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From what I have read, the cruise is a separate computer, so it should not be affected in the F-body. However, there are certain things which can cancel the cruise function, such as the brake switch, clutch switch, and even the CHMSL is integral where putting LED bulbs back there can cause cruise to malfunction. One of these may be your issue.
Clutch is still in the car, and I have to have it depressed to start the car as I dont have a neutral safety switch.Brake switch etc didnt change.
I drive this car a lot, and I drive it to meets all over the state, and already tired of holding the gas on the highway after only a hundred miles or so. Im thinking about just adding an aftermarket cruise control, but I dont know that it would work, seeing as it may feed off of whatever sensor or wiring that is currently causing it not to have cruise.
I have searched and searched and just cannot find a good answer on this. SOMEONE has to have swapped a 4l80e and got the cruise to work. Help!
If you look up under the dash, you'll see a Y-harness that plugs into two white switches coming off the main dash harness, one on the brake, one on the clutch. Those are the cruise cancel switches. On a T56 car, one or the other will turn off cruise control. On an automatic car, only the brake does it, so it uses a different jumper harness. You can head to the junkyard and take one, or just chop yours and splice it so it completes a single circuit.
That's good info Spartan7. I am converting my TA from auto to manual, and I wish for the clutch to cancel the cruise when I press it. Will I need to swap this piece or splice?
As a non-LS aside, my 2.2L S10 5-speed won't cancel cruise when the clutch is depressed. I wonder if there may be a similar issue at play.
Okay, I pulled a full manual pedal set with wires from a junkyard car. My old automatic cable is pictured on the floor mat, the manual set is in my hand. The brake is plugged in at the top with the black connector, however the white connector on the right has nowhere to plug into. I can splice it somewhere, as I have both sides of the harness. Or I can loop everything in series, but the clutch cancel switch has 4 wires, not just two.
There is another switch (black, not pictured) which only gets triggered when the clutch is fully depressed. I thought this one was to prevent starts without the clutch engaged.
So the pink and brown should be wired in series with the brake cancel. And the purple/white and dark green pair go to where?
I have run one extra cable off the computer (plus a ground) which I assumed will be wired in to the black switch, but I haven't got that far in the swap yet.
There is another switch (black, not pictured) which only gets triggered when the clutch is fully depressed. I thought this one was to prevent starts without the clutch engaged.
Yep, that's the clutch safety switch that prevents starting.
The big switch you have labeled as "clutch cruise" is the brake switch, for your brake lights. The two other smaller two-pin white switches, one on each pedal, are both for the cruise cancel. Just use the one on the brake pedal with that single pigtail harness lying on the carpet. You can ignore the other.
Yep, that's the clutch safety switch that prevents starting.
The big switch you have labeled as "clutch cruise" is the brake switch, for your brake lights. The two other smaller two-pin white switches, one on each pedal, are both for the cruise cancel. Just use the one on the brake pedal with that single pigtail harness lying on the carpet. You can ignore the other.
I don't think that is correct, unless the manual cars have a completely different brake switch than the auto cars, and I got the connectors mixed up. Here is what the brake switch looks like on my car (from the auto, but I think it can fit the manual):