What brake setup do you guys use for track events? Big Brake Kits? Pads?

 

Stoptech Brake kit, currently running Hawk HP+ pads, but will prolly change to High Performance friction for track duties only.

 

I have adapted 4 piston Brembos, scavenged from a Porsche 996 GT3 car.

Portfield R4s for street and a Pagid Black on the track

There is a LOT of information on brakes here ...
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=SF&f=2

 

I used stock set-up w/ Hawk HP+ (blue fluid too) and it was fine..but I only plan on attending 1-2 times per year.

 

SMoke I run c-5 setup, Kfp Gold Magnums, Valovline Brake Fluid and break cooling ducts. I had that setup at Beaverun in April at a HPDE 2 day event. Brakes worked really good for the 20 min session and I wasnt takeing it easy. 1.14 Laps. But after driving the 500 there about 175 miles and 500 back I removed >.090 from the pads and rotors started to heat check. I would say maybe one day of track racing left on them. After compeating in the One Lap Of America this yr I might be looking at going to a better fronts. You have to drive 100% at the tracks and I found that I need better brakes. If you were running the same track for a weekend you will be able to run what I have. But when you have only 3 timed laps every second counts. I found that I would go in a bunch of cornners with too much speed and have to get hard on the binders which led to some brake fade. If know the track and was there for days I would find the line and know when to get on the binders, leading to less brake wear from me over useing the brakes.
For Example Road America has 3 high speed(148mph to a 3rd and 2 gear corner) braking zones. Do I break at the 400 meter or 600 meter mark. If I get it wrong I will over use the brakes trying to slow the car. This is one of the fun aspecs of OLOA go to a race track you never have been to before and try to run fast without crashing. I hope you understand my point on this one. Later John

 

I have a C5 conversion. While happy with the braking force, it has a serious appetite for rotors and pads on a road course. Mitch's brakes hold up MUCH better!

 

I run the exact setup Mitchntx runs and couldn't be happier. Had an occasion to do a rapid stop from 170 when I missed the finish line ( Hey it wasn't marked very well OK ?! ) during a 13 mile practice run at the PE130. These babys STOP.

 

Baer Claw Extreme+ 6 piston kit. It has worked very well for me. Hawk pads are OK, but you should replace them often.

 

Hey guys I really appreciate all the feedback. I wasn't sure how much attention this topic would get because it seems like most members on here are more into dragracing than roadracing. I'm glad there are a good number of you guys out there though that understand that brakes are among the most important features of a car if not the most important. I've gotten some great suggesitons here, thanks again.

 

I will be running Wilwoods 6 piston front kit and 4 piston rear kit on my '68. 14" rotors up front, NO drilling or slotting, and 12" discs out back.

 

I run a Movit System GT3 up front and GT2 in the back. Works flawlessy on brake heavy track. Ialso run Pagid RS44 pads all the way around. Not as aggressive as the Pagid RS14 .

 

Here are the usual suspects:

Mov'it setup
LG Motorsports Brembo setup
Stoptech
Prospeed 996 Big Reds
Wilwoods: several to choose from to include front and rear
Baer: Several to choose from: GT+ C5/PBR calipers with 13 1/8" AL hat
rotors (larger than C5 std one piece rotors); all the way to Alcon
Extreme+ large rotors and 6 piston setups
Bob Bishop (late apex) C5 adapter for F body: Uses all C5 parts


Did I forget any?

I used to use the Baer GT+ setup. Looks great and worked very well. C5/PBR calipers and 13 1/8" two piece rotors, SS lines. I replaced them w/the Prospeed kit. There's always something better. The Baer kit is for sale:


http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=6&t=1601&

Regards
steve

 

SSmoke-U : I agree...brakes are VERY important ! If you can't stop(time after time), you had best not go! Is there anything more important than brakes? Absolutely! They're called "tires"! No patch on the pavement, no brakes! Peace!

 

First mod would be harder brake pads. There were already some recommendations given.

Install the best and biggest brake ducting you can get on the front brakes. If your brakes fail or take damage, it is due to heat. Brake cooling is much more important than just getting bigger brakes.

If you have the cooling ducts and race pads, and you start cracking brake discs, I think you can get those replaced really cheap in the US. I think a disc is around $20.

If you get fading, or wreck the discs too quickly, you need bigger brakes. Which is expensive.

Maybe you can even get spindle ducts for your car, I don't know.

Till

 

Any one try CarboTech Bobcat pads?