Anthony Toal

Hell, I wish i had that, the OTC worked great, though it didnt have the right bolts for the ATI, and the adapter for the installer is to short to thread into the crank, had to gently tap it in until I could get the older crank bolt to drive it in.

I think I summed up my valve train noise to the typical "sewing machine" noise due to the lobes of my cam. I will check lash when I do my plugs before the tune. I think my only other issue is an 02 sensor going out on me.

Choppy_Idle

Can i rent this Women in vid with that tool?

Greetz
Ron

Anthony Toal

So I change the spark plugs, checked lashes, fixed my 02 sensor and stopped a water leak. Today is D Day, let see what i end up breaking. Anyone wanna guess numbers? This will be on pumped gas

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Is your exhaust clamped or welded after the headers?

Anthony Toal

Clamped

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Mine is too, after the catted connectors. I think it's leaking around the clamps and the ticking is added to there. We do have noisy valve trains, but I think part of that is exhaust leak. I took it to an exhaust shop, had it up on the lift to listen for leaks around the clamps though, and both guys were like, "nawww, it's just valve noise." I don't think they wanted to do the work anyway. I guess they didn't realize that you could unbolt it at the front, lower it down, and have easy access to the whole pipe. I'll take it to another shop someday.

Anthony Toal

Yea, I have thought of that as well, but I also use aluminum high temp silicone when I slide the pipes on, makes a bitch to get off, but it helps a lot, I know I have to get new header gaskets as well, but that will happen when I go to wrap the headers. I think it is valve slap, you can hear it through the intake and it sounds exactly like a sowing machine.

Anthony Toal

Barely just made it under my goal, but pretty happy for this N/A Motor

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Hellyeah good numbers

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Solid!

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

That thing is going to shred some tires!

Anthony Toal

Thnx all, and thnx to everyone who helped me get this right. I will be trying to figure out now how to squeeze another 16hp to reach my goal off 500

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Very nice. Carried well past peak too. What RPM exactly did it record peak power at?

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

What MAF are you using? Use a bigger one like the TSP one if you're not already...though they are tricky to tune, esp for idle/low speed. You could Mamo-port the FAST and likely get there with just that. Use a lighter flywheel, Monster's Al one would net you a few. Could probably pick up a few at the tire with a CF one piece shaft. What wheels and tires are you running?

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Have you considered the mid-length runners for the FAST? That would shift power up in the RPM range. RPM generally = HP if the parts support it. You would lose a little down low but you're probably traction-limited a bit there anyway. Just a thought. Steve(05CTSV here) bought my mid-runner FAST before I ever ran it. He made pretty good power with it though on a stroker. Some info and banter here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...intake-11.html

Actual results in the latter pages of the thread.

Anthony Toal

6.6k for peak

Anthony Toal

I am using stock MAF at the moment, I am running 4" pip all the way to the TB, so I can see it restricting that much. It will be harder for me to go with a lighter flywheel, with such a big cam and light flywheel, it wouldnt be streeetable. Stock tires, i didnt see any slippage, but will be trying to go 275 up front and 295 rear here soon

Anthony Toal

I think what would help if I bring the curve further back. It looks like I still have some headway on the top end, so If i can shift everything to the left that would be great, but only it it was that easy.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

If I understand you right(left), you are saying more power with less RPM. Everyone would like that but it's not usually how things work. Or am I thinking "other left?"

Anthony Toal

no your correct, that is why I state it isnt that easy. My cam is meant for high end to begin with. I know the easy way would be to increase flow for higher RPMs, but like you said, my lower end would suffer and I like that torque curve where it is at. My option are kind of limited, either reduce parasitic loss in the drive line, get a UD dampener, make it breath better or just shove nitrous down its throat. I will get a few more power out of it has it breaks in a little more and go full synthetic when the motor is ready. I might do the wheel bearings, they are original, so there may be a slight parasitic loss there, very slight I would imagine. Rotational mass would be another idea, rotors, go CF driveshaft instead of AL. This is where things would get costly