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Got the front cover clearanced. Did a general cut all the way around the side and then put a little grease on the cover where I could see it was contacting. Rub it a little more, look for the thin spot. Grind some more, clean up, install, install front seal.
I am jealous of the KM toolset. Great build keep it coming.
Thank you. I agonized over the price even used but it's been a great investment. Prevents me from making rookie mistakes even though I've built a few of these already.
Here. Shot this for you. Obviously the digital display isn't quite fast reacting but I have 100psi at 6k rpm. I will get a dash shot with the go pro next time I go to the track or dick around.
Here. Shot this for you. Obviously the digital display isn't quite fast reacting but I have 100psi at 6k rpm. I will get a dash shot with the go pro next time I go to the track or dick around. https://youtu.be/bht6JyQHYyA
It's obviously high because your tires are low. Fill them up and try again.
I had the blue spring and a couple of shims and decided that I am going to still go with the red spring. I have the same in a 45K-mile 24x LS2 in the Jeep and a mechanical gauge and it has gotten to 85-90PSI only when dead cold on a cold day and cruising at about 3500RPM. I'll likely be flogged for this, but if it ends up just silly high, I'll try some 20 weight oil and see how that goes.
EDIT: another factor in my decision is that I'll be running an oil cooler and Accusump pretty soon after I get things sorted. We'll see!
Here. Shot this for you. Obviously the digital display isn't quite fast reacting but I have 100psi at 6k rpm. I will get a dash shot with the go pro next time I go to the track or dick around. https://youtu.be/bht6JyQHYyA
What kind of oil filter do you run? I split several brands on a 73 SD Trans Am I had that would break 100psi cold until I settled on K&Ns and have done the same thing on a 2332VW motor which pushed 90+ cold.
The general rule of thumb back in the day was that anything over 60psi was a waste of time. What's changed?
What kind of oil filter do you run? I split several brands on a 73 SD Trans Am I had that would break 100psi cold until I settled on K&Ns and have done the same thing on a 2332VW motor which pushed 90+ cold.
The general rule of thumb back in the day was that anything over 60psi was a waste of time. What's changed?
I thought the rule of thumb for LS motors was 10 psi per 1000 RPM minimum.
I get 90-92 psi max with a Lingenfelter ported LS6 pump and a shim on the spring. Never ruptured a filter--I run AMSOIL EA15K50-50 filters these days. Have you tried them?
I've had no problems with Pureolator PL14006 filters in the past, if you're looking for a low cost option.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 12-05-2016 at 11:16 AM.
I thought the rule of thumb for LS motors was 10 psi per 1000 RPM minimum.
I get 90-92 psi max with a Lingenfelter ported LS6 pump and a shim on the spring. Never ruptured a filter--I run AMSOIL EA15K50-50 filters these days. Have you tried them?
I've had no problems with Pureolator PL14006 filters in the past, if you're looking for a low cost option.
that would explain my old school 60 psi prescription as many of the cars I've owned relied on size over rpm.
I thought the rule of thumb for LS motors was 10 psi per 1000 RPM minimum.
That's not an LS motor rule of thumb, that's just a general hot rodder's rule of thumb. I've heard that for Fords and Subarus, too (those being the only other two brands I've dealt with over my car tinkering career). Whether there's any actual technical basis to it, I don't know; I'm guessing probably not.
Well, "project $3 fix on $6K intake" has begun. Plan is I am filling the grooves(the broken ones and the non-damaged ones) to just below the surface with JB Weld. I will then run a thin bead of RTV and a flat Fel-Pro 1222 gasket and figure it should seal.
Also time to finally buy some big-boy engine bags. Have used a big garbage bag so far but with heads and intake, it wasn't happening anymore.
Come along and cringe with me as I perform almost irreversible sloppy surgery on a part that I can't afford to replace if I screw it up!
Hell, I didn't even know those engine bags existed! I need to grab a couple of those. I've got a spare Subaru H6 short-block sitting in my garage - the flat design makes it wide (even without heads), so garbage bags don't fit very well.
Apparently the previous owner had the pan off. Looks like in an effort to grind away the pan gasket rivet, they took a bit of the pan rail off, too. If I had more patience, I'd order a new pan. Decided to just fill it in with RTV and see how it goes.
Also when i was installing the pan studs, I didn't realize that the V doesn't use one of the attachment points. This stud(finger) came back out. I considered drilling the pan for it but not enough meat there I think.
RTV in the corners, use the front/rear cover alignment tool to ensure it is square with the back of the block. This is your bottom bellhousing/scattershield bolts so pretty important alignment if you want your drivetrain to be happy and last.
I have been using k&n filters with amsoil for oil. Bu I will be switching to the amsoil filters as well. After reading up on them they are far superior to every other filter. That video is not cold idle. That's hot. Oil was 110 and coolant at 180 ish. So yeah.
As far as using thinner oil OP I'd also caution against that as well. After having this problem that was the first thing I looked into. And it seems you run the higher risk of (I think they called it lube wash?) meaning under high temps and spirited driving the oil would wash out of the bearings and create zero film barrier. So for DD and the occasional high rpm hits I'm sure it would be fine. But since I track my car frequently the idea of changing oil that often for the occasion was very unappealing. So in went 5-30 and deal with it. Again, it causes no issues. It's just a power robber.
As far as the oil filter bursting.... unlikely. Unless you're using a cheap brand filter all the higher name brands have a 2+ safety factor so it would take ~200 psi before I'd worry. And even then you'd see thenoil filter ballooned out first. Assuming you checked.
JB Weld and all, that ITB set up is ****. Keep up the goo(e)d work!
LOL! And I agree. This is an excellent thread, too. This will be one badass V when you're all done! Thanks for sharing all the details along the way. Very entertaining and informative.
11-30-2016, 10:28 PM
