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Got it running this last weekend. Got an alignment Wednesday. Gathering parts for return style fuel system and bulk head wiring to pump. I'll likely look over it this weekend to see what else I need to order, but could have everything I need now. Just not sure since I don't know where I'm mounting my regulator.
Tuning is on going process. Got the idle down to 900 so far, but I think by messing with my injector end phasing I can get 850 to 800, which will sound great with the overlap I have in this thing. I didn't go with the usual tuners easy way out cam. I have a full on power making carb profile that will take more time to get right.
Been looking at wheels to try and get an idea, but it's tough. I really like the Miro 111's in black (I'm not even a fan of black wheels so go figure) problem is I'm looking to do either 275 from and 295 rear or 285 all the way around and they don't make 10 or 10.5 wide. It's really hard to shop for that split online with the same 18" size. What would everyone else do with handling in mind and 600+HP motor?
Finished the fuel pump wiring upgrade. I never would have guessed I would have so much trouble getting that retainer clip to go on the racetronix universal bulk head. I'm still getting parts for the return system, so maybe this weekend or the next.
I've had a large set back on Monday. Turns out they switched the road the day before I went down it Monday. Water pipe sticking up center lane grabbed my drive shaft loop. Ripped the mount from the passenger side and dented in the floor. Broke my drive shaft and destroyed my exhaust system. I'm going to order another shaft Monday so i can test the trans for damage. Looks to be about $3000 to $3500 in damage.
Man thats BS, I'd have someones neck who ever the hell let a water pipe stick up in the middle of a road. Hope you made a police report had them out etc.
Florida or the county this happened in owes you some money.
I'm working on it. However I still need 3 estimates to fix it and that will be a little tough as it's a custom stainless and not a lot of places around here will want to do it. I have one place trying to quote with a Kooks and the cost to mod it to fit and add other mufflers. I don't know if it's going to go through, but there is no way I'm not going to try and just fork up $3K like it was my fault.
Got new drive shaft, but couldn't find tail seal local. Ordered it from D&D and came Friday. Went to put shaft in, but exhaust was in the way. Removed it from X pipe back and had to cut back half of X pipe off. Test drove it today finally (tropical storm has had us covered with rain for a couple days). Transmission seems good, but car is as loud as a stock car now. I have to drive to to 3 body shops for quotes, so I printed it out case to show the cops when they pull me over for the noise.
Well, I had the car running, but third time driving with about 70 miles in and I caught a water pipe on a construction road. I drove the road 2 days before and we were on the untouched side. Guess they swapped the traffic to the construction side the day after. Ripped my drive shaft loop off. Broke my drive shaft. Destroyed the exhaust system. Bent my torque arm. Adjuster said being lowered wasn't an issue because corvettes have less clearance that this, but after getting back from Italy I had a letter saying they would not cover it. I never lowered the car. Just how I bought it. Shocks were the next thing on the list. Just wanted to break in the motor, trans, clutch, and brakes. To bad I didn't remember to add coverage to my insurance. Had basic coverage on it for a couple years while I build the motor and money for the rest to this point.
So, since blowing up Travelers insurance headquarters isn't an option. The next step is to raise the car up to try and make sure I don't have this problem again. Then I can get back to paying for replacing other brand new parts again.
UMI/Strano coilovers
I've got the front out and once I get the upper control arms blasted and powder coated, the front will go together. Probably next weekend. I'm going to remove the rear tomorrow and if not to bad install also.
I also got an adjustable torque arm to allow more clearance for the exhaust up front while still being able to adjust the pinion angle.
Good to see the build is moving along again,
I am very curious about the ride quality with these dampeners and your thoughts on them when you get them installed.
You got yours in one box. I got my springs first and then the rest.
I have no clue when it will be running. I still have a ported intake to go on. Need to switch the fuel system to a at motor return and vac reference. I have a UMI cradle, but might wait to buy the box lower control arms. I looked at it a tiny bit and I'm not sure if I will need to build new brake lines or not. Maybe someone will have some insight on that, but pictures are better so I can make a judgement based on my OCD. Then at some point it is going back to get a new exhaust system. I guess realistically at least a month, but probably more as life gets in the way. If it cools off I can certainly work on it more. Removing the upper ball joints yesterday alone had me looking like a fell in a pool. I need A/C in my garage. Just not sure when my guy will come through on that. Probably not until it cools and he gets some free time.
Awesome build! I have a question: why the over the axle true duals instead of under the axle? Under the axle is less bends in the piping and more free flowing.
Hopefully the state or county assumed responsibility for the pipe sticking up and damaging everything.
Over the axle is the right way. I'll make up the 5HP loss somewhere else so I can use any jack to change a flat on the rear. Not always going to be in a good place or have floor jack on hand to lift it by the axle. I'll have at least 500HP to the wheels. I actually expect 530, but won't know for a while since things went sideways.
Nope, not covered. The county contracted a company. That company is insured by Travelers insurance. The adjuster said it was no issue, but then I got a letter saying they wouldn't cover it because the car was lowered. I bought it at this height. Not much I can do other than bug Travelers or spend money to try and get them to do the right thing. My thought is I'll waist some time on it, but not going to risk being out more money into that hole. I'm spending money to get the car running only. Oh and will never use Travelers insurance.
Last edited by Crf450r420; 09-25-2016 at 02:36 PM.
Like normal it turned into more work than I expected. Got the front apart and found the front control arms a bit of a pain. Didn't help that just taking off the two ball joints had me feeling like I jumped into a pool from the heat. Finally got the bushings pressed out. Then pressed out the rubber, so I could use the sleeve for energy suspension bushings. Blasted everything and pressed them back in before powdering coating. Today or yesterday now. I got them back together and ready to go back in place. Also, got all the rear brackets ready to bolt in tomorrow/today. Just not sure I'm going to do the front yet since I have the cradle and I'm thinking I should just get the boxed lowers to put them all in at once. I can work on the new intake and fuel system while I wait for those to come in. Just have to scratch up the money since I didn't plan on doing these now.
Got the rear coil overs bolted in and one of them raised to max lift before I called it. Going to start at max and lower what I can once it's settled in and everything else is in place to judge how low I can safely go. I'll max the other side and get the sway bar hooked back up next chance. Think I'm going to order the lower control arms at the end of the week since I need to redo my brake lines on the rear axle already. I might as well do the front while I'm at it.
What brake line should I run? I'd go stainless without asking if I knew there is good stuff that is workable without issue, but I'm guess some will be a PIA and crack while flaring. I'd love to have no rust lines that need no maint.
Try to remember what I've done to go with these picture updates. I also got the UMI adjustable torque arm mounted which isn't fun, only to find out I need to cut off the first set of hole on the bracket so I can use the second set on my Moser 12 bolt. I would have worked on that while I waited for other things if I wasn't worried about the motor weight not being on the front of the car anymore. Probably do that next week or two as I can since I don't have money for the lower A arms at the moment. Oh and once I pulled off the front hubs I started looking into them. I had no clue the stock ones were almost worthless. I see Strano has rebuildable ones that keep ABS, but they are like $700 each. Are these the best option or what is the way to go?
Ported LS3 intake ports
A ported LS3 port.
ported front
Got the intake on with a heat shield under it and started on manifold reference regulator.
Cardboard template
Base notch template
Hard part handled, but didn't have the bolts needed to finish.
Finally finished up.
New fuel system layout.
Stripped for K member and drained brake lines
Stripped for K member and drained brake lines
Cherry picker for one support
converted motorcycle jack for a second support
K member out
UMI Road Race K memeber
Taking the last motor mount of the engine
Hanging and power wires that need to covered better than the old oil soaked factory loom
Rusty mounts just couldn't go back on this way
Put the K member on with a 2x4 as a 3rd support for a few days
Mounts back together and ready to go
Dropped the pan for baffles
Improved racing F body baffles installed
Noticed UMI K member has no alignment pins
Noticed UMI K member has no alignment pins
Fresh motor mounts and K member installed, just not sure how to align it to finish
Fresh motor mounts and K member installed, just not sure how to align it to finish
Looking good man! Perfect time to work on her, hell we have to take advantage of this weather before it's 100*+ again.
Those hubs Strano sells are the cream of the crop, being rebuildable is a major plus too. As far as hubs go I believe those are the only ones on the market hence the price, supply and demand. A couple years or so ago a member on here got a group buy together for billet hubs (I can't remember the company) and it was a steal for the price like $900 or something for a pair. I wish now I would have bought a pair…
04-29-2016, 09:52 AM
