SnakeStomper

iTrader: (8)

I finally got some racing seats, picked up the Corbeau's CR1's from a friend. I've been reading various posts here regarding setups, but they seem to be for drag racing, i.e. 5 or 6 pt cage. Aren't there options for AutoX'ing setups?

I've seen a harness bar before, not sure how well it works. Do crotch bars work w/ the Corbeau seats/brackets? Any help/tips are appreciated

rdeterman

iTrader: (2)

im also curious..

skifast87

ttt me to i wanna know. I have always liked the look of seats and harness and they are flat out more comfey i think.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

I have an LG harness bar, and it works well for auto-x. It does take away the rear seat, but it's well worth it IMO. The shoulder belts are pretty level (which is how they should be). Not sure what to do for the anti-sub belt, however. Mine are just mounted to the front seat mount bolts, but I have a stock seats, so it has to go around the seat (it sucks, but better than nothing).

rushman

If you have to have a full harness, get the lg harness bar, and if you want a sub belt, there are a couple companies that make a sub bar that goes between the front seat bolts.

Now, that said, myself and many others are very happy with using just a racing seat and the lap belt from a harness (plus the normal factory seat belt). I used a harness for 2 years and find that it didn't really do much that the lap belt setup doesn't do with the racing seat, that and I you don't need the harness for safety anyway. I would put the $200 towards something else :-)

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

Who makes a sub bar? I currently have mine bolted to the front seat mount bolts, and it sucks (but better than no sub belt at all).

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

That sub belt will do next to nothing mounted on that location. Most seats do not have provisions for a v style sub belt. Most people just bolt it to the sides and slip the belts through the side holes. When doing this you will be siting on the belts and pulling the clip between the crotch. I'm using the stock seats so I put the bolts just behind and slipped the belt between the upper part and the bottom cushion. If I got fixed back aluminum seat I will have to take the other approach.

You can see here what happens when you submarine in accident, and why the belt bolted in front of the seat will do nothing to prevent submarining.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

For a sub belt, go to Home Depot and buy a length of 1 1/2" x 3/16" strap.

Measure the distance between the 2 forward seat studs and drill 2 holes so that the flat stock slips over those studs.

Measure 1/2 way between the 2 mounting holes and drill a 3rd hole. Buy a grade 8 bolt, washer and nut and secure the sub buckle to the center hole you drilled.

Sandwich the flat stock between the seat mount and floor.

I would paint the flat bar the same color as your carpet so that it blends in really nice.

rushman

Sorry, let me rephrase, I have seen them on a few cars, but they may have been home made.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Rushman ... no offense intended, but if you couldn't tell much differnece between a 5 point and the stock harness, you had something wrong.

With a 5 point, you should be able to totally relax in the seat and be held in place.

rushman

I could tell the difference, but for autocross uses didn't see the need. Im not getting tired and don't notice an lack in feel without the full harness. That and mine was rigged to the rear bucket seat bolt, and by no means safe in anyway, and most likely dangerous even with the factory belt over the top. So, rather then spending 200+ on a bar, I just ditched it and am perfectly happy with just the lap belt. My seat is plenty tight around me (as im not as small as I should be :-) ).

Anyhow, my point is for me, without a really good reason to have a harness, (like rules requiring it), there are alternatives that work well enough and cost a lot less.

BTW, on this topic, is the LG harness bar meant for impact safety? It looks strong, but also seems like it has a lot of leverage on the seat belt bolts since the harnesses connect a good 6 inches above the level of the bolts.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I understand and appreciate your taking my comments in the context that they were intended. Open conversation and constructive criticism is how I learn best. Sometimes folks misunderstand my motives.

There is some increased leverage on those harness bar attachment points. But the load is spread somewhat to 2 points, instead of one. Not having anything other than my thumb and a chin to scratch, I'd have to say ... probably not ... just be conservative.

But I did run an LG harness bar for a couple years and even today have no problem with it.

The concerns many raise about a 5 point and and harness bar in the event of a roll over has some merit. But the driver sits upright in the most protected part of the roof ... beneath the C-Pillar hoop.

I've seen several F-Cars after a rollover. The roof structure is warped and tweaked. The A-pillars are moved and flattened. But the roof was never pancaked.

Having said that, I've probably jinxed every harness bar owner out there ...

rushman

Ah, one other thing I forgot to mention, mine is a t-top car ;-)

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Not much appreciable structure difference between a T-Top car and a hard top car. Just the piece that would connect the A and C pillars.

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

I have the LG bar and 5 pt harness (cause my club requires a 5pt). I would go with the wolferacecraft crotch strap bracket (it clears the seat bracketry better than others), if you do not want to fab your own.
I am happy with how it holds me in (even w stock seat). As far as loosing the back seat, I just install the harness bar b4 the race and take it out after. It takes less than 30 mins. I actually use my backseat, its my daily driver.