Stock aluminum block modifications
#43
Please PM info on HGs.
#44
9 Second Club
I'm on board with this thought process most of the time. With that said I think I'm going to select a 10:1 combo and see what happens. I like how well the Athena style gaskets seal but I don't want to deal with shaving the head down every or every other time the head comes off. 1/2" studs seems like a good idea but you need to align hone the block after and that's more $$ too. What do the aged studs go for? $1000? I read they have a higher clamping force than the 1/2" studs. So depending on your machine shop rates it could be cheaper to go with the aged studs.
With that said the question is which is more effective on a stock casting? As we all know they like to lift in the center anyways. Maybe it is a waste of time on stock heads but I like seeing what they can take.
With that said the question is which is more effective on a stock casting? As we all know they like to lift in the center anyways. Maybe it is a waste of time on stock heads but I like seeing what they can take.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1618065823...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
But price does seem to vary wildly with different sellers and at different times...and a listing doesnt mean they actually have stock.
I tried a couple of years ago to buy them from 2 different sources, and even after waiting months, neither were able to supply so I gave up.
Instructions for the 625's say 100lbft, so if the 1/2's can go to 110-115...you could assume they would be better.
The thread on YB etc says Ford Cleveland ARP 1/2" studs can fit an LS ( they're a little long, but they fit ) and are very cheap. But yea they require machining.
Line boring too ? Not sure I'd say that is essential ?
Other more expensive option is LS9 block, stronger material, pinned billet caps ?, oil squirters and M12 head fasteners from the factory. Sounds like a real solid base to start from, even better if they could be had second hand for sensible money
#45
8 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Cheapest I found the 625's a while ago was this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1618065823...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
But price does seem to vary wildly with different sellers and at different times...and a listing doesnt mean they actually have stock.
I tried a couple of years ago to buy them from 2 different sources, and even after waiting months, neither were able to supply so I gave up.
Instructions for the 625's say 100lbft, so if the 1/2's can go to 110-115...you could assume they would be better.
The thread on YB etc says Ford Cleveland ARP 1/2" studs can fit an LS ( they're a little long, but they fit ) and are very cheap. But yea they require machining.
Line boring too ? Not sure I'd say that is essential ?
Other more expensive option is LS9 block, stronger material, pinned billet caps ?, oil squirters and M12 head fasteners from the factory. Sounds like a real solid base to start from, even better if they could be had second hand for sensible money
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1618065823...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
But price does seem to vary wildly with different sellers and at different times...and a listing doesnt mean they actually have stock.
I tried a couple of years ago to buy them from 2 different sources, and even after waiting months, neither were able to supply so I gave up.
Instructions for the 625's say 100lbft, so if the 1/2's can go to 110-115...you could assume they would be better.
The thread on YB etc says Ford Cleveland ARP 1/2" studs can fit an LS ( they're a little long, but they fit ) and are very cheap. But yea they require machining.
Line boring too ? Not sure I'd say that is essential ?
Other more expensive option is LS9 block, stronger material, pinned billet caps ?, oil squirters and M12 head fasteners from the factory. Sounds like a real solid base to start from, even better if they could be had second hand for sensible money
#47
Originally Posted by tvanlant
I did a half-fill of hardblok on my LS2 block, and pinned the main caps. Everything is working great so far, but I haven't really leaned on it yet (only 8.82 @ 155mph, 3500lbs, 23 psi). Coolant temps went down because the water isn't pulling heat out of the lower end. I added an oil cooler and oil temp sensor in the pan in fear of the oil overheating. Oil only gets to 150-180* on a long drive. Setrab smallish cooler.