Information regarding the Thunder Racing T-ReX camshaft
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I can shift faster than you.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Information regarding the Thunder Racing T-ReX V.2 camshaft I figured now is an excellent time to update everyone on the new camshafts we have developed recently. For the most part, we are done with the preliminary testing and only have a few minor things to wrap up. They are ready for sale immediately and can be found on the website at this link:
Thunder Racing T-ReX camshaft
For those who have not been been following the progress, here is the thread in the Dyno section:
TRx V.2 cam
SPECS
Thunder Racing TRx V.2 - 242/248 .608/.612 110lsa +2
Piston to Valve clearance
When going with a cam of this size, piston to valve clearance becomes more of a concern. Both of these cams are well within the spec of allowable clearance with stock heads and stock shortblock. They are, however, on the tight side of the spec, but definitely something that can be used with the proper attention being paid to the install (intake centerline) and valvetrain selection.
The cams have the following PtV with a stock cylinder head (stock valves, stock valvejob, no milling), '98/'99 GM graphite gasket (.053", compressed), stock shortblock (pistons .007" above deck), and a 108* intake centerline:
V.2: Intake .070", Exhaust .090"
For those that feel that this is too tight and are uncomfortable with this clearance, we do offer the ISKY flycutting tool which will make valve reliefs in your stock pistons. The heads do need to be removed to perform this task, so be prepared to purchase new gaskets and bolts. You can notch the pistons with the motor still in the car. You can also just select a smaller camshaft and not have to worry about any of this.
The pistons in my car are not notched and I have had no problems with any PtV.
Valvetrain
We recommend either the Comp 921s or Crane 144832 dual springs due to the aggressive nature of this cam. Thunder Racing 7.400" hardended pushrods are needed as well.
Tuning and Driveability
Tuning is going to be an absolute must with either of these cams to get the idle and driveability sorted out. Once the tuning is taken care of, for a cam of this size, it drives pretty well. Still, this cam is not for the faint of heart. It was designed for those looking for a cam that makes very impressive power with stock heads. It can be used in a daily driver if you don't mind the driving characteristics of a large cam. For those looking to drive this cam everyday, I would recommend a complete tuning session, gears (4:10s or steeper in a M6), and a loose converter in an A4 car.
From my limited street time with the V.2, it really is quite driveable. I just put 25 miles on the car in the last hour with the Hooker catback installed and it is much better now with some additional tuning Geoff did.
We will be spending a full day early next week taking care of the final driveability tuning. It is 10x better than what it was with the stock tuning.
Rest assured, this only the beginning of the new camshafts Thunder Racing will be offering. The V.3 is already in the works.
If anyone has any specific questions regarding this cam, post here or sent me an email (jason99ta@hotmail.com). I'll be more than happy to help you as best as possible.
Jason
Thunder Racing T-ReX camshaft
For those who have not been been following the progress, here is the thread in the Dyno section:
TRx V.2 cam
SPECS
Thunder Racing TRx V.2 - 242/248 .608/.612 110lsa +2
Piston to Valve clearance
When going with a cam of this size, piston to valve clearance becomes more of a concern. Both of these cams are well within the spec of allowable clearance with stock heads and stock shortblock. They are, however, on the tight side of the spec, but definitely something that can be used with the proper attention being paid to the install (intake centerline) and valvetrain selection.
The cams have the following PtV with a stock cylinder head (stock valves, stock valvejob, no milling), '98/'99 GM graphite gasket (.053", compressed), stock shortblock (pistons .007" above deck), and a 108* intake centerline:
V.2: Intake .070", Exhaust .090"
For those that feel that this is too tight and are uncomfortable with this clearance, we do offer the ISKY flycutting tool which will make valve reliefs in your stock pistons. The heads do need to be removed to perform this task, so be prepared to purchase new gaskets and bolts. You can notch the pistons with the motor still in the car. You can also just select a smaller camshaft and not have to worry about any of this.
The pistons in my car are not notched and I have had no problems with any PtV.
Valvetrain
We recommend either the Comp 921s or Crane 144832 dual springs due to the aggressive nature of this cam. Thunder Racing 7.400" hardended pushrods are needed as well.
Tuning and Driveability
Tuning is going to be an absolute must with either of these cams to get the idle and driveability sorted out. Once the tuning is taken care of, for a cam of this size, it drives pretty well. Still, this cam is not for the faint of heart. It was designed for those looking for a cam that makes very impressive power with stock heads. It can be used in a daily driver if you don't mind the driving characteristics of a large cam. For those looking to drive this cam everyday, I would recommend a complete tuning session, gears (4:10s or steeper in a M6), and a loose converter in an A4 car.
From my limited street time with the V.2, it really is quite driveable. I just put 25 miles on the car in the last hour with the Hooker catback installed and it is much better now with some additional tuning Geoff did.
We will be spending a full day early next week taking care of the final driveability tuning. It is 10x better than what it was with the stock tuning.
Rest assured, this only the beginning of the new camshafts Thunder Racing will be offering. The V.3 is already in the works.
If anyone has any specific questions regarding this cam, post here or sent me an email (jason99ta@hotmail.com). I'll be more than happy to help you as best as possible.
Jason
Last edited by Jason99T/A; Feb 14, 2004 at 08:18 PM.
When you were testing the 1st version, you were still running the 3.42's out back, correct? Am I right to assume that they are still in the car, and if so, how does the car act now with the V2 in it? How's the driveability? Where does this cam need to be shifted at? 
Thread Starter
I can shift faster than you.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Originally Posted by UnbelievabLS1
When you were testing the 1st version, you were still running the 3.42's out back, correct? Am I right to assume that they are still in the car, and if so, how does the car act now with the V2 in it? How's the driveability? Where does this cam need to be shifted at?
For best ET/MPH, shift at 6800-7000 rpms.
A 12-bolt/4.56s goes in very soon.
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Tuning's not a problem, as TEA is only about an hour away! I realize I won't see the max potential out of this cam with 3.42's, but that just means it will be a hell of an interstate runner.....hello Mr. Supra.! Do you think there is enough clearance if I were to mill my heads say .005"? I would like to clean them up a lil bit. 
I realize I won't see the max potential out of this cam with 3.42's, but that just means it will be a hell of an interstate runner.....hello Mr. Supra.! Do you think there is enough clearance if I were to mill my heads say .005"? I would like to clean them up a lil bit. 
Thread Starter
I can shift faster than you.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
UnbelievabLS1: I would not recommend any milling of the heads in the least. You could mill them, you will be making an already tight PtV even tighter.
Andrew: it does sound pretty similar. I'll have some soundclips up later through the Hooker catback.
Gimp98TNT: The REV duals are not recommended. The Crane duals or Comp 921s would be the two springs I would recommend. Nitrous will work just fine with this cam.
Andrew: it does sound pretty similar.
I'll have some soundclips up later through the Hooker catback.Gimp98TNT: The REV duals are not recommended. The Crane duals or Comp 921s would be the two springs I would recommend. Nitrous will work just fine with this cam.
Originally Posted by Jason99T/A
UnbelievabLS1: I would not recommend any milling of the heads in the least. You could mill them, you will be making an already tight PtV even tighter.
Andrew: it does sound pretty similar. I'll have some soundclips up later through the Hooker catback.
Gimp98TNT: The REV duals are not recommended. The Crane duals or Comp 921s would be the two springs I would recommend. Nitrous will work just fine with this cam.
Andrew: it does sound pretty similar.
I'll have some soundclips up later through the Hooker catback.Gimp98TNT: The REV duals are not recommended. The Crane duals or Comp 921s would be the two springs I would recommend. Nitrous will work just fine with this cam.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 356
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From: Texas
Jason,
Excellent numbers!!! How do you and Geoff feel about this cam and p/p heads? Is it designed specifically for the stock heads or will some serious flowing LS6 heads(P-P'd) get the numbers on this cam way up there?
Todd
Excellent numbers!!! How do you and Geoff feel about this cam and p/p heads? Is it designed specifically for the stock heads or will some serious flowing LS6 heads(P-P'd) get the numbers on this cam way up there?
Todd
Thread Starter
I can shift faster than you.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
For those looking for a soundclip, here is one through the Hooker catback:
TReX v.2 soundclip
BuckeyeROC: The springs should last quite awhile. I would say at a minimum 20k-25k miles.
2001 Pewter WS6: I'll reply to your email as soon as possible. There are about 10 other ones I have to answer as well. lol
Beast96Z: The specs will be released once we are done with the testing.
WhiteDiamond: There is no reason why this cam will not make even better power with ported heads. Flycutting will be necessary with 99.9% of the ported heads on the market. If all goes well, there could be a set of heads on my car at the beginning of March.
Steve, you reading this??
TReX v.2 soundclip
BuckeyeROC: The springs should last quite awhile. I would say at a minimum 20k-25k miles.
2001 Pewter WS6: I'll reply to your email as soon as possible. There are about 10 other ones I have to answer as well. lol
Beast96Z: The specs will be released once we are done with the testing.
WhiteDiamond: There is no reason why this cam will not make even better power with ported heads. Flycutting will be necessary with 99.9% of the ported heads on the market. If all goes well, there could be a set of heads on my car at the beginning of March.
Steve, you reading this?? 
Reverse Logic In your testing, did you figure out that the standard split cam makes more power and torque than a reverse split?
What were the specs on the first version just for comparison?
What were the specs on the first version just for comparison?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,242
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From: Lakeland, FL
Damn thats one hell of a cam, I was gonna go smaller with my stroker lol!!!
Props to you guys for the awesome numbers and for actually releasing the cam specs right off the bat. Thunder as usual rules!!!
Props to you guys for the awesome numbers and for actually releasing the cam specs right off the bat. Thunder as usual rules!!!