Best brakes for immediate stops from 150/160mph to 60mph...
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I just purchased some Baer Eradispeed rotors a few weeks ago. I say that I pull these kinds of stops about 10 -15 times a month. They stop great but I am afraid these rotors will not last very long with these kinds of stops. Any suggested upgrade systems? Should I get front and back systems or just front?
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IMO best systems out there are:
1. Lou Gigliotti's systems (www.lgmotorsports.com), either the Brembo setup, or new Wilwood 6-piston.
2. Dave Dilusi's system (www.dilusimotorsports.com?)
3. Baer/Alcon system from DRM (www.dougrippie.com)
4. Movit's (www.movit.com)Porsche/Brembo 'Big Red' system from The Ultimate Garage (www.ultimategarage.com)
Think LG's system uses Brembo 13x1.25 cross-drilled rotors. Suspect the holes are cast, but not sure.
Don't know whose rotors DRM uses, but their Wilwood systems use Coleman rotors and more recently Wilwood's.
Mov'it system uses 12.7x1.25 Porsche rotors with hols cast (not drilled) during manufacture. Swept area is 300 sq inches on fronts, pad size is approx 12 sq in.
Don't know areas of others.
IMO cryo treating helps any of these rotors, both in longevity and impunity from warping. Two cryo sources are Performance Cryogenics (GA) (www.percryo.com) & Diversified Cryogenics (MN) (www.frozenrotors.com)
1. Lou Gigliotti's systems (www.lgmotorsports.com), either the Brembo setup, or new Wilwood 6-piston.
2. Dave Dilusi's system (www.dilusimotorsports.com?)
3. Baer/Alcon system from DRM (www.dougrippie.com)
4. Movit's (www.movit.com)Porsche/Brembo 'Big Red' system from The Ultimate Garage (www.ultimategarage.com)
Think LG's system uses Brembo 13x1.25 cross-drilled rotors. Suspect the holes are cast, but not sure.
Don't know whose rotors DRM uses, but their Wilwood systems use Coleman rotors and more recently Wilwood's.
Mov'it system uses 12.7x1.25 Porsche rotors with hols cast (not drilled) during manufacture. Swept area is 300 sq inches on fronts, pad size is approx 12 sq in.
Don't know areas of others.
IMO cryo treating helps any of these rotors, both in longevity and impunity from warping. Two cryo sources are Performance Cryogenics (GA) (www.percryo.com) & Diversified Cryogenics (MN) (www.frozenrotors.com)
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[quote]Originally posted by SweetSavannah:
<strong>
IMO cryo treating helps any of these rotors, both in longevity and impunity from warping. Two cryo sources are Performance Cryogenics (GA) (www.percryo.com) & Diversified Cryogenics (MN) (www.frozenrotors.com)
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Polarized schools of thought here. What's your justification?
Also, what's the cost and turn-around time?
<strong>
IMO cryo treating helps any of these rotors, both in longevity and impunity from warping. Two cryo sources are Performance Cryogenics (GA) (www.percryo.com) & Diversified Cryogenics (MN) (www.frozenrotors.com)
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Polarized schools of thought here. What's your justification?
Also, what's the cost and turn-around time?
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Cryo treating when it's done properly takes the stress out of the material and makes it stronger. Usually this will help items that wear.
For effective Cryo treatment the temp must be slowly dropped like 1 degree every 2 minutes from room temp to close to absolute zero. Then the temp must slowly be raised back like 1 degree every 2 minutes. Ideally, the temp will be raise well above room temp, then cycled back down. The gradual changes avoid thermal shock to the material.
Cryo treatment got a bad rap when some companies that didn't know what they were doing just tossed things like connecting rods in the freezer and poured on the liquid nitrogen. The fast uncontrolled cooling cause stress in the material instead of releasing it. This created weaker materials that broke more often.
Coldfire has a pretty decent website and their prices are quite reasonable, more so than many.
Might want to ask about treating the pads as well
[ November 16, 2001: Message edited by: 99 Black Bird T/A ]</p>
For effective Cryo treatment the temp must be slowly dropped like 1 degree every 2 minutes from room temp to close to absolute zero. Then the temp must slowly be raised back like 1 degree every 2 minutes. Ideally, the temp will be raise well above room temp, then cycled back down. The gradual changes avoid thermal shock to the material.
Cryo treatment got a bad rap when some companies that didn't know what they were doing just tossed things like connecting rods in the freezer and poured on the liquid nitrogen. The fast uncontrolled cooling cause stress in the material instead of releasing it. This created weaker materials that broke more often.
Coldfire has a pretty decent website and their prices are quite reasonable, more so than many.
Might want to ask about treating the pads as well
[ November 16, 2001: Message edited by: 99 Black Bird T/A ]</p>
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Mitch, not sure which part is 'polarized'? Tell me more.
What I understand cryoing (is that a word?) does is alter the internal molecular structure in such a way that it inhibits the formation of cracks because the molecules in the metal become less lined up which doesn't allow the temperature stresses to create straight line fissures. How it inhibits warping, I'm not sure.
My real world experience is that the rotors I've treated seem to last at least double the life of the ones I haven't treated, although I have no way of controlling whether the conditions and miles driven were truly equivalent. I do know that in all cases, a goodly proportion of the miles were on-track miles. I'd post a picture of one of my rotors w/ 15k miles, if someone could tell me how you add a picture to your reply.
As to cost and turnaround, about $30-$35 per rotor and 7-10 calendar days including shipment.
I think the best way to convince yourself is try the process on a set and see what happens. At most you'll have wasted $60-$70 and I can assure you that wouldn't rise anywhere near the top of my "most useless mod" list.
What I understand cryoing (is that a word?) does is alter the internal molecular structure in such a way that it inhibits the formation of cracks because the molecules in the metal become less lined up which doesn't allow the temperature stresses to create straight line fissures. How it inhibits warping, I'm not sure.
My real world experience is that the rotors I've treated seem to last at least double the life of the ones I haven't treated, although I have no way of controlling whether the conditions and miles driven were truly equivalent. I do know that in all cases, a goodly proportion of the miles were on-track miles. I'd post a picture of one of my rotors w/ 15k miles, if someone could tell me how you add a picture to your reply.
As to cost and turnaround, about $30-$35 per rotor and 7-10 calendar days including shipment.
I think the best way to convince yourself is try the process on a set and see what happens. At most you'll have wasted $60-$70 and I can assure you that wouldn't rise anywhere near the top of my "most useless mod" list.
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[quote]Originally posted by SweetSavannah:
<strong>
Mitch, not sure which part is 'polarized'? Tell me more.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
By polarized, I meant opinions are either for it or against it ...
Where to get this done and what rotors are you running? Is your brake setup aftermarket?
<strong>
Mitch, not sure which part is 'polarized'? Tell me more.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
By polarized, I meant opinions are either for it or against it ...
Where to get this done and what rotors are you running? Is your brake setup aftermarket?
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Mitch -
I have my rotors cryo'ed at Performance Cryogenics in Cleveland, GA. Owner is Lee Moore. Website is www.percryo.com. Phone:706 219 3551.
I have the Porsche/Brembo setup from Mov'it. It's the best mod I've put on the car. All the trouble I had with brakes evaporated when I installed this system. Steve D'Geralamo is the guy to talk to at the Ultimate Garage which is in Emerson, NJ.
I'll e-mail you a picture of the brakes new and after 15,000 miles, the One Lap of America and 15 open track days.
I have my rotors cryo'ed at Performance Cryogenics in Cleveland, GA. Owner is Lee Moore. Website is www.percryo.com. Phone:706 219 3551.
I have the Porsche/Brembo setup from Mov'it. It's the best mod I've put on the car. All the trouble I had with brakes evaporated when I installed this system. Steve D'Geralamo is the guy to talk to at the Ultimate Garage which is in Emerson, NJ.
I'll e-mail you a picture of the brakes new and after 15,000 miles, the One Lap of America and 15 open track days.
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I have the Dilusi's & they work just fine at speed.
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: DARTH VETTER ]
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: DARTH VETTER ]</p>
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: DARTH VETTER ]
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: DARTH VETTER ]</p>
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I am another Movit convert. I had tried a multitude of bandades on the stock system ,which worked for awhile , that is until my skill level at driving increased and then it was back to the bandades again. Once I had the fronts installed my problems went away .
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Thanks for the Cryo place in Cleveland Ga. it's right under my nose. Didn't even know it was there! <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />
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The Movit site is actually: www.movit.de <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> Those things look really nice!