2007 CTS-V Build Thread..nothing new but new to me.
#301
Heads back from machine shop(milled .025"). Deburring the chambers and outside edges from the mill. This is my fancy homemade deburring tool. I found it best to steer the tool like a rudder with my dominant hand and push the tool along at the contact point with my other thumb.
#302
Clearanced the heads for the bigger rockers and knocked the little bit of aluminum out of the intake port at the bottom of the rocker bolt hole. The port wall is not much thicker than paper there and while some might say the bolt wouldn't tighten that far down with a rocker there, I preferred to put the bolt all the way down and knock it out to avoid that coming loose in the cylinder later after I've long forgotten about it. Obviously I'll run RTV on the intake rocker bolts.
For the clearancing, I used a cheapie set of tiny carbide cutters I got on Amazon and the hanging, foot-pedal-activated, shaft grinder from Harbor Freight. $39 after coupon. It got uncomfortably hot in the hand after prolonged grinding(like 4-5 spots at a time) but cooled quickly and never really missed a beat. Probably better out there but it did the job for this.
For the clearancing, I used a cheapie set of tiny carbide cutters I got on Amazon and the hanging, foot-pedal-activated, shaft grinder from Harbor Freight. $39 after coupon. It got uncomfortably hot in the hand after prolonged grinding(like 4-5 spots at a time) but cooled quickly and never really missed a beat. Probably better out there but it did the job for this.
Last edited by Mercier; 10-31-2016 at 10:49 AM.
#303
Reassembly. I use this stuff for the valve stems. I give a nice messy bead all the way around the tip of the valve and then a stripe about halfway down the length. The guides fit very tightly so not much actually makes it in there but I spin the valve a bit as I insert it to try to spread as much around in there as possible.
64cc on the nose!
We are ready for final PTV check and bolting them on for the last time for a little while hopefully.
64cc on the nose!
We are ready for final PTV check and bolting them on for the last time for a little while hopefully.
#304
TECH Regular
One of the best and most interesting threads I've ever read here on LS1TECH, congrats bro and stay tuned, we will waiting for the progress with pics!
Regards,
Ronald
Regards,
Ronald
#308
Thanks again, guys.
Trans is here along with flywheel, clutch, bell, etc. Just need to get the engine mounted in the car so I can see what crossmember requirements I'm up against. Then of course measuring for driveshaft. Planning to just loop the in/out of the fluid pump with no cooler while I get things mounted/sorted and then do the cooler later before I do any prolonged thrashing.
Hoping to ride this flu out tomorrow and Friday and actually get the gaskets and covers on this weekend. I had forgotten that the Morel 5452s are about an inch shorter than standard so I ordered the longer adjustable pushrod which just came in. Need to get my wipe pattern down and order pushrods but that should not stop me from dropping the engine in. Pushrods I think are going to be near 8.5" which is interesting.
Probably take a short break one day and do a little cleaning in the engine bay and then it's time to slap it in and pray that I can find all the bolts!
Trans is here along with flywheel, clutch, bell, etc. Just need to get the engine mounted in the car so I can see what crossmember requirements I'm up against. Then of course measuring for driveshaft. Planning to just loop the in/out of the fluid pump with no cooler while I get things mounted/sorted and then do the cooler later before I do any prolonged thrashing.
Hoping to ride this flu out tomorrow and Friday and actually get the gaskets and covers on this weekend. I had forgotten that the Morel 5452s are about an inch shorter than standard so I ordered the longer adjustable pushrod which just came in. Need to get my wipe pattern down and order pushrods but that should not stop me from dropping the engine in. Pushrods I think are going to be near 8.5" which is interesting.
Probably take a short break one day and do a little cleaning in the engine bay and then it's time to slap it in and pray that I can find all the bolts!
Last edited by Mercier; 11-03-2016 at 12:13 PM.
#311
While you're working in the engine bay, I can also show you where to plumb a 4.0" CAI through the sheetmetal behind the driver's side headlight, terminating in the biggest Amsoil air filter available + 6" velocity stack and pre-filter. Performance-wise, it's better than the Lingenfelter kit (which is the best prefab kit you can get for the V1), provides additional space around the engine, and is cheaper than any of the available kits. No worries about water ingestion either--you have to drive up to the wheel lugs in water before you run any risk of pulling water into the motor.
Before you put the radiator in the car, you might also want to consider replacing your brake MC and stock aluminum hardlines with a Wilwood unit, Earl's 3AN SS lines, and 2 lb residual valves. I've been through a couple of different sets of SS brake lines over the past few years (Goodridge and RacingBrake) and think they're overpriced crap. Earlier this week I ordered a dual 11" brake booster to replace the OEM dual 9". Once it gets too cold to wrench every weekend, I'll be creating Solidworks drawings for Z/28 caliper brackets so that I can use the RB Camaro 390/390mm rotor kit with my new wheels in the spring.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 11-05-2016 at 04:09 PM.
#313
The Goodridge kit leaks from day 1 as a result of its design. The RacingBrake kit is better but it flexes a little more than I'd like. All of the kits are too expensive and rely on those stock hard lines and fittings. Earl's lines are tested to 4000 PSI and the last 15" segments cost $19.45 apiece on Summit. If I damage one or the environment starts to get to them, I can replace 7 individual lines for the cost of the Goodridge kit and 8 lines for the cost of the RacingBrake kit.
#314
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Well that's discouraging about the lines! Guess I can scratch that off the list. Have always liked the Russell's I have ran but that's the only brand and they don't make anything for the v!!
Any chance the lines from the camaros would be compatible? Same brake calipers
Any chance the lines from the camaros would be compatible? Same brake calipers
#315
Russell makes some great products but their brake lines are rated for 2500 PSI as opposed to 4000 PSI like Earl's. You can run anything you want provided that buy the right 3AN adapter for your hard lines.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 11-06-2016 at 07:04 AM.
#316
If you need help finding something, let us know. I've replaced most of the bolts in the car with Class 12.9 zinc-aluminum ("armor coated"), 316SS, Grade 5 titanium, or Bumax 88/109. At some point I've gotta take my hand-written notes and put them in Excel to share.
While you're working in the engine bay, I can also show you where to plumb a 4.0" CAI through the sheetmetal behind the driver's side headlight, terminating in the biggest Amsoil air filter available + 6" velocity stack and pre-filter. Performance-wise, it's better than the Lingenfelter kit (which is the best prefab kit you can get for the V1), provides additional space around the engine, and is cheaper than any of the available kits. No worries about water ingestion either--you have to drive up to the wheel lugs in water before you run any risk of pulling water into the motor.
Before you put the radiator in the car, you might also want to consider replacing your brake MC and stock aluminum hardlines with a Wilwood unit, Earl's 3AN SS lines, and 2 lb residual valves. I've been through a couple of different sets of SS brake lines over the past few years (Goodridge and RacingBrake) and think they're overpriced crap. Earlier this week I ordered a dual 11" brake booster to replace the OEM dual 9". Once it gets too cold to wrench every weekend, I'll be creating Solidworks drawings for Z/28 caliper brackets so that I can use the RB Camaro 390/390mm rotor kit with my new wheels in the spring.
While you're working in the engine bay, I can also show you where to plumb a 4.0" CAI through the sheetmetal behind the driver's side headlight, terminating in the biggest Amsoil air filter available + 6" velocity stack and pre-filter. Performance-wise, it's better than the Lingenfelter kit (which is the best prefab kit you can get for the V1), provides additional space around the engine, and is cheaper than any of the available kits. No worries about water ingestion either--you have to drive up to the wheel lugs in water before you run any risk of pulling water into the motor.
Before you put the radiator in the car, you might also want to consider replacing your brake MC and stock aluminum hardlines with a Wilwood unit, Earl's 3AN SS lines, and 2 lb residual valves. I've been through a couple of different sets of SS brake lines over the past few years (Goodridge and RacingBrake) and think they're overpriced crap. Earlier this week I ordered a dual 11" brake booster to replace the OEM dual 9". Once it gets too cold to wrench every weekend, I'll be creating Solidworks drawings for Z/28 caliper brackets so that I can use the RB Camaro 390/390mm rotor kit with my new wheels in the spring.
I will definitely be scratching my head over some of the bolts so will be hitting you up.
Last edited by Mercier; 11-06-2016 at 03:07 PM.
#317
Found my Improved Racing box!
Factory windage tray and pickup after a light scrub. Factory baffle. Factory pan actually has some baffling cast in. IR baffle obviously more capable. Top, bottom. Put a little loctite on these bolts since the pan hopefully won't come off for a while. You can see in the peek-a-boo shot that the IR baffle works with the cast baffles.
Now to learn the stretch gauge on the rod bolts so I can get the scraper installed!
Factory windage tray and pickup after a light scrub. Factory baffle. Factory pan actually has some baffling cast in. IR baffle obviously more capable. Top, bottom. Put a little loctite on these bolts since the pan hopefully won't come off for a while. You can see in the peek-a-boo shot that the IR baffle works with the cast baffles.
Now to learn the stretch gauge on the rod bolts so I can get the scraper installed!
#318
For most people, the shim is going to be the preferred option since it's so simple, but when done properly, having a bigger, adjustable booster is better as it provides more assist for a given amount of pedal effort. Obviously, you don't want to overdo it and be unable to modulate the pedal, but in stock form, the V1 brake system has plenty of room to improve. This weekend I've been experimenting with residual valves on and off. Takes some driving time and an IR thermometer to really understand how much drag they're putting on the system.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 11-06-2016 at 07:45 PM.
#319
This weekend I've been experimenting with residual valves on and off. Takes some driving time and an IR thermometer to really understand how much drag they're putting on the system.
#320
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Sure you can. Too much assist leads to a soft pedal that has no "feel" and is harder to modulate. Whether 49% more assist will get you to that point, I don't know, but it certainly seems like a move in the wrong direction.
I wish that IR baffle had been available back when I was replacing my engine, but unfortunately they didn't release it until a while later.