Good read on ducts and "ram air'

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/air-d...mp-reader-card

 

Ok guys.....getting this front end project wrapped up now. Will update some pics in a few days.

 

That's my excuse for keeping dirty cars lol

 

Hio....any updates?


also anyone mention putting plexiglass on the spoiler to the hatch to cover the gap so no air goes under the spoiler? (trans am)

any how-to on a rear belly pan? sheet aluminum and rivets or self tapper?

still interested in improving 4th aero. do the wheel well gurneys actually help?

 

Check this car out and its build. Very innovative and functional

MAXX2 Racing 99 Formula
https://www.facebook.com/groups/408137802673551/

 

Yea guys....sorry i meant to hit this thread and it slipped my mind. I'll get some pics today.

 

Here ya go

 

And another

 

Good work Hio! Car should pick up decent with the upgrades.

 

Nicely done. I'm using your pictures as ideas for belly pans. I'm planning to go front bumper all the way back to the K-member though.

 

Thanks guys

I thought about goin there.....one could for sure. What you run into is the bottom of the k is lower than the nose of the car. You want some rake in your pan from front to rear or you will get lift......you don't want that. So by goin all the way to the k it creates a dam for the air at the k. Because your panel will be above the bottom of the k.

I may try a panel goin from the rad support to the k after i get my tube k. Also realistically there is a point of diminishing returns here.

 

I see your point there. Would you have any idea how much height difference there is between the nose and the K member vertically speaking? Plus given the length required to span this area is roughly 4-5ft? So a 2" rise over a 5ft span is 1.9*...I'm no aero guru but I feel that is acceptable for us mere mortal backyard mechanics.

At 5ft span:
2" rise = 1.9*
4" rise = 3.8*
6" rise = 5.7*

Wondering if one could attach to the k member then drop from the front of the pan using spacers and find a way to fill the gap between the bumper and pan at the front to make the pan level if anything.

BUT, if one was able to quantify the possible lift you get from an upward angled front pan and compare that to the down force you might get from going to a ducted radiator through the hood....maybe they equal out? Maybe not? Only NASA will know! I kidd I kidd. This is also assuming upwards of 80+mph where any of this may take effect.

 

Aero can take effect in as little as 40mph.

I have some rake in mine. I dont remember exhactly how much. Not alot because i wasn't looking for downforce or i woulda put tunnels in it. Just enough to keep it from packing.

I used the rk sport front lip on mine to get the front body low enough o mount the pan to. If not it would have been goin downhill to the rad support instead of slightly uphill......that woulda been no good.

I tell ya. From the nose to the k is a pretty damn big span. Overhang on these cars are huge compared to newer cars.

 

Screw the belly pans. That air box!

 

The duggy box

 

Do tell do tell...my intent is functional aero for autocross...so 40-60mph depending on the course.

 

Nothing really to tell. No doubt no type of aero us gonna have much impact at 40mph. But it's gotta start somewhere. Lots of cars out on the roads today with some pretty decent aero work that was never intended to be a hotrod.

Of course as speeds increase. The effectiveness go's up. Autocrossing wouldn't see much benefits unless it was very large wings, splitters, gurney lips, diveplanes at the typical autox speeds. But that doesn't mean it's not there.

 

Took a couple measurements for you guys. I have about 1" of rake over a 23" span to get from the tip of the nose to the back of the bottom of the rad support. The side panels in front of the wheels are extended further to the wheel well at about 28" long. Extending the center to the k is a no go unless you significantly lowered the front body.

 

Got ya. I was about to take measurements today of the bumper height difference today. I'm not ready to tackle dropping the nose down THAT far to make it level with the k member.

I'm lowered on coilers so if needed I CAN adjust ride height if the nose gets too low. Still trying to keep this DD friendly.

Something like what Jon did here may be needed:
http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/S.../Splitter.html

 

To get the nose lower there where i am and still be dd friendly would be a oxymoron. ....lol

I've rubbed in a few spots as it is.