BaMaDuDe87

Drum roll please......after a four, yes 4, month wait on coated Kooks headers from Maryland Speed they have finally made it to my house..........Never again will I buy from Maryland Speed or Kooks

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Kooks isn't the problem.

BaMaDuDe87

Kooks has MS listed on their website as a distributer. I even emailed them to double check. When I contacted Kooks to let them know my problems, and try to get some insight to any delays they might be having, with MS getting products it was radio silence. Ride together, die together.

Mike ctsV

Glad u finally got them atleast

isis

iTrader: (1)

Maryland Speed took about 8 weeks to get me my B&B catback after a ~2 week quote. Pretty sure it was a drop ship anyway. So logistics. Add a process and **** i can see the weeks pile up

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Ms is a company that is dubiously notorious for bad lead times. They got me years back, and of course most don't figure it out until after they have given money

BaMaDuDe87

Yea I read the stories and didn't take the warnings that hard, but for what I paid I took a chance. When I got fed up I was already in over 2 months, so I figured it would be at least that getting a refund and going elsewhere for headers/cats so I just rode it out.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The lesson learned with Maryland Speed is only order if you're willling to wait 2 months or they tell you it's in stock and can ship immediately. I got my 3" green cats and x-pipe in about 3 days after ordering from them because they had it on hand, whereas my headers took about 2 months. I suspect they're able to offer better prices because they wait until they have a bunch ready to go and order in bulk.

Hoarder's Garage

Bought it yesterday!

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Damn, that things look clean & straight! What mileage has it got on it?

Hoarder's Garage

She has been well taken care of. Has 139K miles. Paid $10k.

Nazark_18

Weather was shitty so I gave her a bath, claybar, and a coat of wax.

EastTnZ28

iTrader: (20)

I put in a cheap 10" subwoofer. I cut the center out of the factory sub and mounted this cheapo in the factory location. I put some 3/8" foam around the frame that might help with rattling.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I wasn't able to utilize the stock plastic baffle. I ended up using a piece of scrap MDF and countersunk the bolts to fit over the stock mounting stubs. It was much more solid after that. Then I used peel n seal roofing product (the poor man's dampening) and put pieces of that all over the top and underside of the deck. I also had to stuff material under the XM receiver plastic to keep that quiet. 5+ years later and it's still pretty rattle-free.

EastTnZ28

iTrader: (20)

I had planned on using the mdf but cutting the outer ring off the old sub was perfect. I read were people struggled putting in a replacement sub, but it was way easy. Took longer to take out the seat and back panel than install the speaker.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

To eliminate rattle, you have to remove all the plastic and remount all of the components using MDF, isolation mounts, or combined CLD+MLV+3M hook & loop. My old Infinity 1062W ripped the plastic mounting tray to shreds. There's no way to preserve the OEM trunk light so it has to be replaced with a separate COTS unit. I used a light bar tucked on the underside.


10" Image Dynamics ID10d4 V.3, prior to CLD application


Bad picture, not showing all the CLD in the deck area or the electronics mounting solutions

Once you enlarge the hole with a nibbler tool, you may be able to install a 12" subwoofer. The only limitation is your ability to slide the subwoofer between the rear glass and the deck. Some longer 10" subwoofers will not fit, as I discovered a couple of years ago. I'm 99% sure a IDQ12 V.4 will fit, but have serious doubts about something like a IDMAX10 or 12 unless you disassemble it prior to installation.

EastTnZ28

iTrader: (20)

Yours looks good but I know it was a lot of work. I was just looking for a simple solution. The stocker had turned to mush and just needed replaced and this one was like $30. If it rattles too much, which I hope it dosent, Ill keep turning it down til its minimal. And so you know a Kicker 12" Comp S will go between the glass and the hole but you would have to open up the hole quit a bit. Hence why I bought the cheap 10".

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I think you'll find that it's an improvement at first and disappointing later. The OEM amplifier is weak and the thing is so integrated with other systems that efficient solutions (e.g. replacing the head unit entirely) are not possible if you want to maintain the functionality of the system. Heavymetals half-assed a solution (which is infinitely further than anyone else got, to his credit). But if this car is going to be well-regarded moving forward, we need a couple of electrical engineers with a lot of free time to engineer a large format screen replacement. But first we've got to show that V1 has something to offer that the V2 and V3 can't--make it worth the time investment.

EastTnZ28

iTrader: (20)

I've replaced all speakers, new wire and a aftermarket amp. I ran into a wicked VATS problem and had to replace everything. Had to replace power window switches too. Its a long story but a f*@$ ton of work

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

It's what stops a **** load of us from touching any of the sound components. I love all the jbl stuff I have had over the years and have a fairly extensive set up in the house and the rest of the cars. Not worth it yet on this car,Too much I refuse to give up. Have heard before from a couple people that comp move will still work but I doubt buy it.