them to lock together you cut half way thru each strip of aluminum so each half of the cut slide into the other side.
To get them to lock together you cut half way thru each strip of aluminum so each half of the cut slide into the other side.
Last edited by LLLosingit; 07-29-2018 at 02:50 AM.
#7
Restricted User
Thread Starter
Other than the oval hole on the left, it appears we have the EXACT same fuel cell.
Were you having issues even with a full tank? I'll top mine off, stomp the throttle and my fuel pump will start buzzing loudly.
Considering the Hydramat still, although its more expensive than just buying a proper fuel cell. I can sump this one very very easily, but I don't think that will solve my problem.
Were you having issues even with a full tank? I'll top mine off, stomp the throttle and my fuel pump will start buzzing loudly.
Considering the Hydramat still, although its more expensive than just buying a proper fuel cell. I can sump this one very very easily, but I don't think that will solve my problem.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
The extra hole is just so I can fill from either side easily. I have mine mounted at the front the bed of my S10 near the cab and also have a fiberglass tonneau cover that makes it a little tight getting fuel in the cell.I never ran it without the baffles, I've never had an issue with fuel pickup and I like to do some serious cornering and I run it down to 1/4 tank.
The truck is setup pro touring style with 18 x 9.5 fronts with 275/35/18 Nitto's and 19x12 rears with 325/30/19 Nitto's, Big sway bars and stiff springs plus Bilstein shocks all the way around, Also has 14" brakes.
The truck is setup pro touring style with 18 x 9.5 fronts with 275/35/18 Nitto's and 19x12 rears with 325/30/19 Nitto's, Big sway bars and stiff springs plus Bilstein shocks all the way around, Also has 14" brakes.
#10
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
The only way to make an internal change that will really work is to install a collector box with one way valves. Metal baffles with holes in them may be helpful, but are not really going to help much. In the end, you'll spend a lot of time and money for very little improvement. If you're going to cut the tank apart, install a real collector.
You might also consider a surge tank. Still not cheap. But, IMO, better than cutting the tank apart to install baffles.
#11
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Last edited by LLLosingit; 08-06-2018 at 09:46 PM.