When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think you misunderstood what I was saying. The car is on the ground, so this is about as good of a pic as I can get.
See the gap between the duct and the rotor? It doesn't fit tightly like the NASCAR duct, but a duct made for 13" rotors would. These are for the 12" LS rotors I suspect.
This shifter is much tighter than the B&M, really hoping this cures my 2-3 missed shifts.
This thing really finds its way home and with my Blainefab **** is miles from overly tight. There was significant slop on center with the old B&M, could have just been worn out. It used to work well, but just at a standstill making vroom vroom noises I'm liking this MGW a lot better.
Seeing how the factory tach died with no filter, I figured the smartest way forward was to snag one off the shelf. Enter my 100 year old Summit tach originally installed in my Crown Victoria.
It lights up a different color every time you flip the ignition power on and off, sometimes splits the colors left and right. Very fitting for this class. I underestimated my reliance on the tach my last time at the track (which was my first without a good tach readout). Next will be chopping some LS knuckles to play with my C5 rotors and borrowed brake ducts. I don't think the Corvette hub adapters will be ready in time for the next race unfortunately. Also unfortunately for Rob, the guy from whom I'm borrowing said ducts, this shouldn't prevent me from whooping his ***.
Tach works. I swapped in my spare ECM and suddenly the speedo was working. Put my chip BDZL with adapter in spare ECM and no go. Put just BDZL in spare ECM and good. Put spare chip BDLD in current ECM and good. Put BDZL in, no adapter, current ECM no good. Try spare chip with BDLD current ECM no good. WTF.
I got my hands on some ducts that will fill the inside of the rotor. I believe they're the Stoptech ducts because the offset is wrong just like my C5 rotor offset is wrong for the Stoptech calipers.
They need to be spaced out about 10mm to seal. This requires longer bolts. No biggie, off to Ace I go. All of their bolts have the same threaded length, it's the shank that grows as you go longer. Well the shank of the too short bolts is as long as the car will take, **** me. They had allthread bolts, but they were grade 8.8, not 10.9. Try googling a 10x1.5x90mm allthread bolt in 10.9. McMaster Carr had a 10 pack in stock, but even with Fastenal it was going to be a special order item. Ridiculous.
Finally got the ducts buttoned up. Filled in that gap pretty good.
The old ducts appear to be Blainefab units intended for LS1 brakes.
Comparison of old bolts vs new.
The bolt in the middle is backed out some. This ended up being the ideal spacing for the ducts.
I believe these ducts were meant for the Stoptech rotors and intended to sit inside the hat, not ride super close to the rotor surface like I have them but I think this will be a lot more effective than the old setup.
I had a decent weekend. These hubs are shot and gave me tons of knock back. My C5 hub adapters are at the plating shop now, so they're already machined. I can't wait. This is going to be another game changer. Just like the MGW. I never missed a shift all weekend or in Friday practice. And with the new syncros and whatnot I can finally bang gears as hard as I want with no gear of missing ever. I love it. So hubs are next like I said and once that's bulletproofed I'm pointing the cross hairs back at my brake setup. I may have to abandon the Raybestos pads as I do get the occasional fade. Saturday I had to settle for first loser, but in today's first race toward the end I pushed way way deep into a turn because the brakes just checked out. Luckily I had enough margin and was able to hold the lead, but I need dead consistency so this crap is coming to a stop. I also won the second race today too so pretty happy about that. My strongest competitor missed 2nd on the standing start, I was able to occupy his real estate, and get in the lead by turn 6 (was an invert). I'm seeing when the Autometer reports 250, the factory temp gauge is reporting around 220. This must explain why running this hot all these years has never killed the motor. The Autometer is not in the factory location, seems the back half runs hotter than the front half. Definitely going to have the cool suit ready for the next race weekend too.
For the time being, I'll sandwich my old C5 plenum ducts between the bearing and adapter but when I go to the Stoptechs I think the plenums on the car now are what I want. I can't wait to experience no knock back. These are the Delaney adapters. I have C7 X Tracker hubs in the mail, just need to figure out which ARP studs to press into them. I want the kind that aren't threaded all the way to the end.
For the time being, I'll sandwich my old C5 plenum ducts between the bearing and adapter but when I go to the Stoptechs I think the plenums on the car now are what I want. I can't wait to experience no knock back. These are the Delaney adapters. I have C7 X Tracker hubs in the mail, just need to figure out which ARP studs to press into them. I want the kind that aren't threaded all the way to the end.
Nice! Welcome to the world of not replacing hubs every season or wondering if you're gonna lose a wheel on track!
ABS deleted per the rules. I didn't realize the C7 hubs didn't have reluctors so clearly a no go upgrade for my C5Z. I can't wait to experience these hubs on the track. After this, I still need to add the Stoptech 4 pots that I do have and the 2 piece rotors that I don't have ($,$$$). In the meantime I think I may need to use Bob's press to get the ARP studs into the Corvette hubs.
Just a heads up, ARP makes 1/2in studs to swap into late model GM hubs that have the bull-nose thread starter. Part number 100-773. They don’t make any M12 late mode GM studs that have the bull nose, but the 1/2 ones are a direct replacement.
Just a heads up, ARP makes 1/2in studs to swap into late model GM hubs that have the bull-nose thread starter. Part number 100-773. They don’t make any M12 late mode GM studs that have the bull nose, but the 1/2 ones are a direct replacement.
That part number isn't coming up, did you mean 100-7703?
Oohwee, that there is a winter money project at $65 per corner! That is exactly what I want though so it will happen. For now I'll recycle the existing ARP studs without the thread starter nose that I want as I'll bleed to make these damned ducts. First pic I captured of the Camaro vs C7 hub.
This is definitely the end all solution for the hubs.
For anyone who wants ABS, the SKF-Xtracker hub (for C5/C6 sorry I forget the exact difference if there really is one) is the one you want to go with. Been AX'ing on mine for ~5 years now and no play at all.
For anyone who wants ABS, the SKF-Xtracker hub (for C5/C6 sorry I forget the exact difference if there really is one) is the one you want to go with. Been AX'ing on mine for ~5 years now and no play at all.
Another thing to note is that Sam Strano's adapters don't play with the C7 hubs, but they're cheaper than the adapters that I got. The C6 ZR1 hubs are about $370/ea and are just as beefy as these C7 hubs. I'd need the C6 pieces to upgrade my C5.
for C5/C6 sorry I forget the exact difference if there really is one
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
The C6 ZR1 hubs are about $370/ea and are just as beefy as these C7 hubs. I'd need the C6 pieces to upgrade my C5.
The hubs that work with 4th gen abs is c5/early c6. They changed the reluctor count around 09 so it doesn't work which I think is around the time the ZR1 came out so probably a no-go.
