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Curious to hear from those of you who have REAL WORLD experience with a few of these techniques.
1. Water jacket plugs
2. Filler
3. O-rings
I am considering these modifications to my 06' 5.3 block and wanted to hear from some of you guys who have toyed with these modifications. I probably won't block fill as I plan to street drive the car very very often. With that said have any of you guys run jacket plugs and half fill? I'd be curious to hear what the coolant temps look like.
The car really won't see much more than 1000whp so I'm aware most of this is overkill but I'd like to build this one on a budget and insure some reliability. These modifications are inexpensive and easy for me to either do myself or get done.
Surely 1/2 studs and LS9 gaskets should see a very very reliable setup ? and cost effective.
Or the CA625's and no machining ?
1/2" studs are around $350 for the machining so that is defiantly an option. The only real issue I see there is the fact that I'm dealing with a factory casting and we all know they like to lift in between the studs. There isn't a ton that a 1/2" stud can do for that. I think the O-ring on the sleeve would better address that.
With that said maybe the 1/2" studs are enough to "reliably" keep the 243's down at 1000whp. I was hoping to hear from some people who have experimented with these methods.
Aged studs are a great option too but are pricey and still present the same issues noted previously. What do a set of regular ARP studs go for these days?
1/2" studs are around $350 for the machining so that is defiantly an option. The only real issue I see there is the fact that I'm dealing with a factory casting and we all know they like to lift in between the studs. There isn't a ton that a 1/2" stud can do for that. I think the O-ring on the sleeve would better address that.
With that said maybe the 1/2" studs are enough to "reliably" keep the 243's down at 1000whp. I was hoping to hear from some people who have experimented with these methods.
Aged studs are a great option too but are pricey and still present the same issues noted previously. What do a set of regular ARP studs go for these days?
That post a while back where someone had pressure paper with various studs being used to show the difference in clamp/pressure over various areas of the gasket.
The difference between a regular ARP stud and the 1/2" on the paper was quite considerable everywhere. ( I guess that should then be comparable to 625's too ? )
Given 11mm studs and LS9 gaskets work very well even around 1k and a little beyond, the 1/2" studs should be a very good improvement.
As to how much the actual heads factor into that though, no idea.
1/2" studs are around $350 for the machining so that is defiantly an option. The only real issue I see there is the fact that I'm dealing with a factory casting and we all know they like to lift in between the studs. There isn't a ton that a 1/2" stud can do for that. I think the O-ring on the sleeve would better address that.
With that said maybe the 1/2" studs are enough to "reliably" keep the 243's down at 1000whp. I was hoping to hear from some people who have experimented with these methods.
Aged studs are a great option too but are pricey and still present the same issues noted previously. What do a set of regular ARP studs go for these days?
What is the deck thickness on 243s compared to .750" aftermarket? I'm a little concerned with LS9s on small bore alum since gasket bore is at at the outer edge of the sleeve. I do like the idea of the LS9 gasket bore being out closer to head bolt circle for more stable clamping force. What heads and studs were used on the L33 (filled) orange mustang that was pushing 40+ (on methonal)? If I recall, they were using Felpro Permatorque gaskets for 5.3 bore.
That post a while back where someone had pressure paper with various studs being used to show the difference in clamp/pressure over various areas of the gasket.
The difference between a regular ARP stud and the 1/2" on the paper was quite considerable everywhere. ( I guess that should then be comparable to 625's too ? )
Given 11mm studs and LS9 gaskets work very well even around 1k and a little beyond, the 1/2" studs should be a very good improvement.
As to how much the actual heads factor into that though, no idea.
That was one of the best posts I've seen on this site. I guess the real question at this point is to O-Ring it or go with the half inch studs.
What is the deck thickness on 243s compared to .750" aftermarket? I'm a little concerned with LS9s on small bore alum since gasket bore is at at the outer edge of the sleeve. I do like the idea of the LS9 gasket bore being out closer to head bolt circle for more stable clamping force. What heads and studs were used on the L33 (filled) orange mustang that was pushing 40+ (on methonal)? If I recall, they were using Felpro Permatorque gaskets for 5.3 bore.
I think I'm going to stay away from the LS9's this go round and use a cometic or something better suited for what I'm trying to do. I'll measure the deck on these 243's and see what the difference is.
1/2" studs are around $350 for the machining so that is defiantly an option. The only real issue I see there is the fact that I'm dealing with a factory casting and we all know they like to lift in between the studs. There isn't a ton that a 1/2" stud can do for that. I think the O-ring on the sleeve would better address that.
With that said maybe the 1/2" studs are enough to "reliably" keep the 243's down at 1000whp. I was hoping to hear from some people who have experimented with these methods.
Aged studs are a great option too but are pricey and still present the same issues noted previously. What do a set of regular ARP studs go for these days?
If you lift or torch heads at 1000hp then you have another issue, usually seen from people cranking timing up. From what I've seen you'll scrap the block or crank before you lift a head with a basic setup with forged rods and pistons. Regular ARP studs and LS9 gaskets easily hold 30+PSI and 1000+hp on stock 317 heads. Define reliable, a year of beating the crap out of it with no maintenance enough?
If you go to the trouble and expense of running 1/2" studs, filler, and o-rings then run some thicker deck heads and make it all worth it by making more then 1000hp.
If you lift or torch heads at 1000hp then you have another issue, usually seen from people cranking timing up. From what I've seen you'll scrap the block or crank before you lift a head with a basic setup with forged rods and pistons. Regular ARP studs and LS9 gaskets easily hold 30+PSI and 1000+hp on stock 317 heads. Define reliable, a year of beating the crap out of it with no maintenance enough?
If you go to the trouble and expense of running 1/2" studs, filler, and o-rings then run some thicker deck heads and make it all worth it by making more then 1000hp.
This is my struggle. I ran my old motor out the back on 28-29lbs no problems for awhile. That was your basic ARP 2000/LS9 setup. I guess the added **** like fill, 1/2" studs, O-rings etc. are an insurance policy in case of critical system failure. As much as I'd like to turn it up past 1000whp I really don't want the BS that comes with it. I'd be happy with a "reliable" 1000whp car. "Reliable" meaning changing the oil/plugs and be done with it. I don't mind pulling the motor once a year/year and half to check for wear but the goal is to not **** with the motor frequently. With that said I will be beating on it at least once a month.
HI OSCS, yes as I have worked with Butch Meyer on the Buick Indy Engine.
Your question for the HP requested :
1. Felpro 1041 HG
2. China Studs, stock diameter.
3. Option to fit BFG O-rings INSIDE the 1041 if bore is close to stock.
The BEST METHOD for a 3000 HP is to fit BFG Sealing rings filled with Nitrogen AND fit China Studs as they will grow at the AL expansion rate.
The GEN IV 5.3 AL block has VERY THICK walls, just "sonic" test for a quality inspection.
NOW YOUR PROBLEM will be the Main Caps, fit steel caps with studs and Align Bore/Align Hone only (???) with some luck.
I do not believe you need to rock the block at 1/2 wall length though many European engine "cast" to 1/2 wall length.
Does your crankshaft 2006 have the 58x TW ?
Fit a good Ignition Coil to PREVENT missfire.
I would run a Autolite 3922x Racing Plug.
This is my struggle. I ran my old motor out the back on 28-29lbs no problems for awhile. That was your basic ARP 2000/LS9 setup. I guess the added **** like fill, 1/2" studs, O-rings etc. are an insurance policy in case of critical system failure. As much as I'd like to turn it up past 1000whp I really don't want the BS that comes with it. I'd be happy with a "reliable" 1000whp car. "Reliable" meaning changing the oil/plugs and be done with it. I don't mind pulling the motor once a year/year and half to check for wear but the goal is to not **** with the motor frequently. With that said I will be beating on it at least once a month.
One very simple thing to assist reliability....keep the CR to a more sensible level.
Obviously o-rings can work too....there just seem to be many variables with them. Ho thick ring, how deep any grooves, and what type of gasket works best ?
That **** is a lot of trial and error.
Drop the CR a little, big studs, LS9 gaskets. It just works, it's simple, no trial and error etc.
People seem to forget or ignore these basics with the current high CR fascination.
They use a stainless ring with 3 cutters machined in the top of the ring. When you torque the head down the rings cut into the head 0.004. The graphite gasket seals the oil and water. I have been using these with great success for the past few years along with 15+ other setups. They require no machine work to run them. My setup has been pushed to 38psi on 4bolt heads and not a sign of lifting a head. The vendor that makes these is NOT a sponser on tech so I cant say. I used to import them from Sweden from Andreas but now they are made in Texas with a few design upgrades. Here are some pics of a head that was using them. You can see how they cut into the head.
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Stock aluminum block modifications 
