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i have a 2000 996 c2 cab that i swapped with an lq9. I was talking to steve at renegade hybrids about it and we came to the conclusion that there is a very good possibility i am the first to try an iron block in one. I did alot of searching and looking at other builds. The only other iron block 911 i found was an older 78' model. Just trying to see if anyone has any insight to confirm or deny this? I am planning on making a build thread soon when i get a chance to write a big post with tons of pics just curious about the possible 1st ever possibility even though im sure alot of ppl hate on the iron block idea bc "its so heavy" haha
Great to see another Cab, I talked with Steve about getting me some photo's of ECM placement in a Cab. They have only done a hand full of the Cab's and had no photo's could you share, yours? I am getting close to getting my LS2 built and ready to install.
cool man. Its nice to hear of another cab build. mine im running right next to the stock computer. just a perfect amount of space for it. It fits like it was meant to be there. Haha. Im not quite done with mine yet though. I got it running on saturday. Runs real good. I just have to fabricate the exhaust, bracket for gas pedal, and some more wiring here and there
cool man. Its nice to hear of another cab build. mine im running right next to the stock computer. just a perfect amount of space for it. It fits like it was meant to be there. Haha. Im not quite done with mine yet though. I got it running on saturday. Runs real good. I just have to fabricate the exhaust, bracket for gas pedal, and some more wiring here and there
Looks like you are running LS1 ECM? Are you running DBW? And if so are you running Porsche pedal or GM? A few guys have ran the Porsche pedal and have been having issues. RH runs GM pedal, I have been to their shop beings I am here in LV.
I am running a vortec gen 3 harness, ecu, and pedal. I still need to mount the pedal. I went with gm pedal to avoid the issues the others have had like u said. I went a little different route and am running an ls6 intake with a 3 bolt dbw tb instead of the 4 bolt ls3 style like rh runs. steve made a reverse air box for me bc of that. Still waiting on it to show up but im hopeful it will work. I also unforunately have an issue with the fact that i have a 24x crank sensor engine instead of the 58x, so i have a tachometer issue atm but i may have found a part to possibly fix that issue
My LS2 was out of a GTO which ran the E40 24X ECM. I switched mine to a 58X reluctor wheel and cam gear and will run a E38 or E67 ECM. So that I will not have the tach issues.
Ya i wish i would have realized i would have that issue prior to installing the engine and buying all the parts. Haha. O well im sure i can figure out something
You need to reference Amille28's build and posts on my build. He has figured out a lot of the wiring. Like the Cooling Fans, fuel pump, check engine light ect. I had done my own research and he confirmed that I was on the correct path. The RH instructions are really not that great, their cooling fan instructions are really hard to follow. Another great build to reference is FieroFly's, but remember his car is a 2003 4S and the computer system and cooling system is different then our cars. Both of those guys are using the Porsche pedal and are having a few issues, mainly not getting WOT.
i have looked at fieroflys build a few times for ideas. It is somewhat helpful. I havent worked on the cooling fans yet. I got the water pump, oil gauge, and coolant gauge wired in already. not positive if the the coolant gauge works yet bc i havent ran it long enough to find out but the other things work. I started filling it with coolant the other day but ran out of time to keep working on it. I hope to get into more of the wiring this week. On the fuel pump i ended up using the gm relay to activate the porsche relay to turn on the pump. Had issues with the wiring diagrams i had at first but once i realized one diagram was wrong it all came together nicely and started working no problem
Did you buy a harness or build/ modify your own? I was going to build my own, but have been to busy, so most likely just going to buy a GM performance complete harness, ECM, Pedal, O2's, MAF ect. package. It looks like you cut a 2" harness access hole on the right side of your engine compartment. Fierofly cut his on the left side, but that is in a coupe. Is your harness just a stock, 4'-5' from back of head in length? That was the problem I was having with the Cab, it is really tight back in the back of the car, behind the roll over protection system. I was going to build a super long harness and put the ECM and relays under the passenger seat. But the harness was going to cost way to much to build or buy. I was planning on mounting my ECM in the same location as your, but was going to cut my access hole on the other side. I also am planning to install a pass through positive connection into that same area, so I can provide the ECM and relays with a constant power source. And also connect my GM start and Alt harness to that point for power. My car came without an engine, so it has been a little more challenging, beings I did not remove the Porsche engine and get to see how things where hooked up. I have spent a lot of time in the Bentely manual learning the Porsche side of things.
Mine had an engine in it when i got it i actually drove it into my garage. It just had 2 bad rod bearings. Haha. Im running a psi wiring conversion harness. Its just a universal vortec truck harness. It was pricy but totally worth it. its a little tight in spots under the top right there but it has just enough room for all of that. I cant seem to find any pics of my battery terminals i used but i pretty much did the same thing as rh does with the 2 single terminals on the transmission tunnel with the cable crossing over. Here is a couple more random pics. I have some more on my computer at home but am somewhat limited on my phone
Totally forgot to update my progress on my 911. It has been done for quite some time now. Ended up getting the heads done with the prc stage 2.5 port job and switched to a fast 92 intake with a ls3 throttle body. Had the car on the dyno a couple times. Made 430whp and 380tq n/a. Now it has a nitrous express wet kit on it. On a small shot it made 502whp. Need to upgrade the kit and hit the dyno again. Shooting for close to 600whp this next go. At the track my best time was a 7.6 @ 99mph in the 1/8th on regular street tires with a crappy launch. Hoping to hit 6s when i up the shot! Also for those curious i weighed the car and with the nitrous kit and 3/4 tank of gas no driver it weighs in at 3350lbs
Last edited by kieferskustoms; 10-25-2016 at 02:14 PM.
Great now lets see some video and hear some noise! Just starting mine this week. Lots of info on these forums and burying myself in reading.
Offbeat question - I noticed you added that fast intake - did you have to do any bfh banging to fit it? Has got me thinking if that fits maybe one of those Jenvey or Harrops ITB might fit?
Nope. No hammering required. I did find out that only a fast 92 will fit. The 92 is taller than an ls6 intake so i only have maybe an 1/8" clearance now. I tried a 102 but there was no way it was fitting. The 102 is alot taller than a 92. The itbs might possibly work. I considered that also. I would post a video but in not sure how to get in on this post from my phone
Always a loaded question but what would you estimate the cost is to do a straight swap, not including the price of the car?
I was a little surprised by the overall weight. Guess modern cars have too much stuff to be truly light anymore. Makes me appreciate the 2500# curb weight of my completed swap. Something tells me your swap will be massively more stable at speed than my old Datsun.
I would say i have around $12-15k in the swap including mods. Its actually very easy to work on. Much easier than the factory engine. More room if you can believe that. Lol
05-19-2015, 10:58 AM
possible 1st ever iron block lsx 996 swap 
