BLK85

iTrader: (1)

Just curious. I was thinking about an Evo because I want to be able to do decent on a road course/auto-x but American muscle sounds funner in my book.

SS101

iTrader: (2)

they're actually not bad stock but if you already knew that and are asking anyway id say:

good shocks and tubular suspension components (a-arms, panhard etc) will give you the best bang for the buck. if you want to get more serious, subframe connectors and a strut tower brace are also relatively cheap good choices.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

You don't need all tubular suspension components to make it handle, particularly in the front. An adjustable panhard bar is good so you can center the rear end. Heim joined rear LCA's are good as well. Good shocks, bigger sway bars, and set of Strano springs are all it really takes.

Strut tower braces do nothing, especially on a car THAT DOESN'T EVEN HAVE STRUTS!

Shock, bars, springs, tires. That's it.

Ironhead

X2

I installed a lot of that same stuff long before I started racing and long before I knew anything.

When I got smart, I removed the STB, the SFCs, the tubular upper arms / rear lower arms and a few other worthless components.

Know what happened? I went faster.

dailydriver

NO DOUBT. But you also had to remove the rod ended (or ANY aftermarket) rear lower control arms in order to be E/Street Prepared legal. They (good rod-ended rear control arms) would NOT slow you down IF you did not have to conform to a set of rules.

Ironhead

In comparison to the same very experienced (read: consistent) drivers I compete with on a regular basis, I was faster in ESP trim than I was in SM trim using the exact same tires and wheels (I've since gone on to other wheels / tires).

This means that I was (am) faster on stock components than I was with the tubular stuff.

Do I think the tubular stuff was slowing me down? Of course not, although some of it was actually heavier than stock.

Do I think having that stuff on the car made me faster? Not in the least.

So what happened? I got smart, removed the stuff that wasn't doing anything for me, dropped down to a class where I couldn't blame the car for my poor finishes, learned to drive a bit better and went faster without the tubular parts.

Nobody is saying the tubular stuff will slow you down, we're just saying you don't need it to go fast and to make the car handle.

youngrigo

Just get with Sam Strano! He know his ****

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

X3
Only, I'd add an alignment...max neg camber(probly around -1), max pos caster, and ZERO toe.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah, that too. Alignment is really important.

OvalHunter

I just finished my first track day with the parts that Sam Strano recomended for my particular use. My car runs awesome. Two vettes (97&00), an Audi and a Saleen will attest to it. They all came up and looked at my car and asked what all I had done to it.
I know my mods put me in a rule class way out of my league - but the fun factor is out of this world. Not all of the upgrades make you faster per se but the total package is hard to beat when installed on a 4th Gen.
I performed the upgrades over the years in a sensible manner and now have a ride that will beat some pretty fancy cars. I run the quarter in the mid twelves @ 117 on RSA stock tires and just turned 1min 41sec laps over and over at Grattan yesterday with 136mph top speeds on the straight.
Room for improvement: Slicks, better brake pad compound, hydraulic system flush with better fluid - brake warning lamp and ABS inop are not good at 136. I think I had water pump issues with the sustained high rpm during the 30 min sessions also.

To quote an observer - "That car is bad ***!"

BLK85

iTrader: (1)

Well I rode in my first autocross event today. And man what a blast it is. When I get my F-body this spring I will be doing some handling mods instead of go fast straight line stuff. I have driven a drag car and road in even more but autoX is so much funner.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

I would strongly suggest you keep mods to a minimum at first. Koni shocks, 35mm front sway bar, and an alignment is all you need. When you first start auto-xing, you are holding the car back, not the other way around. You need to work on your driving first BEFORE you work on the car.

dmiz0420

iTrader: (8)

Either way, learn the car stock*, you will be the slow spot, not the car.

You will likely go in a different direction for mods after your first school and as you learn your own and your car's short comings.

* Change all fluids, replace obvius weak or failinig parts, an alignment (mild) is good, stick with agressive summer road radials or stock tires Put good brake pads on it and dot 4 fluid to flush the system and go for it!

As far as a 4th gen handling like an evo (assuming that was y you mentioned that): they are different cars other than both having 4 tires. fbdy cars are front engine v8, unibody, rear straight axle cars. EVO is really good out of the box for handeling, road race, and cetianly auto-x: fully independent suspension, good hp, awd, smaller, awd, lighter weight, awd, better brakes and weight distribution, plus its awd.

So you would have some work to do to get an f body to that level, and it looks like your accepting that, so you are making a cooler descision. For your first school, BMW CCA has consistent level of quality instructors and a good safe nurturing environment.

Man, admitting evo advantages and a bmw cca recommendation in one post, they really need a smiley diving for cover behind some sand bags and into a fox hole.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Amen brother.... Proof that parts don't make for a faster car. The RIGHT parts make for a faster car!

Cherub

So far I have sfc and sway bars on my car and they are amazing. The sfc where noticable as soon as I hit a corner hard. I thought that did there job well and are worth the weight. The sway bars seemed to improve the steering responsiveness but other than that I haven't noticed. And before the mods I was playing with a wrx sti in my z/28 on some S curves and I was all over him everywhere on those curves. It was a shame that there wasn't enough room to pass. Wasn't impressed by the wrx for what it is hyped up to be. As for the Evo. My z/28 is whole hella fun! Fast! And has torque!

CavPat

That guy was lacking the driver mod. I lived in Germany for a couple years, and rode in MANY fast cars on the Nurburgring. My fastest ride of all on the 'ring was in a WRX STI. The owner did his research, did the right mods, and he KNEW HOW TO DRIVE! That was the fastest, scariest, and most fun ride I've ever had.

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

Agreed! I was also going to rip into the "felt the diff w SFCs, but not sway bars" part but figured why bother.
And if you think your 4th gen is on par w an STI, you are in denial!
In my club 4th gens are put w the AWD turbo cars (like WRXs and EVOs). Its pretty unfair! These things are faster in tight autocrosses and big tracks. It sucks! It takes a heavily modded f-body (with great driver) to compete w a lightly modded EVO or WRX(with an OK driver). They have similar weight and horsepower, but have ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE.

Don't get me wrong, I wont be swapping my Z28 for a Suburu....but they are fast. Luckily for me I'll trade the brute torque, pleasant V8 exhaust note, and ability to bring the rear around at will for a few seconds at the track. (Plus I jumped into a street tire class to get away from them!)