aluthman

I've had a lot of luck tacking stainless like that. Normally it only fails when the fit-up is off. Aluminum can be tacked this way also, but it tends to crack unless you add filler.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Sometimes is I can't get the torch angle where it needs to be, or I have a tiny gap (really needs great fit up to work) or if I'm working with thin material such as a header for example what you can do is still have the machine cranked the **** up, but instead of establishing the arc and then doing a short blast, I'll get the arc started will small pedal, kind of moving the torch back and forth between both pieces and then roll into the pedal pretty aggressively (like 100%) in about 1 second. I'll do this on the piece that is higher and the torch slightly pointed down (let gravity help you). During this second I will slightly move the torch down to the other piece.

You can always do a tack on normal amperage and a small dab of filler, as that is effective 100% of the time. The tip above though is helpful in those situations where you may need to be using your other hand to hold one of the joining pieces, or if you are in an awkward position.

Give it a try. It is not always the best way to do a tack, but it can work to your advantage in some situations. I would compare it to having another tool in the tool box. Understand?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Issue I had tacking with the tig when I was building my headers was A: awkward as hell locations, B: hard to reach, C: I had to hold one piece to the other so I had no way of feeding rod to the tack point.

Building a 2.5 inch primary header on a tall deck big block in an f body chassis, I don't care who you are there's not a lot of room in the car to get tubes nevermind your hands with a tig torch, he'll tacking with the mig was difficult at times, more than once I literally had to play circus contortionist lol.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

I heard that. It's good to have an extra hand when building headers.

irrational

Just want to give you guys a heads up on the everlast welders out there. Two weeks ago i melted my everlast 185 powertig while welding up an aluminum radiator. Almost lost the work from a customer because of that. But before this last one melted, i had issues with a previous unit and had to be sent another unit under warranty. But lo-and-behold the unit i originally bought did not have a serial number on it so they wouldnt warranty it. Thats some pretty shitty work if you ask me. So i bitched at them and showed paypal receipts and they finally caved. But i want to let you guys know, never buy from everlast period.

i went out and picked up a syncrowave 300 for 700$ on craigs. Gotta say, best 700$ ive ever spent. This thing welds like butter compared to that chinese ****.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The guy I borrowed the diversion 165 from offered to sell it to me, so I'm going to take him up on it. Nice machine that I've gotten a little used to so its the right move. I'll have to make a cart for it

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

I always tell everyone to just nut up and spend your hard earned money on blue or red.

Cahl

Here ya go smally but goodie

Cahl

I think that was some 0.018 thick stuff

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

That had to be done in a fixture (rotating) right?>

Cahl

Yep all 4 limbs going manual speed control with left foot pedal.

Cahl

Heres another one from my Instagram

ablakez28

iTrader: (9)

Bump. Here is a fun one from a Mustang s480 kit i made

RidetechJosh

Some talented people on here. I'm still in the learning process on tig. I'm decent with a mig welder but I haven't had enough experience to feel comfortable posting my work for you guys , lol.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

Nice! What machine you using?

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

Dynasty 350, water cooled. #8 Gas lense(nothing fancy for alum) but use Furick cups for carbon/stainless. 3/32 blue tungsten, 3/32 4043 filler, 100% argon @ 20cfh. 150hz, 75% balance, machine set to 180amps but pedal it. .7 pre flow and automatic post flow(generally works out to 6 seconds)

Single 5" to 4" to dual 3.5" aluminum exhaust all the way out the back.

ablakez28

iTrader: (9)

Thank you! Self taught over the last few years learning building my own kits and such. Miller Diversion 180.

Few more recent ones

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

I'm also a 100% self taught welder. I run a dynasty 200. For a year under your belt, your quality will only keep improving, and it already looks good.

ablakez28

iTrader: (9)

Thanks! I thikn I grabbed the welder about three years ago. But before this past year when I started doing some side work I had only built three turbo kits with it. Now it seems im firing it up almost weekly. My biggest improvements really have been in fabrication and fitup. Man the time it used to take me to hand shape some wastegate inlets for example, or building a merge. I remember that being an all day affair and now its 30min haha.

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

Question on atrocious welding: I've got a buddy who does great work on cars and he agreed to a great deal on welding in two cutouts for me. I sampled some of his work and it was god-awful. He spliced in a muffler for someone else with globs of welds and I'm considering going elsewhere. Great mechanic but awful welder. Would you guys say thanks but no thanks? Are there any issues that may arise from shoddy welding or is it simply a recognition of the beautification of workmanship?