tomustang

Hello

We have an 01 T/A, but I'm coming from the mustang world and since my Cobra is almost done with it's suspension I would like the T/A to keep up

What are the effective modifications to make the bird handle better? I know some good bil/koni's and some stiffer springs will be better, but what about the swaybars? the 3-link rear? chassis stiffening? any offset setups for mounting points in control arm locations?


What are some known good aftermarket companys? This isn't like mustangs where everyone knows to head to Griggs or MM, so can someone help me out?

Thanks

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Give sam strano a call, hes a sponsor on here, and people have nothing but good things to say about him

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

The most important part is the driver by far.

As far as the car, Konis, Strano lowering springs, sway bars, and big tires will make a very good package (the car would be faster than most people could drive it). Unlike fox-based Mustangs, 4th gen's don't need a major suspension redesign to handle well. A good set of welded subframe connecters will stiffen up the chassis nicely. All to of this, plus some good brake pads and fluid will make a very competent track car.

But, stock isn't bad. A stock car with Konis that is well driven can go very quick.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

It won't take much ... maybe some fuel in the tank and a battery to start the motor.

I race against Mustangs in he Camaro/Mustang Challenge and I'm just not impressed with Griggs or Max. Their parts are cumbersome and heavy.

When comparing the 4th Gen LS1 car to a Mustang platform, the 4th gen has a couple issues that need addressing.

1st, run at least 1/2 qt overfull on oil. Trust me on this, unless you just like replacing spun rod bearings.

Brakes ... the stock 98+ 4th gen front calipers will spread and taper the pads. A C5 conversion is the best bang for the buck. Long term, replacing the fronts with 4 piston Brembos is a lot cheaper than you might think.

To make the Mustang appear as a small dot in the rear view mirror ...

Weight ... the 4th gen in street trim is a nose heavy, over-weight pig that will push like a crack dealer.

Springs ... stiffer, yes. But nothing off the shelf is enough rate for a car in street trim. LGM and Strano get close, but they still fall short of optimum, IMHO. 700 front and 200 rear will help the car turn-in and rotate.

Definitely shocks ... valved to taste. I had really good luck with casual and street use of Bilstein HDs. If you want to get serious, I recently found a source to get you a set of Penskes cheaper than Konis.

Suspension pickup points need to be rod ends. LGM and UMI make good parts.

Sway bars ... Strano seems to be head and shoulders above the competiton here. I wish I could run his front bar.

Tires ... 11" rims will fit on all for corners. Having 315 rubber on the ground is a great feeling. Got to be able to dial in a lot of front camber, though.

All the above is based upon open track and wheel to wheel competition. A car set up the way I described is currently 1st in regional points, winning 4 of 6 races and taking 3 of 4 poles. we did a lot of testing and a lot research over the winter and walked away with some very good results.

But car feel is a very unique thing. What works for me or for that guiy over there will be different and different still for you.

A502slo

iTrader: (4)

Explain??? I use the stock calipers and some slotted rotors with Hawk pads. I tried to use the HPplus but i needed more, so went with the next level up, and motol brake fluid. Seem to have no problem, but then again im only doing redlinetimeattack events. My biggest problem is keeping cool. Even with 160 thermosat and fan coming on at lower temp, removing ac and adding water wetter i still over heat after 5/6 laps/ So any thought on this??

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

If you look at the stock caliper, the backbone is really pretty thin. As time and heat work on the cast metal caliper it will begin to flex, bowing the caliper ears away from the caliper pistons.

So the outer edges of the pads wear faster than the inner edges.

Many report having no problem with spread and others seem to be snake bit ... like me. Must be my heavy foot.

A C5 caliper is repotedly pressure cast, therefore more dense material and has stiffening ribs running across the back bone. So, it's less prone to spread.

Also, the more agressive pad you use, the less pedal ressure required.

There is always a trade off, eh?

Keeping cool ...

Is your front air deflector in good shape?
How about the rear hood seal (low pressure zone right behind the hood, air rushes in from the back and limits the amount of air passing through the radiator)?
Is there any debris on the front of the radiator or AC coil?
How about between the coils (I pulled a Wal-Mart bag from between my AC condenser and radiator before)?
Have you replaced your hoses lately (aged hose will collapse under water pump suction)?
How old is the radiator cap (new radiator caps are worth their weight in temperature)?

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

mitchntx, you are the man!

I've read and continue to read alot of valueable insight in your posts.

I'd like to extend a true and heart felt thank you for sharing your experience w those new to the f-body road race game!

sandman2100

iTrader: (8)

+10


Good read

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Tom, is this for a track only car?

tomustang

Thanks for all the info guys I was on a terrible work binge and haven't been around alot, but now I have some cash in pocket to actually use

Daily driven, The car will be tracked though. like all my cars, I can't stand weak chassis/ body flex, nose dive so I need more stiffness

for now I'm looking up companys for parts and am having a hard time finding a good manufacturer, I've been searching and finding that the main company's like BMR suck, they don't work right blah blah blah

What is a good company/or just parts to stick with and stay away from?

bmr, umi, hotchkis, g2, global west, strano, slp. any others out there?

2 of the mains things i'm looking at are control arms for traction, and subframes for the stiffening/rattles

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't pay BMR $50 for a $100 bill. Run away, run far, far away.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

LOL ... I thought I was the only one ...

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

OK, Mitch's recomandations are not what you want for a daily driver. Some things are OK, but other's are not. For instance, you don't need rod ends on all suspension pickup points. You can stick with rubber and use rod ends only on the PHR. You can use them on one end of the rear control arms along with a rubber bushing on the other end. The one rod end prevents it from binding with the rubber end is fairly thin so there isn't much slack, but enough to help keep the vibrations away.

I think the Koni SA's would be fine for your usage. I don't know much about the Penske's, but if you have the money and they are adjustable, then they may be a good choice. I don't know, I'd stick with the Koni SA's myself. They have a real nice range of low speed rebound adjustability.

On springs, 700/200 is going to ride pretty rough. Too rough for my tastes. 550/160 is what I run on my daily driver and combined with the Koni SA's, brake dive is a thing of the past. It's firm riding, but the seats are pretty soft, so it's not too bad as far as I'm concerned. Tires, tire pressure and suspension travel will also play a role in the ride quality as well. You want to keep at least 2" of compression travel front and rear. More and the ride improves, less and it gets real bumpy.

Definetly get a big front sway bar. I have a solid 35mm and could go bigger if they made one.

It's all a bit of compromise. I think Mitch's suggestions are more towards a race only vehicle. I don't think you would like it as a daily driver at all. Dailing it back a little should make it more street friendly while still offering a huge improvement in feel and control.

Oh, about the companies, you have to look at it from a part by part basis. BMR makes some good parts as well as some not so good ones. I don't think any one company offers the best of everything. Strano knows his stuff and even though he carries cheaper parts for those who want them, if you ask, he'll tell you straight up which stuff of his you should avoid and which stuff is good. Few places do that, combined with his background and experience with these cars, he's a real good source of info and parts.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Can't argue with that ...

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Oh, wow.
I thought you were going to argue with me. What a pleasant surprise.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Imagine my surprise, too.

slick1851

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showforum=1

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind the FRRAX forum is for racers. They tend to frown on street guys.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

We do frown on people who think they need cages for only street driving. I somehow manage to keep it under 80 mph driving to class and work, but that can be tough for some.

If you are only driving on the street, why do you need anything other than Konis and a big front bar? My stock LS1 will go more than fast enough to get me into plenty of trouble on stock springs on 16x8's with cheap tires and stock brakes.

Jason, do you really want to drag this discussion to another forum? You can drive 150 on the street all you want, but don't expect any responsible person to support such behavior.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

All I said was they frown on street guys.

Don'twith all that nonsense.