ActionJack

I have decided to start modding the WS6 and decided for a road racing setup over a drag strip set up. This is also my daily driver.

I am planning sub frame connectors and shift kit w/trans cooler this next week. I need to know if I should stick with a stock torque converter or go with a 2400 or 2800 stall???

I have read before to stick with stock but wanted to know if a 2400 or 2800 would cause me problems road racing, such as accelerating out of a turn?

The suspension is coming too... I have to decide if I should do exhaust or suspension (Koni SLA in front and Bilstein in rear) first?

I am looking for any and all opinions on this...

ActionJack

I am gonna stick with stock TC. After speaking to a buddy that does some road racing with his Vette I decided stock is best.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Curious...open road racing or track type?

As for headers vs suspension, I think I would do suspension first (both eventually). That way the extra HP from headers won't ever-power your suspension setup. Thinking you would build more speed in the straights & come into the corners too hot.

ActionJack

Flat track style. I am shooting for SCCA by 2006 and next year I will be experimenting at Gingerman at their 1.8 mile round/twisty track.

I am gonna wait for the shocks and springs and relocation bracket install for the summer. I was thinking of doing the exhaust from headers back...

Or wait.

I am scheduled for Thursday to have the subframes welded on and to have my shift kit and trans cooler installed. I was also thing of a different radiator to keep the engine running cooler with a 160 degree thermostat and programming.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Absolutely no disrespect intended ...

I have been open tracking for 4 years and have witnessed several drivers show up at venues with HP and handling to burn. The problem is, the driver hasn't the experience to control THEMSELVES much less the car.

They follow too close, cook their brakes, boil the tires and usually have several offs during a weekend. And everytime they spin, they could very easily take someone else out with them.

No disrespect intended, but you scare me ...

I read all kinds of plans on power and handling ... never once did you mention brakes, either fluid or pad compound. That is hint #1.

You are asking about torque converters for road course duty. That is hint #2

You "decided for a road racing setup over a drag strip set up" is hint #3

You asked for opinions ...

Replace the brake pads with a good compound that will take heat, change the brake fluid that won't boil, get a performance oriented alignment and most importantly, get some seat time ... a LOT of seat time.

After several days of track time, then begin looking the characteristics of your car and figure out what the car is doing. Then address those problems individually. Adding a bunch of parts all at one time will not solve anything.

There is no cookie-cutter recipe for "good handling".

Attending an open track day in a daily driver means you have no freaking shot at fast time of the day. Ain't gonna happen. So, hit the course, have fun and learn to drive ...

ActionJack

Thanks for the input...

I have already upgraded the brakes to some degree (changing the brake fluid and lines sound like a good start). I have Hawke pads which do much better than others I have had. I am currently using better rotors than stock since previous ones warped and these have held strong.

I have also had some experience with different tires and the Pirellis (PZero)are very nice at letting me know when the car is at it's limits and they have great traction so far with cornering and braking and acceleration (the hawke pads help greatly with braking as well). The car has some flex and the rear needs to be more stable when cornering, IMO (maybe wider tires and better suspension as well as subframe connectors).

I also realise I will need track time before ever getting out there with others. At Gingerman in Michigan they offer an open track that will allow me time to traverse the track and build confidence and experience. I realise this is not the same as street driving and will allow me to push the car harder. That is why I have decided to set up the car initially for better track handling on a flat track. Once I have some experience behind the wheel at the track I hope to learn where my car needs improvement (braking, acceleration, cornering, or all three).

I should not scare you since I have no plans to jump in a competition with no experience and without tuning my ride. I am 37 years old (not some young buck out to prove himself) with many hours behind a wheel. I also realise I lack flat track experience. Besides, it is better that I push my car at the track instead of the street. That is part of the problem with our country, we have few or no options for racing in our rides unless you are pro or aspiring for pro, the amateurs and enthusiasts have few or no places to go except the sreet and hence we have kids racing on the street with little experience and with many other innocent drivers and drivers with very little ability.

I hope others that are looking to get off the street and do it safe and legal find a way. Thanks for the hints and feedback, I truly appreciate it and any comments or advise.

Jaymz

Jack... I have another hint that I'll send your way.

Don't start open tracking your car without some instruction. I would do a NASA, PCA, BMW, ETC.... school before you decide to try it on your own. There is alot to learn when you first start doing track driving. Start with a HPDE1 or a Green group and you will be ok on the track with others. These groups have restricted passing on the track so you do not have to worry about going into a corner 2 wide with another beginner.

Also.... Don't worry about the car mods except for brakes. Get some good pads (The hawks you have will be ok to start with). Flush the brake fluid out and get something that has a higher wet & dry boiling point. I use Castrol SRF but I am racing not doing HPDE. For you I would get some Motul 600 or something similar.

I would learn how to drive on street tires before you switch to track tires.

Don't do a thing to the motor besides change the oil after every event. More HP will be more of a hinderence than it helps right now.

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

First things first:
You have no idea what you're getting into, in both good and bad ways
I got into open tracking 2 yrs ago, since then I've gone through 2 cars and many thousands of dollars...but I don't miss a single dollar I spent on any of it!
It is the most fun you can have with your pants on, by far.

As far as mods go, take it easy on yourself, your car, and your budget. All you need for starters is a front sway, shocks, tires, and good breakpads.

With the f-body you will have to do some reliability mods, in order to survive that first day on the track. Ported LS6 oil pump, trans and power steering coolers, oil catch can all be had for cheap, and they all do their job well. Also, all kinds of 'wearables' like clutch, rotors, fluids must be replaced with 'better' stuff, as need arrives (and it does very quickly)

Do NOT do any power mods, they just make it harder to concentrate on the task at hand, and increase possibility of stuff breaking.

That's what I got out of it so far, I hope it will help you out a bit.

roy

As what was stated above posts, plus a instructor in the car . That way you can find out how well you stink at driving and then learn from him or her.
Simple nuances that irk instructors are one hand driving, radio on , braking in the corner or farting in the car .

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

Oh yea, the instructors can be fantastic (or not, I had one that entered my Supra and asked me if it's rear engine, and quickly followed with 'I don't do imports') and tell you the smallest little tricks that can be very useful. My favorite tip so far is to keep your left foot as much as possible on the 'dead' pedal, not over clutch, or curl up your leg. The result? You stop sliding around in your seat! Yup, people who do it for 10+yrs know what they're talking about, so listen up

ActionJack

I cannot promise no farting but the rest I am pretty confident about.

I am checking racingschools dot com and hope to have some instruction at Gingerman and/or Michigan Speedway.

ActionJack

I am going at it with an A4 even if it hurts the times.

This will hopefully turn out to be a hobby that I can safely enjoy into my 60s.

SSactionLs1

I am in the same boattt only have pretty much every bolton suspension part, gears, racing clutch, and more than stock power.. WONT make this any easier. I think if you go out and just enjoy your seat time while getting some experience then you will be fine. its you against the track, no you against the other cars. IMO

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

I open tracked with my 6sp supra and A4 formula, and the automatic is easier to learn on. No need to worry about misshifts, revmatching, etc, you just concentrate what you lose the most time on: the line, and when to get on the gas/brake.

Yea, people look at you funny, but so what.
The most important part is to have fun, and that you can do with minimal 'technicality' of the car. I built up my car to the point where it's way more of a car than I am a driver. Sad but true. The only good part is that it's easy, and fun, and safe to actually improve now.

Don't get caught up in modding, that eats up entirely too much time and money. Tires, shocks, pads, aligment, and go drive your ***** off.

It's hard not to have fun doing this, unless you are really overdriving it out of the gate and spin multiple times every time you go, and everyone's yelling at you...not that I would know..I mean I heard...

ActionJack

The feedback has been helpful and I feel better about taking the car to Gingerman mostly stock.

I am planning an advanced driving course or what ever www.racingschools.com has in my area to help with road racing. Then with the track time at Gingerman I hope to get the experience driving I need to get out on the track with others by 2006 and to get my suspension tuned the way I want.

I am currently considering the G2 springs for next summer.

I also feel better about having the A4 for now...

Racehead

I agree with every piece of advice here and would like add a little bit here that helped me more than I can convey

1) trying to drive fast makes you sloppy, technically lacking, and slows down your learning curve

2) trying to drive smoothly, and nailing the racing line, and trying to be technically good will make you fast

And oh yeah, forget about trailbraking until you've got the other things pretty much down. Don't ask how I know.