You mean the "tangs" on the inside of the input drum? Iirc, Dana does recommended to check for burrs, and file them clean/smooth.

Same rebuild kit I used years ago also good luck

 

Just noticed something....... In the 2-4 servo bore I don't have the 3rd accumulator capsule as pointed out in the first picture. But I do have a check ball in the 3rd accumulator bore on the valve body side of the case. Is this fine? It does not leak.

 

You will have to extract the Sonnax Servo Check Valve & Install the 3rd Accumulator Check Ball Capsule. That is a BAD assembly error by the previous Builder!!!! Will create a serious leak in the 3/4 clutch circuit if not corrected!
It states in plain English NOT to remove the Capsule in the Sonnax directions.

Check to see if it was blocked also, Hopefully that is not the case.....

 

My apologizes but a couple rookie questions....
What sonnax part would be installed where it would say not to install there sonnax check valve? Are you saying my 2-4 servo is sonnax in which I should be using the 3rd accumulator check ball capsule? (You said in the sonnax directions it says not to install the valve, directions for what?)
And what am I checking to see if it's blocked? You talking the bore where they put the sonnax check valve could be blocked 100%?

 

You have the Sonnax Servo Release Check valve installed:
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2432-ser...heck-valve-kit

As Clinebarger said, you still MUST have the stock capsule installed too.
The stock capsule is ACDelco #8634400.

The Sonnax instructions are very explicit about that:
"3. Installation & Assembly
a. Ensure OE 3rd accumulator checkball capsule is
installed and seals without leaks or seepage."

As mentioned you will need to remove the Sonnax valve, installed the OE capsule, and if desired re-install the Sonnax valve. The Sonnax valve fits snug and might be a bit difficult to remove; I tap it with a 5/16" reamer to make the valve easy to pull out if needed.

Here are some threads on the subject:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...60e-build.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...d-release.html

Hopefully that answers your question because frankly I did not understand your last post. These parts have nothing to do with which servo pistons you use; the checkball cartridge is definitely needed.

 

Yes, thanks much, you did answer my questions. Sorry about that also lol, I didn't really know how to put it or to say what I meant but you cleared it up for me.
I will install the capsule but in your guys opinion should I put the check valve back in?

 

What you have labeled as the 3rd Accumulator Check Ball is Actually a Servo Release Check Valve, It is part of the Sonnax Shift kit. You are not suppose to remove the OEM 3rd Accumulator Check Ball Capsule from the Case, The Servo Release Valve fits on top of the OEM Capsule.

If it is not leaking (Inside the Case), I am guessing the 3rd Accumulator "Exhaust" is blocked with a Cup Plug, This was a popular mod years ago....But causes more issues than it EVER solved "In my Opinion"

You can remove the Sonnax Servo Check Valve with a #5 ease out & check if the Exhaust is blocked. If it is blocked, Carefully drill out the Cup Plug & Install a GM 3rd accumulator Capsule...Leak Check it...Then reinstall the Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve.

Or you could leave it blocked, Though it can cause 2-3 upshift & 3-2/4-2 downshift concerns.

 

Ok, thanks, I'm glad I brought that to your guys attention.
Sorry about mis labeling some things.
Just went to the garage and the exhaust port does have a plug. So I will order a capsule, drill the plug out and install everything correctly.

 

What is the reason for the exhaust port that leads to the inside of the case by the 3rd accumulator check ball capsule?

Edit: is it to bleed off air?

 

Also E in the picture below has a plug in it in my transmission as you can see in my picture. Normal?

 

That Cup Plug should have a small hole in it, It bleed off air & Lubes the Reverse Input Drum Band Surface while in D3-3rd gear (RID overrunning).

 

Alrighty, looking for a little advice.... I'm switching to braided tranny lines and AN fittings. Would you guys recommend Teflon tape or any other kind of sealant on the straight thread into case or any of the tapered thread on the other fittings?

 

AN fittings are never used with any sealant.
The straight thread into the case needs a washer or o-ring to seal properly.

 

Is this bushing fine or is it seated to deep?

 

Also I don't ever recall pulling a seal retainer off nor can I find one laying around in my work area. There are marks that show there was once one on there. Is it necessary?

 

Just went back and read this...... I brought my pump to a transmission shop after I pulled it apart and cleaned it and had them do all the bushings and talk a bit and they ran the bushing into the step
I do have two extra bushings. I should probably redo it myself ?

 

Let me know if you can't find a front seal retainer; I'll send you one off a junker.

 

Ok, thanks much
I found a old thread where it was brought up and Vince@FLT said it was fine without it.
I need to stop at a big transmission parts shop that I just realized was near me and will see if they have one.
Need to pick up forward steels because I'm a space brain and realized I never added them to a order I placed a week ago.

 

Just put my input drum together dry.

Forward clearance dry: .047" - .050"

8 friction 3-4 clutch pack clearance dry: .035"
Borg Warner HE
(6) .065" Frictions
(2) .080" Frictions
(1) .097" Steels
(6) .078" Steels
(1) .128 Backing Plate

What do you guys think ?

 

Also should the pump plastic thrust washer ride on the reverse input drum or should there be a gap?