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I talked to OS Giken about making them. Minimum order of two at $2500 each, and you need to send them a complete rear axle assembly. They will ship that to Japan, and you might see a diff at some point.
Please PM me any email traffic you have, a guy I race with is likely inclined to do such a thing.
It was all through Facebook messenger. I think Jason at Unbalanced Engineering was emailing them and may have more details as he was leading the push. Jonathon Lugod is the guy at OSG that you want to talk to. Unfortunately I only have his personal contact info and I know he likes to keep work and play separate, so it's probably just easiest to contact the US office directly and ask for him.
No ****?! Small world. My car was the one Jason used to develop the CMC legal Bilstein shocks, he's an email away. I'll hit up OS National too though and drop dude's name. If this goes, do you want in for 1 diff?
I bought an old still-working T2R from Madarash this year. With the way things are going with the new cars getting dropped in to ESP I will basically be forced into running CP sooner than later I think. If that's the case I need to be budgeting for a 8.8 or a 9.
So right now, I'm not in the market. Nationals is in two weeks and I'll have a better idea of where things stand then.
Haven't checked in in a while. The beer catch can worked great at the last event so I think I'm onto something. Motor went through less than a half of a quart and it was hotter than my ***** out (I know this, because this topic came up at work so I measured mine with a laser temp gauge). Sounds like my shifting issues may be due to a bent fork or wasted fork pads. The plan for a while has been to rebuild the trans over the winter and add billet keys, bronze fork pads, and a steel 3-4 fork. Hopefully that gets me back to where I need to be. That and I'll address cooling by upgrading the radiator and adding an air to water oil cooler. I'm sick of running the thing 230+ with oil well north of 300 and wondering if I'll be swapping motors between events. And breaking in. And re-dyno-ing. No real performance mods planned, just crossing my fingers I don't miss 3rd a million times again at HPR in 2 weeks which is where I've had the most trouble all year. I only missed it once at PMP last month, but there's only 1 downshift to 2nd there. When I watch my April video there from last year, I was slamming 3rd mid corner very aggressively with zero issues. When you watch this year's videos, it doesn't sound that slow until you compare it to last year. From behind the wheel, it feels like I take an eternity to grab a gear and I just can't stand it. Carbon syncros should be my saving grace.
Seems like it should pick up a ton of time with quicker shifting.
I am officially out of the OS Giken game for the 10 bolt. Taking the plunge on CP after this years results. The interior was mostly gutted the morning after I got back from Nats.
Well that's too bad (for me), the OS will be a focus this winter. I'm also thinking I'll go to a 3.42 this winter so I can avoid the short lived upshift to 5th I seem to get at the local tracks. An LT1 car just won nats and I own a couple lap records, so it won't kill me to live with this motor a couple more years.
I finally got ahold of ICP. I called Autotech as well. They both advised the c clips made things a great deal more difficult. And expensive. ICP will make one off diffs and for no more than OS wanted. I also learned that c clip elimination isn't really rocket science and is not only legal in my class, but also encouraged. Good news there. So now I'm on the hunt for a local shop who can jig this all up for me. Another plus is that it eliminates all the knock back. Between this and the Corvette hubs I have yet to buy the car should lose the long pedal after turning in both directions.
I went to his place and had a chat. He certainly is a character. Having him weld the bearing retainers on sounded like a non issue. Who wants to donate $2500 to the cause for this diff now?
Got my trans apart last night. These things are surpringly easy to work on.
I need a press to get the main shaft apart. Bob? 😁
Here's an old/new 4th gear syncro.
This is kind of a let down. I was expecting brass syncros and a massive improvement in shift quality.
Here I did a crappy job of trying to capture the wear on these tips of the input shaft.
The surface where the pilot bearing rides is a little mucked up too. I intend to replace this and whatever else I find messed up once I crack the main shaft apart. 5/6/R looked good, but the plastic fork pads are hammered. I really hope that's what was messing up my 2-3 shifts. I snagged new carbon syncros and hubs, billet keys, and bronze fork pads for this thing along with a steel 3-4 fork.
I dunno, once the trans is here you only have to horse with 1st, 2nd, and 3rd on the main shaft as far as a rebuild goes. The true test comes when I get it all back in the car the first time and get to figure out what I fucked up. Ain't no way but the hard way.
After texting with someone who's done a few of these, I got the mainshaft apart last night.
Now to decide if the gears are good enough. They seemed like it. Is it the end of the world if the tip shows slight wear? The input shaft had the worst teeth of all. Unless you count the hubs, those were definitely trashed. I can't believe it shifted as well as it did. It seems to me the aluminum hubs must be the fusible link inside these things.
So I decided the gears are good enough, but I hit a couple other snags. I am replacing the input shaft, and that'll be here on Saturday. Next I got tanked the case and got all the SAE40W oil and dirt off of it.
Came out nice. Once it was clean, I got to looking more closely at the guide plate.
I see rounded edges on either side of the 3rd gear gate. I decided I should peep the other mating surface.
This is the leading edge when the shifter is going into 3rd. This really looks like the most logical reason for my transmission ending up in no man's land when ripping off multiple 2-3 shifts. It didn't grind, it just would hang up on either side of 3rd if you didn't push the shifter up into the perfect location. It was especially bad when I'd shift mid corner and my arm was contending with the g forces. My last transmission always found its way into 3rd gear and never did this. My last transmission was also a low mileage unit that had been rebuilt before I got the car and this one had 150k on it before it went racing. I damn sure hope I'm right and I can slam some gears at my pace and not at the transmission's pace once this goes back in.
Well if that ain't a helluva clue I dunno what is. Good catch and it should really even up your shifting. Going back earlier in your thread your talking about these super fancy one off diffs, I'm a straight line guy, what is so special about these for the auto cross guys?
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