4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Working on a ls swapped car, trans is rebuilt, clutch is a rebuilt diamond clutch. New Luk slave shimmed to .073 gap, new master is a 7/8” bore and has 1 3/8” stroke. I’ve bled it and have a solid pedal the whole way down. I can start it and try to put it in gear but it won’t go but the car starts to move. I’m about to drill a hole in the bellhousing to get a visual to see if the slave is moving completely. Besides that I’m lost. I’m hoping by posting someone will see the where I’m off.

I’ve pulled the trans twice to measure and adjust the shim on the slave to achieve the .073 gap after re-reading the shim thread. At the point Im wondering if my rebuilt clutch is the culprit.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Here's s couple thoughts:

That 073 gap is tight. As the clutch wears you'll lose gap. Consider reshimming to get to .105-.125.

A couple years back there was a thread on this, and it went on for a while, and in the end it turned out the disc was backwards.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

While I agree it’s kinda tight, according to Tick .0625-.125 is acceptable. Will the hub of the clutch disc let you bolt it on backwards?

stevieturbo

7/8" bore MC and 1 3/8" stroke is moving a hell of a lot of fluid.

IIRC stock FBody setup is only 3/4" bore and 1" stroke at the master.

As long as you have some gap at all......that is not the cause of your current problem.

Do you have any access at all to view the clutch/friction plate from below ? Or via a small hole in the bellhousing ?

ie have someone press the clutch pedal down whilst you view to see if the friction disc is being released.

nmass399

I’ve taken the starter out before and taken a mirror and light to look at the side of the clutch assembly. I had someone press the pedal in and out for me to see what it looked like.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

I knew the stock master was 3/4” and the Tick was 7/8” but I wasn’t sure of the stroke. I can adjust the rod on my master to bring the stroke down and adjust the stop. After learning that Im leaning towards having issues with the clutch itself. That stinks because I had the flywheel and pressure plate turned and a new disc. I’ll pull the starter and see if I can see tell what’s going on.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Ended up with a small viewport hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. Looks like the slave is close to being bottomed out at a rest and has about 1/2” of travel. It’s hard to tell from an angle but I could sneak a 1/2” wide tape close to it. While it kind of makes me think I don’t have it bled enough, I’ve got a firm pedal the whole travel. Possible pressure plate/finger issue? I’ll get my helper to work the clutch pedal while I watch the slave move.

stevieturbo

Even if the slave was bottomed out, that shouldnt lead to s scenario where it would not release. It might slip very early though.

And 1/2" of travel at the fingers/bearing is a good number and the cover should be releasing.

Again if you can try and get a viewpoint past the edge of the cover to see the friction disc itself, you can see if it is actually releasing, or able to move when clutch is pressed.

Sure the disc isnt seized onto the splines, friction disc correct way round etc ?

nmass399

I agree with him if you can see the clutch assembly from the side it will give you a good idea how the disc is staying against the pressure plate or flywheel. The few possibilities that come to mind of what the problem could be is... disc is bent, disc is in backwards, disc is not sliding on input shaft, bolts contacting the disc.

This is the type of mirror I use and the small version of the mag light in the starter pocket to see the disc move. I shine the light into the mirror so it will light up where I’m looking. It takes a little time to get it positioned correctly to see the disc moving but once you do your able to see how much the pressure plate is moving and if the disc is staying on the flywheel or pressure plate.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Should there be an air gap between the friction disc and either the pressure plate or flywheel when the clutch is pressed?

stevieturbo

Yes..

nmass399

Mine normally has a small gap between one and a large gap between the other. It’s been a while since I’ve done that so I can’t give you a good description.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

No helper so I propped the pedal down with a 2x4 wedged into the from seat. With an inspection mirror and checking a couple of times, I’ve got a 1/16” gap with the pedal pushed between the disc and pressure plate but can’t see any between the disc and flywheel. Slave travels roughly 1/2”. So, disc dragging on input shaft. ****, I don’t want to pull the trans again.

Is it possible to damage the pressure plate in my situation?

After spinning the motor over and looking at the gap, it appears to be the same all the way around which might rule out a bent disc.

stevieturbo

With the pedal pressed, can you get a thin screw driver in there and see if the friction disc will move at all ?

Are you sure the disc is in the correct way around ? Although usually clearance is less on the flywheel side so if it was wrong it is more likely to be forced against the cover rather than the flywheel.

There shouldnt really be anything except a spline issue that would force it against the flywheel.

And anything is possible.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Pulled the trans last night. I noticed two things, the pressure plate bolts take a 17mm socket and have a large head. They are pretty close to the disc, so I’ll try some Allen head or reduced head bolts. Other thing I noticed is the disc has some play on the input shaft of the trans. To much? I don’t know

stevieturbo

The pressure plate bolts are close to the disc ??? Exactly what clutch are you using, they should be nowhere near the disc on any clutch.

The friction disc should be able to move freely on the splines...although obviously it shouldnt have a load of clearance.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

I picked up a used stage 2 Diamond clutch and had the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced. The clutch shop put new friction material on the disc but it looks almost like a stock disc, he said it’s pretty good material. I don’t have a stock disc to compare it to but I’ll take some measurements this evening

nmass399

Any update on it, those 17 mm bolt heads are a little large. I would have to check but stock is either 15 mm or 13 mm.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, checked the disc and it fits the pressure plate mounting surface pretty good. I measured the disc and it was close to 11 7/8” in diameter. I ordered ARP pressure plate bolts and stuck them in but wasn’t satisfied with the clearance still. So, I put some socket head bolts in with locktite and torqued. After that I adjusted my slave spacer and opened up the gap to .124”. Hopefully I’ll get the trans stabbed tomorrow and I’ll check it again.

stevieturbo

Again it makes no sense at all that any bolts anywhere should be anywhere near the friction disc.

Something is fucked up there.