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Crunch time. Lonestar RoundUp is coming up in a few weeks.
Got everything powered up today. Need to bolt down the converter, hook up Hptuners and turn off VATS, rear o2's, and all the other bs. Need to fit the driver side Camaro longtube, build some sort of an exhaust, and fill the trans/motor/radiator.
Crunch time. Lonestar RoundUp is coming up in a few weeks.
Got everything powered up today. Need to bolt down the converter, hook up Hptuners and turn off VATS, rear o2's, and all the other bs. Need to fit the driver side Camaro longtube, build some sort of an exhaust, and fill the trans/motor/radiator.
Isn't the roundup only for '63 and below? I was going to head to the swap meet to see if I could find another project, but I want something slightly newer than '63.
Totally forgot about that part, I usually have a pre '63, but nothing this year :/ Nonetheless, Congress is more fun than the actual RoundUp.
Working on the tune right now. Learning HPtuners is fun.
Had to move everything out of the shop yesterday while the new lift got delivered/installed. I get to wire it up and the new compressor tomorrow, more fun.
Started sanding the roof of the truck and get it ready for paint. Welded up a few small holes along the drip rail. Painting the roof to match the wheels.
Driveshaft, hang doors, wire compressors, exhaust (doing borla xr1's dumped), lower rad hose.
Driveshaft is the biggie. Truck was originally a 1 piece, but now that it's bagged I don't think a 1 piece will work (it will hit the trailing arm crossmember). Going to mock it up with some PVC tomorrow and find out though.
If not, i'll have to adapt a 1ton HD carrier bearing and run a 2 piece shaft ($$$$$$$$$)
It's running though. I need to log the tune, it's having a hard time idling, and it's surging until it dies. I took a 5.3 engine file and copied it into my 6.0/4l80e pcm rather than doing a segment swap.
Having some misfire issues (no o2's yet). Going to throw them in today.
Tune looks good, I put a 140amp alternator in the truck, so I had the infamous P1638 alternator F terminal code. Turned it off and a few others I had forgot about.
I've been prepping the roof for paint for a week now, it's a slow process since there's so much rust/pitting. I want to make sure it doesn't bubble up in a few years. So I've been using Phosporic acid to get in the areas I can't sand.
Ordered a Dakota Digital VHX cluster. I've been driving the truck around the neighborhood for about a week now working out kinks. The stall is taking some getting used to, but it's a fun truck.
Well the Speed Engineering Longtubes that are supposedly made for LS swapped C10's don't even come close to fitting. I haven't been very successful finding a set of longtubes that fit this frame yet. I even pulled the pacesetters off my CTSV to test fit :/
I'm going to give the TBSS Pacesetters a try I guess.
thats what i used. minimal frame trimming. points directly at the crossmember though, so that needs sussed
That's the plan, found the coated versions for $450 shipped. I have a tubular crossmember with plenty of room so I'm not too worried about that. More concerned with fitting around the 4l80. We might be the very few running an 80 in one of these trucks.
Yeah I had my concerns about them clearing the 80. I only had to cut one corner of the converter cover down about 3/4".
People told me the 80 was really inefficient and i'd lose a bunch of power and mileage, that turned out to be 100% horseshit thankfully. The only difference I can tell is the pump makes a little more noise due to it being constant displacement and the 2-3 shifts are as stiff as the 1-2. Never messing with the 60 again.
Yeah I had my concerns about them clearing the 80. I only had to cut one corner of the converter cover down about 3/4".
People told me the 80 was really inefficient and i'd lose a bunch of power and mileage, that turned out to be 100% horseshit thankfully. The only difference I can tell is the pump makes a little more noise due to it being constant displacement and the 2-3 shifts are as stiff as the 1-2. Never messing with the 60 again.
I can barely feel the shifts in my 80. Fresh rebuild and a Circle D converter. I've been down the 60 road before, I've seen a lot of people waste a lot of money. It's really a no brainer, and in the end is only something like 10-20% loss.
So how did the passenger side manifold fit?
Oh and this happened this morning. So next week I'll have my gauge cluster and new longtubes here.
well i just happen to have some pics i took for my boss who's getting ready to swap his '64
pass side.
driver's. you can kinda gage how much i took off by looking at that hole in the frame rail. i think it was the rivet for the clutch bell crank bracket.
well i just happen to have some pics i took for my boss who's getting ready to swap his '64
pass side.
driver's. you can kinda gage how much i took off by looking at that hole in the frame rail. i think it was the rivet for the clutch bell crank bracket.
Looks like they fit better than most I've tried. What mounts are you using? I'm using the Early Classic mounts
1/2" thick aluminum adapter plates off ebay on stock-style mounts and stock v8 perches
I would have done something similar, but mine was an original 250 truck.
Well I spent the afternoon buttoning up some suspension stuff.
Then I pulled out the original cluster and started thinning out the brand new Painless chassis harness, it's ready for the Dakota Digital.
Then I finally got my compressors hooked up and went to test them, and one of them is bad out of the box. I really wanted to do an engine driven compressor for the reliability and performance, but I just couldn't fit it in the engine bay. Hopefully I have better luck with the replacement compressor, but so far i'm not convinced these electric compressors are reliable.
03-18-2016, 12:05 AM
