SouthFL.02.SS

Haven't lapped in a street car on any of these. Only experience has been in open wheel Skip Barber cars (which are tons lighter and stop on a dime). I drove at Sebring and Daytona (24 hour course) and both tracks allowed max speed (130mph) in those cars.
So, figure Sebring will see at least 150mph I guess on the back straight (brake upgrade anyone? ).
I haven't driven Homestead or Moroso yet.
Chinmotorsports (arrive and drive HPDE and lapping) is the venue I'll be using for track days. They don't go to Daytona, but visit all the other tracks I've listed.

The instructors I had at Sebring practically ran away from me when I aasked them to take a few laps in my ol' SS (fully modded rear suspension and some brake upgrades- yet 460 rwhp to haul down), yet they hopped into another guy's Lotus Elise at the first request . At least they threw me thumbs ups when I'd fire up the car to leave with open cutouts a blaring.

Either way, keep the suggestions coming. Remember, this car won't see competitive racing. It will also see street cruises and the like, yet it must keep me on course and brake at the track with about 420ish rwhp. Car won't be trailered either.

Also, any roll bar/cage recommendations? Seats?

Teutonic Speedracer

iTrader: (20)

It's a tough decision. I see the benefits of the FRC being that it starts a lot lighter than the F-body, has better aero, and better suspension from the factory. I see its downfalls being initial price and cost of upgrades. Other than engine parts, it seems that all Y-body parts cost about double that of F-body parts. Ever see a $350 catback for a Vette? They are like $800!

I enjoy being it my Mullletmaro and passing people in their C5's!....it's just more fun. I primarily run with the BMW club and I get countless people coming up to me in M3's that are like I didn't think Camaros could handle like that.

Another thing with the F-body is that it is easy to work on (maintenance wise). We always have a hell of time jacking up or getting my buddy's C5 on the lift, and his clutch swap requires taking out the rear suspension, rear-end, tranny, and torque tube.

I also agree that a Z06 is a waste of money as most of the "upgraded" parts are going to end up getting replaced anyway. Kinda like how an SS/WS6 comes with "upgrades" that will definitely get replaced if you get serious (shocks, swaybars, springs, etc.).

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

It varies from track to track ...

5500rpm in 4th gear at Motorsports Ranch and 5000rpm in 5th gear at TWS are the extremes ...

So ~120 to 140 ...

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I totally agree. When I was looking for FRC's I saw prices as low as 18k. Also you guys forget how cheap the Z06 suspension cost. You can have an FRC handle just as well as a Z06 with the same suspension and tires or you can upgrade to the BMR sway bars or Hotchkis sway bars and have your camber adjusted and do even better. As for horsepower between a Z06 and a FRC.. You are a cam swap away from stock Z06 horsepower or more. Now that I think about it.. You can have a 99 or 00 FRC out perform a stock 01-04 Z06 for the price of a Z06. IMO there is a clear choice here. I use to own a 01 F-body and I had most of what Sam Strano sells for suspension parts. Now dont get me wrong. My F-body handled like a dream and I would have run it against any stock C5 on a road course, but my FRC with the upgraded BMR sway bars feels even better. Even with my iron block in the car..

SSpeedracer

iTrader: (8)

FRC with tires and brake pads. Be done with it and spend time driving it instead of working on it.

I hit the limit in my SS 'cause of weight. Anything I do now starts making the car less "streetable" and has diminishing return on investment. Keep in mind I drive a 'vert so weight is more of an issue.

SouthFL.02.SS

Can't leave bolt-ons and internals stock. Not an option.

DavidNJ

My gut says the Y-body frame and suspension will just be easier to work on. And it is still in production. And rear camber is adjustable (QC rears are available with cambered ends, and Winters even makes bolt-on ends so you can adjust the camber).

Just to add another option: Monaro (ok, GTO) anyone? Lots os performance parts, although you may have to bring some in from down under. I believe it is supposed to be a pretty good chassis.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Only thing with the GTO is its a fairly new car and GTO specific parts will be more expensive.

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Nice to see someone driving the C4 LT4 man. Great cars,....truly underated. I wish I could have one...with my FRC.

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

Don't go with a Z06, get a FRC same chassis, weight, and stiffness. The Corvette boards have had debates on the M12. I ran a M12 and the factory M6 in my FRC and there is a nice size gap in 3rd with the M12. If you like a M12 they can be found for ~$1g. I would stick with the M6 if you're not drag racing. You can find higher milage FRCs for under 20k in the autotrader.

Jacking a C5 is not hard if you have some frame savers from A and A. Overall I think a C5 is easier to work on than a f-body, plugs changes are a snap. A clutch swap does involve bulky parts but really is not as big of a pain as you would think. The car comes apart like legos. Budget about 6 hours for a clutch on your back if you have a friend and its your first time. If you're good it can be done in 4 hours and a local mechanic on a lift does them in 2 hours. When you change the clutch check to see if the couplers are worn inside the tq tube.

Exhaust and Air induction are more for a Corvette but you buy those iteams once. Catbacks are about 700-800 depending on what you want and if you'll wait on a GP or used. I think my roommate picked up his GHL catback new for $560. I'd go with Kooks LTs 1,200 to 1,600 if you want cats.

On a vette you do not need sub frame connectors, stb, control arms, tq arm, panhard rod or big brakes offsetting some of the higher prices on Corvettes. Plenty of the local C5s are running VIR, Sebring, and Road Atlanta on stock brakes using upgraded pads w/ cooling hoses, and stock radiators. I would add some Bilstein shocks and sway bar endlinks from a 02+ c5 before hitting the track in a FRC. The suspension on a C5 is much more forgiving on the curbs too.

One price to consider is how much money are you out if you total the car on the track. I am considering a RX7 or 240SX with a LS1 swap due to replacement cost.

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

Reread the original message:

For the rollbar in a C5: http://www.kirkracing.com/

Seats a local had a local interior shop add plastic inserts to the original seat for the shoulder harness on the 5 point.

SouthFL.02.SS

Thanks for the links and for the in depth info.

Concerns with totalling the car are always there, and favor a budget F-body project IMO.

As for C5 exhaust, I was thinking of using QTP LT's with the QTP ORX with dual elect. cutouts before the stock catback.
For an F-bod, either QTP HVMC LT's (they just came down in cost BIG TIME -less than 800 bucks-), or Edelbrock Stepped LT's with slip on merge venturi coned collectors.

Either way (F-bod or C5), I'm thinking of using using a GMPP ASA cam with either TEA Stage 1 5.7's (great mid lift numbers) or Livernois CNC LS6's.

I've been tempted to take the Saabaru (sig pic) for a few laps at a lapping day, but I don't want to put any money into tires and brakes. Must save money for lsx project.

DavidNJ

Just as an aside, if you want a track only car a NEW rolling chassis for a road racing setup late model stock car is less than $15k. Not only do you get all the good parts, plus suspension adjustable for mounting points (change your geometry on the fly), it is a lot safer and easier and less expensive to repair after a wreck.

You may even be able to find a used perimeter frame car (needed for road racing) for under $10k, or around $15k ready to run.

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Ebay motors has a "racecar" section.

Check it out.

LT-4Play

iTrader: (1)

Nice to see someone driving the C4 LT4 man. Great cars,....truly underated. I wish I could have one...with my FRC

I definatly suprise people at the track with this thing. I've had Z06 drivers come by and wonder what's all been done to it, but I still want a FRC or Z06. They are SOOOOOOOOO much easier to work on, find parts for, and drive for that mater. The aftermarket for my car is like But there are TONS of stuff for C5's. As a driver that is just getting into HPDE's I really wish I would have waited and bought a C5 they are well thought out and easy to work on, my biggest gripe is the brakes I always get vibration under hard braking (over 1.0g under full braking), when I ride along with my buddies that have Z06's it feels like I'm in a Caddilac just crusing around the track. The C5 just feels like its well planted and ready for you. My C4 takes a little more to wrestle it around the track.

When you have a car as smooth as a C5 it is easy to concentrate on the task at hand, going faster. The heads-up display is great for knowing when you are doing just that, you may feel faster but that tells you when you are going faster. I don't know how a F-body compairs to the C5 FRC but I do know that is the most comfortable I have been @ 140 with a turn 450 feet in front of me. Just my $.02

2MCHPWR

iTrader: (10)

i open tracked my '99 Formula for about 4 years. like others have mentioned, it was great surprising many drivers of premium sports cars when i passed them. good feeling. but a lot of that is from driver skill. the F body chassis is great on the track, no doubt, with just a few choice mods. see my website for pics and vids and mods of my firebird on various RR courses. but as i got more into the RR/HPDE stuff, i wanted my car to weigh less. So i sold it and looked for a c5 like you are doing. but then i got the rx7/ls1 bug, and well, 2730 lbs was enough to convince me to go hybrid. but given your two options, i'd get the FRC

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Cool deal. I was raised around vettes, mostly classics. But, once my cousin we're 18ish,..he bought a 96 green, LT4 and his pop, bought the LT4 collectors edition. We did mods to the green one, and to this day, is one of my all time favorite cars. Very underated... We beat alot of first gen LS1's in that car.

I actually was looking to buy one but, my cousin(same one) now has a Z06, and talked me into something LS1 based.

Very happy with my choice, mostly because of parts availability.

peace out.

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

I agree suspension isn't that bad. I bought the suspension for mine using all z06 take off parts except for the new in box 04 shocks (the Nurburing valved 1 yr only version) which included springs, bars, and end link from phoenix racing from their T1 conversions. They advertised on z06vette & cf some. The suspension was ~1,200, 01 Z06 wheels found on CF $800 and a MovIt Brembo big red kit kit with rotors for $1,600 used on CF.

Another thing the heads come off a c5 even with studs very easily and there is no cowl to deal with.

QTPs aren't very common on the C5s Kooks & LGs are normally considered tops and I'd take stainless works next. I don't know much about the ease of install or fit on the QTPs to comment one way or the other. I like the F10 setup and TEA 5.3s, mine was a F11(112)/TEA stg 2 with Kooks. The tq curve was very nice

If you want more track info on the C5 or pics of the Kirk bar or seats I mentioned come on over to http://peachstateposse.com/forum/ There about a half dozen guys or more that go to track events regurlary including Sebring.

SouthFL.02.SS

Thanks again for the info. I'll check out the posse when I'm closer to doing this.

DavidNJ

If you are going to make your own suspension, brake, and engine mods, their is no advantage to a Z06 prior to the C6Z. Just with the Z06 some of those changes are already made, and some things work well out of the box.

The regular 2.66 first gear transmission is probably better for road racing (tighter 1-2 spacing and you don't need standing start capability).