halennow

iTrader: (2)

I have a 98 Z28 and I am about to get new rotors and im also setting up my car for some track time at lime rock, watkins glen, and the pocono speedway. Is it necessary to upgrade rotor size or will the stock rotor size be OK as long I get performance slotted rotors, good pads, ss lines, and high temp fluid? The main reason that I am asking is because i would like to use my stock 16's as my race wheels and with the upgrade in size i think i would need a bigger wheel. O yeah and the car is mainly stock except for a lid, ram air hood, headers, ORY, borla.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

Drilled and slotted rotors in no way improve braking performance. In fact, drilled rotors are more likely to crack than blanks. C5 brakes are a cheap, effective upgrade, but require the use of 17" wheels.

For a good brake upgrade, use good, aggressive pads. Hawk HP+ are OK for track use, but they will also work on the street. A pad like a Hawk HT-10 or Carbotech XP10 are a great choice for road course use, but should be swapped out for the street.

If you are just starting out, stock brakes will probably be OK. Aggressive pads and good fluid will go a long way to improving brake performance.

911ss

iTrader: (9)

why are the ht-10 and xp10 not good for the street?

Shock Hawk

Watch your unsprung weight as it will go up.

SouthFL.02.SS

True Race pad compound (like an HT-10) operates at high temperatures. At cold start-up temps, you will not be able to brake well. Also, when cold, they will tear through your rotors. Even mild street braking won't bring race pads up to operating temp.
That's why something like a Hawk HP Plus or a Carbotech Panther Plus is useful as a compromise pad for a streetcar seeing some track duty (for those who are too lazy to swap pads before/after events), yet, as all compromises work, the HP Plus won't work as well as an HT-10 when pushed to higher limits.

SouthFL.02.SS

Also, look in to brake ducting to keep the rotors/hubs cool. Ducting goes a long way to keep undersized brakes working well and won't break the bank.

SHELBYGLHS

Ducts are key. I run ducts, Porterfield R-4 pads front and porterfield R4S in the rear. No problem at Lime Rock and the Glen. The toughest track on brakes in the NE is NHIS. The brakes hold up well there too.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

im planning on doing some ducting soon....now i just need to get to an actual track. as far as rotors, ive heard 2 trains of thought. either get brembo blanks for the track; or just use any parts-store brand blank rotors, and throw them away after each track run. find whatever cheapest, decent quality rotors are around, and only use them ONCE at the track....after which they might be so torn up youd have to trash them anyway.