'65 C10 SWB Build
'65 C10 SWB Build Picked up this gem 5-6 months ago in Dallas, pretty much completely stock.
When I picked it up
Rebuilt the brake system, and scored a set of 22" smoothies
Painted them a cherry red. CPP 5" drop springs & shocks
Then my buddies at Painless told me they were looking for a 64-66 C10 SWB to use as a guinea pig to update their full body harness. So I towed it back up to Dallas.
4ish months later, the truck is wired with their brand new updated bus style fuse box/wiring harness. The truck was missing quite a few things like a turn signal stalk, horn, etc, they ordered all that stuff so everything works now.
And then Wrench a Part had a $150 engine sale last weekend, so I picked up the new power plant to replace the 250.
Bagging the truck, motor will be mostly stock minus cam/head gaskets/studs. Probably putting an NV3500/4500 behind it.
I'm driving up to Painless in the morning to pick up the truck and haul it back. Excited to get working on it again.
When I picked it up
Rebuilt the brake system, and scored a set of 22" smoothies
Painted them a cherry red. CPP 5" drop springs & shocks
Then my buddies at Painless told me they were looking for a 64-66 C10 SWB to use as a guinea pig to update their full body harness. So I towed it back up to Dallas.
4ish months later, the truck is wired with their brand new updated bus style fuse box/wiring harness. The truck was missing quite a few things like a turn signal stalk, horn, etc, they ordered all that stuff so everything works now.
And then Wrench a Part had a $150 engine sale last weekend, so I picked up the new power plant to replace the 250.
Bagging the truck, motor will be mostly stock minus cam/head gaskets/studs. Probably putting an NV3500/4500 behind it.
I'm driving up to Painless in the morning to pick up the truck and haul it back. Excited to get working on it again.
Rear end pretty much locked up last night. I should have checked it when I first bought it nearly 6 months ago, but I never saw it leak and it didn't make any noise until the other day. Even then nothing that would have given me the impression that it was on it's last leg.
Anyway, I'll be swapping in a Ford 8.8 out of an Exploder. Why? Because they're cheap, 31 spline LSD rear ends with disc brakes. These old 12 bolts aren't anything fantastic anyway.
Onto the pics.
Motor is almost ready to go back together. I still need to order a shimmed ls6 pump and an ls2 timing chain, but I drove up to Texas Speed this morning and picked up a bunch of goodies.
Anyway, I'll be swapping in a Ford 8.8 out of an Exploder. Why? Because they're cheap, 31 spline LSD rear ends with disc brakes. These old 12 bolts aren't anything fantastic anyway.
Onto the pics.
Motor is almost ready to go back together. I still need to order a shimmed ls6 pump and an ls2 timing chain, but I drove up to Texas Speed this morning and picked up a bunch of goodies.
When you do the 8.8 swap take as many pics as you can, I'm trying to decide what to do with the rear in my 68. I was debating getting a 99+ silverado rear for the disc brakes and 6 lug bolt pattern still. From what I have gathered your 22's would fit perfect with that rear.
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Rear end pretty much locked up last night. I should have checked it when I first bought it nearly 6 months ago, but I never saw it leak and it didn't make any noise until the other day. Even then nothing that would have given me the impression that it was on it's last leg.
Anyway, I'll be swapping in a Ford 8.8 out of an Exploder. Why? Because they're cheap, 31 spline LSD rear ends with disc brakes. These old 12 bolts aren't anything fantastic anyway.
Onto the pics.
Motor is almost ready to go back together. I still need to order a shimmed ls6 pump and an ls2 timing chain, but I drove up to Texas Speed this morning and picked up a bunch of goodies.
Anyway, I'll be swapping in a Ford 8.8 out of an Exploder. Why? Because they're cheap, 31 spline LSD rear ends with disc brakes. These old 12 bolts aren't anything fantastic anyway.
Onto the pics.
Motor is almost ready to go back together. I still need to order a shimmed ls6 pump and an ls2 timing chain, but I drove up to Texas Speed this morning and picked up a bunch of goodies.
I recognize that engine stand, harbor freight special?
subscribed to the thread looks like a cool build. If possible I would like to get some more info on your buddy at painless. I live in Dallas and didn't know they had a facility here.
They are 6x5.5 and are for sale
$800. You technically can't buy them unless you know someone who works for a dealership that can somehow get them. They're factory GM transport wheels, and have a $1,500 core charge. All new SUV's are usually transported with them, then the dealers swap wheels and have to ship these back to the factory.
I'm borrowing it from a friend, as I sold mine. -Didn't plan on doing another swap right now. Yeah they have a warehouse/shop. And occasionally need test vehicles. I was just fortunate enough to have the
truck they needed and have a few buddies that worked there.
I've already decided to ditch the outdated 12 bolt. It pretty much locked up the other night, and I am fully expecting to open the cover and see an empty diff and trashed gearset even though it doesn't leak and didn't make a single sound until 2 days ago.
But since I'm doing a Porterbuilt rear end setup it doesn't matter, I can use anything that fits. 8.8 is superior in every aspect and at 2" narrower, I can fit some bigger tires
It's really my go to choice for axle swaps in older vehicles because it just makes sense, and I'm not a purist
Nearly 2 years making 500+ in the Volvo. Multiple 4-5k launches and my pinion bearings are just now starting to make noise (I didn't replace them when I swapped the rear end, and the JY slammed it on the ground with the forklift separating it from the Explorer.
$800. You technically can't buy them unless you know someone who works for a dealership that can somehow get them. They're factory GM transport wheels, and have a $1,500 core charge. All new SUV's are usually transported with them, then the dealers swap wheels and have to ship these back to the factory.
truck they needed and have a few buddies that worked there.
But since I'm doing a Porterbuilt rear end setup it doesn't matter, I can use anything that fits. 8.8 is superior in every aspect and at 2" narrower, I can fit some bigger tires
It's really my go to choice for axle swaps in older vehicles because it just makes sense, and I'm not a purist
Nearly 2 years making 500+ in the Volvo. Multiple 4-5k launches and my pinion bearings are just now starting to make noise (I didn't replace them when I swapped the rear end, and the JY slammed it on the ground with the forklift separating it from the Explorer.
Last edited by onetype; Sep 25, 2014 at 08:47 PM.
Motor is almost back together.
I had planned on putting a new pump and doing a lot of "piece of mind" stuff while I was open, but aside from the top end sludge, and some in the pan the motor looks spotless.
I want this build to be a driver, something I can drive across country on 87 octane and not care about. So it's going to stay as stock as possible.
It's a 3 speed Saginaw right now, debating on swapping an NV3500/NV4500 or going 4l60/4l80. I hate auto's, but for the sake of a cruiser I might go that route.
I had planned on putting a new pump and doing a lot of "piece of mind" stuff while I was open, but aside from the top end sludge, and some in the pan the motor looks spotless.
I want this build to be a driver, something I can drive across country on 87 octane and not care about. So it's going to stay as stock as possible.
It's a 3 speed Saginaw right now, debating on swapping an NV3500/NV4500 or going 4l60/4l80. I hate auto's, but for the sake of a cruiser I might go that route.
Last edited by onetype; Sep 25, 2014 at 11:50 AM.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Love the truck....you and I are pretty similar in our builds still 
Ditch the boat anchor of a 12 bolt just like you are planning.
Nice to have a new harness to work from. Are you going to be doing a MS3pro on the new motor or stick with GM PCM?
I am still dinking around with the 6.0 turbo setup in my f100 have yet to make any boost runs on it.
Keep up the build thread and Ill follow along.
Kind of glad you are ditching the 22's, I think they are too big and heavy.
Sean
Ditch the boat anchor of a 12 bolt just like you are planning.
Nice to have a new harness to work from. Are you going to be doing a MS3pro on the new motor or stick with GM PCM?
I am still dinking around with the 6.0 turbo setup in my f100 have yet to make any boost runs on it.
Keep up the build thread and Ill follow along.
Kind of glad you are ditching the 22's, I think they are too big and heavy.
Sean
Haha Yeah I've noticed that.
I was thinking ms3pro for this one as I don't have a harness yet, but I have a nice shiny 0411 pcm. I just don't know much about the MS stuff to be honest, but the less wires the better it will "blend" in I think.
I actually really like the 22's, the truck just needs to be a lot lower for them to look right. The problem with keeping them is that:
1) I would have to keep the factory 12 bolt which isn't happening
2) I would have to actually want to spend an absurd amount of money on a disc brake setup retaining one the least common bolt patterns ever made, which would severely limit my wheel options.
I had original planned on keeping the truck stock inline 6, and doing a t5 or similar swap and just bagging it which is why I initially bought the 22's.
Plans have changed quite a bit...
I probably won't work on the body much for a bit, aside from some small patch panels. I want to roll it around rusty with the swap for a bit lol. Then I'll probably go to a flat cream or something semi retro.
I was thinking ms3pro for this one as I don't have a harness yet, but I have a nice shiny 0411 pcm. I just don't know much about the MS stuff to be honest, but the less wires the better it will "blend" in I think.
I actually really like the 22's, the truck just needs to be a lot lower for them to look right. The problem with keeping them is that:
1) I would have to keep the factory 12 bolt which isn't happening
2) I would have to actually want to spend an absurd amount of money on a disc brake setup retaining one the least common bolt patterns ever made, which would severely limit my wheel options.
I had original planned on keeping the truck stock inline 6, and doing a t5 or similar swap and just bagging it which is why I initially bought the 22's.
Plans have changed quite a bit...
I probably won't work on the body much for a bit, aside from some small patch panels. I want to roll it around rusty with the swap for a bit lol. Then I'll probably go to a flat cream or something semi retro.
Closed the motor up earlier.
I finally found the cause of my front end vibration on the Volvo after a year and a half, so I drove it up to Texas Speed and bought a bunch of goodies.
Ordered bolt in mounts from Early Classic. At $240 shipped I probably should have made my own, but now I have some time to focus on other stuff.
Going to grab an 8.8 tomorrow, and hopefully pull the motor/trans this weekend if I have some time.
I finally found the cause of my front end vibration on the Volvo after a year and a half, so I drove it up to Texas Speed and bought a bunch of goodies.
Ordered bolt in mounts from Early Classic. At $240 shipped I probably should have made my own, but now I have some time to focus on other stuff.
Going to grab an 8.8 tomorrow, and hopefully pull the motor/trans this weekend if I have some time.
Started pulling it apart this morning. Taking a bit longer than I expected due to rusty bolts. Having to soak them a lot longer than I thought.
Waiting for ECE mounts, also picking up an immaculate 4l80 for dirt cheap (hopefully today).
Waiting for ECE mounts, also picking up an immaculate 4l80 for dirt cheap (hopefully today).
Last edited by onetype; Sep 28, 2014 at 12:34 PM.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Try Kroil on those rusty bolts. It works twice as fast as that Liquid wrench on the fender you are using now.
We use that stuff on big old boilers on tear down, and its the Bee's Knees.
Truck looks good, you are going to love that 4l80E. You going to do a descent converter in it?
Sean
We use that stuff on big old boilers on tear down, and its the Bee's Knees.
Truck looks good, you are going to love that 4l80E. You going to do a descent converter in it?
Sean
I'm not sure yet. The guy has 2, both are cheap and come with converters. But now he's not getting back to me so I may have to source one elsewhere.
I'm going to have to try Kroil. Only thing holding the front clip on now are the bottom fender bolts which are seized pretty good.
VA finally payed me so I have enough play money to pretty much finish the truck. Hope to have it done in a few weeks.
I'm going to have to try Kroil. Only thing holding the front clip on now are the bottom fender bolts which are seized pretty good.
VA finally payed me so I have enough play money to pretty much finish the truck. Hope to have it done in a few weeks.
It's off finally! Now I just need to get a buddy to help me move it. I had to spot weld all the bumper bolt heads to the bumper, soak the nuts overnight and use the big impact to get them off.
Now I can pull the motor/trans, which is already sold. I'm -$75 into the swap at this point.
Now I can pull the motor/trans, which is already sold. I'm -$75 into the swap at this point.
