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Progress on my CMC car

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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 06:59 PM
  #141  
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You could do a GTO box too.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
The M29 stuff isn't able to be LS converted.
Not true. I am running a 100% stock M29 behind my LS1. All of the conversion parts can be handled outside the transmission case.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 12:14 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by landstuhltaylor
Not true. I am running a 100% stock M29 behind my LS1. All of the conversion parts can be handled outside the transmission case.
I remember you mentioning that before. What all did you use for that?
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 09:40 PM
  #144  
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So I'm having a bit of a struggle here with this factory dash, in particular the tach wiring. Per my googling, 93 was the only year that used a tach filter but also 93-96 all used the same cluster according to how they're listed on eBay. I posted up in the LT1 section and got zero replies. I may try my luck on the Corvette forum.
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 06:41 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
So I'm having a bit of a struggle here with this factory dash, in particular the tach wiring. Per my googling, 93 was the only year that used a tach filter but also 93-96 all used the same cluster according to how they're listed on eBay. I posted up in the LT1 section and got zero replies. I may try my luck on the Corvette forum.
What are your issues with the tach? I've got all my notes here at work I believe, also have alldata so digging through wiring diagrams is no biggie.
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 08:53 AM
  #146  
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check shbox as well for wiring. Ditto on what tach issue you are having? What year is your car. Also - I have a stash of old lt1 parts i can send your way (free) once I dig them up. Let me know.
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 11:43 AM
  #147  
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My only issue is whether or not I need the tach filter for this thing. my 1993 FSM schematic shows a tach filter inline with the tach signal. I just checked LT1swap.com and the 94 schematic shows the PCM feeding the tach, so I suspect I do in fact need a tach filter for my 93 with the older style ECM now. Merim if you happen to have a 93 tach filter that would be a huge help. I know some of the 3rd gens used tach filters as well, but no idea if I could use one of those?
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 12:06 PM
  #148  
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I guess the 93's are special, probably read the same things you did doing some googling. The 93's fed the tach directly from the coil, I would bet you could get a Generic Filter like this from speedway and splice it into your painless harness. Do you have an ignition box or is that all factory on your car?

There's an LT1 at my local pick n pull but it's a 95.

Last edited by biketopia; Mar 9, 2020 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2020 | 09:43 AM
  #149  
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All stock ignition on my car. Going back through the decades on the Corvette forum, it looks like GM kept going back and forth on what cars got filters and what ones didn't. I think I remember seeing a filter on my Crown Victoria's harness, I think I'd spliced a 1990 Lincoln Town Car harness onto the 92 Crown Vic. Not sure why a car with no tach would get a filter, but it looked just like the GM ones I've seen on the Googs.
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Old Mar 10, 2020 | 04:14 PM
  #150  
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Weird, maybe even though they had no tach gauge the ECM would still need a clean RPM signal. That speedway filter I linked looked an awful lot like the ones I saw googling as well. No idea what kind of black magic happens in there, but I guess unless you're going to change it up to something way more custom kinda like I made then I'd think a 10 dollar part would probably get you set up. Could possibly leave a little pigtail pre filter and temp hook up the autometer and compare the two as well.
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 02:22 PM
  #151  
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I'm thinking of putting a male/female spade connector inline in an easy to reach spot so I can add/delete/replace a filter as needed.
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Old Mar 20, 2020 | 11:39 AM
  #152  
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So the dually decided to pump its oil pan dry and I tore into it last Saturday to see what the deal was. I suspected rear main based on someone else's account and it turned out being the case.



That's how I found the seal. Saved me the trouble of dropping the diff to drop the oil pan to pull the rear main cap to remove the old seal.



And if you look closely, you can see it's been walking itself off for a while now. Gonna beef up the crankcase ventilation to prevent a reoccurence.

Since I'm in this far, I'm knocking out the rest of the pre-season maintenance as well. I've got more time to do this stuff with the new covid19 work schedule. Once this mess is wrapped up, I can finally get back to the Camaro. I wasn't really liking the idea of not having the camper at the track this year, or in general, so decided to jump on this. If 1 truck goes down I can survive, but they both went down to an extent recently and that's no good so had to shift my focus back to them for the time being. This addresses some things that have always bugged me about this truck so it'll be nice to have it all buttoned back up again. I've blown a ton of muck off the trans, tcase, and the exhaust is getting cleaned up as well. Manifolds are getting blasted today, I can't stand the rusty dirty look on an otherwise VERY clean 1997.
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 09:51 PM
  #153  
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I've decided to just bail on my GMT400 if I can. It's not clean enough to bother saving and I'd rather just scoop of a cheap 3.5 F150 from the leftover 2019 stock. Not anticipating doing much of anything this year with my stuff now that this mess is going on, so I still haven't even bothered touching it much. Almost got the rest of the dash insulation out today though. Curious to see what it weighs before I have to start moving ballast.

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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 09:57 PM
  #154  
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That's too bad about the truck, though they are old they're pretty cheap to keep alive. Out here they don't rot away so you don't end up down that rabbit hole. Bringing the truck home tomorrow FINALLY so once I shampoo it's interior I'll jump back on the Camaro here. Once the dash is all buttoned up I'm going to get on the oil cooler and do something a bit more. . . fabricated with the catch can.
​​​​​
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 09:38 PM
  #155  
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Well I think between all this **** I should be able to fix whatever's wrong with the left rear brake being bent and crooked looking and decimating pads all these years.




I figured the caliper and mount I already replaced was it, so I'm starting with the bracket that bolts to the axle tube and going from there.
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 05:02 PM
  #156  
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From: go get your shine box tommy
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Today I went after some camber out back. I started by levelling the jackstands.




Next came the torch.




This single heat and cool cycle got me from .1 positive to 0 camber. I did this a few more times and got .2 negative. The other side was at .5 and I worried adding more to the left side might add some to the right? I wish I knew more about this.
So you just ran the torch around to get red and let it cool a few times checking camber each time or did you put weight on the center section?
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 05:39 PM
  #157  
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No weight, it just over shrinks when it cools. You can quench it too.
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 06:46 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
No weight, it just over shrinks when it cools. You can quench it too.
I thought quenching made the metal brittle (for welds anyways, figured it's similar with just heating red hot).

I was thinking about welding the tubes to the center hoping it would kill two birds one stone if I just set it the right way on stands.
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 06:52 PM
  #159  
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It does make it more brittle, but I was told by someone who straightens axles for a living he's never had one come back.
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
It does make it more brittle, but I was told by someone who straightens axles for a living he's never had one come back.
Did you heat the same spot over and over or move over a little each time? What measurements did you end up with?

Last edited by mikedamageinc; Apr 4, 2020 at 07:09 PM.
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