Has anyone tried the FItech 70050/70051
#402
TECH Enthusiast
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nope. you can run one, the fitech software will just make global changes to the engine fuel wise. Basically you won't have bank 1 and bank 2 separate fuel tuning. I only run one but Its in my turbo downpipe which is merged anyways.
Most 02s have a standard 18mm thread pitch so they will usually all thread into any 02 bung. The beetle 02 is essentially just a bosch WB02... used in the turbo beetle application.
You will need the MAP sensor Adapter if your planning on running a stock style MAP, but you will need to get the GM LS9 3 BAR MAP sensor for your Fitech to work correctly... word is now the new kits come with a bosch 3BAR MAP sensor. You have to run a 3 bar map due to the tuning in the PCM which is preset for the 3 bar. Running a 1 bar stock sensor will cause lots of issues since all the voltage to pressure will be WAYYY off.
BTW your 500+hp 370 is nothing for the Fitech... I make more than that on my 5.3 with the Fitech... guessing around 650-700hp. IMPATIENT1 above is going to making alot more lol. The Fitech will work on your cammed 5.3 and your wild 370 without any hesitation.
Most 02s have a standard 18mm thread pitch so they will usually all thread into any 02 bung. The beetle 02 is essentially just a bosch WB02... used in the turbo beetle application.
You will need the MAP sensor Adapter if your planning on running a stock style MAP, but you will need to get the GM LS9 3 BAR MAP sensor for your Fitech to work correctly... word is now the new kits come with a bosch 3BAR MAP sensor. You have to run a 3 bar map due to the tuning in the PCM which is preset for the 3 bar. Running a 1 bar stock sensor will cause lots of issues since all the voltage to pressure will be WAYYY off.
BTW your 500+hp 370 is nothing for the Fitech... I make more than that on my 5.3 with the Fitech... guessing around 650-700hp. IMPATIENT1 above is going to making alot more lol. The Fitech will work on your cammed 5.3 and your wild 370 without any hesitation.
#403
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It will work with an adapter but the sensor readings will be so off that it will run like crap. So the short answer is No. You will not need an adapter for the LS9 MAP... it just plugs right into the LS3 plug on the Fitech system. Even if its 3 bar it will still work on an NA motor. It just means your sensor and tuning can go up to 3 bar. But motors aren't in boost all the time so sensors have to be able to run NA as well. So to be clear you need no adapter with the LS9 sensor, dont bother with the stock sensor. Plug it in and forget about it.
#404
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Sure!
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/
Also look up his Facebook page and YOUTUBE VIDEOS!!!
If you dont know about the guy (Matt Happel) youre in for a shock!! This guy made 992 WHEEL horses with nothing more than a cam and springs in a 6.0L with a turbo on E85 and he tries everything and anything and gives the results. He makes videos of everything and reuses old head gaskets, reuses all the tty bolts all the time, and has no problems.... its CRAZY!! He's the "cheap recipe" LS God these days!! 500,700,1000,1200 horses?? Recipe's are there and if you look up the page (wiki) the menu at left is quite a thing to go thru but read every line as there are TONS of info and stuff....
If you like HP and Your money in your pocket.... you'll LOVE this.
Videos are awesome to look at hes down to earth and funny as hell!
People started sending parts (old rods) in to fix stuff when he breaks it testing on the dyno they are so into his **** LOL!!! Its beginning to be quite the camaraderie/ community thing!
No need to hope youll like it, i know you will.
Enjoy, but dont be pissed at me for getting you hooked and spending all your time on his channel/pages etc!! Lol!!!
Heres the you tube 992 vid.... hope link works
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/
Also look up his Facebook page and YOUTUBE VIDEOS!!!
If you dont know about the guy (Matt Happel) youre in for a shock!! This guy made 992 WHEEL horses with nothing more than a cam and springs in a 6.0L with a turbo on E85 and he tries everything and anything and gives the results. He makes videos of everything and reuses old head gaskets, reuses all the tty bolts all the time, and has no problems.... its CRAZY!! He's the "cheap recipe" LS God these days!! 500,700,1000,1200 horses?? Recipe's are there and if you look up the page (wiki) the menu at left is quite a thing to go thru but read every line as there are TONS of info and stuff....
If you like HP and Your money in your pocket.... you'll LOVE this.
Videos are awesome to look at hes down to earth and funny as hell!
People started sending parts (old rods) in to fix stuff when he breaks it testing on the dyno they are so into his **** LOL!!! Its beginning to be quite the camaraderie/ community thing!
No need to hope youll like it, i know you will.
Enjoy, but dont be pissed at me for getting you hooked and spending all your time on his channel/pages etc!! Lol!!!
Heres the you tube 992 vid.... hope link works
#405
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sure!
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/
Also look up his Facebook page and YOUTUBE VIDEOS!!!
If you dont know about the guy (Matt Happel) youre in for a shock!! This guy made 992 WHEEL horses with nothing more than a cam and springs in a 6.0L with a turbo on E85 and he tries everything and anything and gives the results. He makes videos of everything and reuses old head gaskets, reuses all the tty bolts all the time, and has no problems.... its CRAZY!! He's the "cheap recipe" LS God these days!! 500,700,1000,1200 horses?? Recipe's are there and if you look up the page (wiki) the menu at left is quite a thing to go thru but read every line as there are TONS of info and stuff....
If you like HP and Your money in your pocket.... you'll LOVE this.
Videos are awesome to look at hes down to earth and funny as hell!
People started sending parts (old rods) in to fix stuff when he breaks it testing on the dyno they are so into his **** LOL!!! Its beginning to be quite the camaraderie thing!
No need to hope youll like it, i know you will.
Enjoy, but dont be pissed at me for getting you hooked and spending all your time on his channel/pages etc!! Lol!!!
Heres the you tube 992 vid.... hope link works
https://youtu.be/Zo3kZ8wbnkA
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/
Also look up his Facebook page and YOUTUBE VIDEOS!!!
If you dont know about the guy (Matt Happel) youre in for a shock!! This guy made 992 WHEEL horses with nothing more than a cam and springs in a 6.0L with a turbo on E85 and he tries everything and anything and gives the results. He makes videos of everything and reuses old head gaskets, reuses all the tty bolts all the time, and has no problems.... its CRAZY!! He's the "cheap recipe" LS God these days!! 500,700,1000,1200 horses?? Recipe's are there and if you look up the page (wiki) the menu at left is quite a thing to go thru but read every line as there are TONS of info and stuff....
If you like HP and Your money in your pocket.... you'll LOVE this.
Videos are awesome to look at hes down to earth and funny as hell!
People started sending parts (old rods) in to fix stuff when he breaks it testing on the dyno they are so into his **** LOL!!! Its beginning to be quite the camaraderie thing!
No need to hope youll like it, i know you will.
Enjoy, but dont be pissed at me for getting you hooked and spending all your time on his channel/pages etc!! Lol!!!
Heres the you tube 992 vid.... hope link works
https://youtu.be/Zo3kZ8wbnkA
#406
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oh I'm very well aware of him. I'm planning to decap some truck injectors and flow test them. I read about a motor he ran with 2 different heads on it and it still laid down some great numbers. He unfortunately likes to run MS3 stuff and I'm not a fan... too many horror stories of bad hardware and stuff that has people chasing there tails. I was more interested in the new cheap Boost tuning you were talking about.
Oh, sorry man.... but i couldnt guess lol!!
Heres a video about it, but i think there is another one before and prolly one after also, not 100% sure. But itll give you an idea.
Sorry for the confusion!!!
Hope it helps.
😉
#407
TECH Enthusiast
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It will work with an adapter but the sensor readings will be so off that it will run like crap. So the short answer is No. You will not need an adapter for the LS9 MAP... it just plugs right into the LS3 plug on the Fitech system. Even if its 3 bar it will still work on an NA motor. It just means your sensor and tuning can go up to 3 bar. But motors aren't in boost all the time so sensors have to be able to run NA as well. So to be clear you need no adapter with the LS9 sensor, dont bother with the stock sensor. Plug it in and forget about it.
#408
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oh I'm very well aware of him. I'm planning to decap some truck injectors and flow test them. I read about a motor he ran with 2 different heads on it and it still laid down some great numbers. He unfortunately likes to run MS3 stuff and I'm not a fan... too many horror stories of bad hardware and stuff that has people chasing there tails. I was more interested in the new cheap Boost tuning you were talking about.
You dont like MS3 stuff?? I was actually looking at all those again yesterday afternoon. Trying to figure the difference between Microsquirt and Megasquirt and why there are two sites if its the same stuff... or is it? Then i read some comments and also remembered i passed on a super deal at 800$ (Can!) for a Gold box set up AND Decka 80's the guy tried it and was so pissed he wanted nothing to do with it so in the end thats what scared me LOL!!! I was like, hey, im not even confortable and he says its fn hard to work with.... never mind the proce!! LOL!! So im still on the lookout. I have a 70050 in my cart on Summits page and am still watching HP's prices... they really came down around Christmas, almost made the move.... but i had so much stuff to buy still, i didnt want to spend money if i wasnt sure it was coming out this season, now i only missing a driveshaft (my brand new Strange moly unit is a bit too short out of my 69 Camaro dammit!!) a carpet, injectors, fuel pump, Throttle body, hot and cold side (starting on this this week) and some hoses and fittings... and thats about it. The rest is work....
Im getting there!! Chassis is about done, got my fuel cell and Kirkey seats in as well as wastegates (2x44's) and Blow off... etc etc lol!!!
![](https://s19.postimg.org/nctt47t1v/IMG_1579.jpg)
![](https://s19.postimg.org/66v5ys3ar/IMG_1591.jpg)
![](https://s19.postimg.org/5hcdmfpwj/IMG_1587.jpg)
![](https://s19.postimg.org/6zkifspxf/IMG_9092.jpg)
![](https://s19.postimg.org/fulcqajur/IMG_9083.jpg)
At some point ill have to pull the trigger on the ecu.... as its affecting decision left to take, like the injector choice.
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
#409
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...YaAhbMEALw_wcB
This is the one I use when installing in the air purge port of the truck intakes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dfp-ts10072
#410
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not bashing the Fitech, they are cool for what they are. Just not even in the same league as the MS3+ stuff IMO.
Megasquirt is miles ahead of Fitech. I’ve worked with both. I feel like Fitech is more for NA cars that want a quick cheap bolt on and go solution with mild tuneability. It’s severely lacking in features for a typical drag turbo car when compared to the MS platforms. But fine for a simple street car. Hand held controller/display is pretty nifty but it’s awkward to navigate IMO.
There is a bit of a learning curve as there is with any software. But there are so many more useful features on the MS stuff that I wouldn’t even consider a Fitech. Esp. for a drag car like you are building. Many more input/outputs. Multiple forms of built in boost control (boost by speed, gear etc), traction control, alky injection control, fuel pump control, customizable 2-steps, anti-lags, timed retard from launch, AFR safeties etc etc…
#411
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And also,
You dont like MS3 stuff?? I was actually looking at all those again yesterday afternoon. Trying to figure the difference between Microsquirt and Megasquirt and why there are two sites if its the same stuff... or is it? Then i read some comments and also remembered i passed on a super deal at 800$ (Can!) for a Gold box set up AND Decka 80's the guy tried it and was so pissed he wanted nothing to do with it so in the end thats what scared me LOL!!! I was like, hey, im not even confortable and he says its fn hard to work with.... never mind the proce!! LOL!! So im still on the lookout. I have a 70050 in my cart on Summits page and am still watching HP's prices... they really came down around Christmas, almost made the move.... but i had so much stuff to buy still, i didnt want to spend money if i wasnt sure it was coming out this season, now i only missing a driveshaft (my brand new Strange moly unit is a bit too short out of my 69 Camaro dammit!!) a carpet, injectors, fuel pump, Throttle body, hot and cold side (starting on this this week) and some hoses and fittings... and thats about it. The rest is work....
Im getting there!! Chassis is about done, got my fuel cell and Kirkey seats in as well as wastegates (2x44's) and Blow off... etc etc lol!!!
At some point ill have to pull the trigger on the ecu.... as its affecting decision left to take, like the injector choice.
waaaaaa!!!!!!!
You dont like MS3 stuff?? I was actually looking at all those again yesterday afternoon. Trying to figure the difference between Microsquirt and Megasquirt and why there are two sites if its the same stuff... or is it? Then i read some comments and also remembered i passed on a super deal at 800$ (Can!) for a Gold box set up AND Decka 80's the guy tried it and was so pissed he wanted nothing to do with it so in the end thats what scared me LOL!!! I was like, hey, im not even confortable and he says its fn hard to work with.... never mind the proce!! LOL!! So im still on the lookout. I have a 70050 in my cart on Summits page and am still watching HP's prices... they really came down around Christmas, almost made the move.... but i had so much stuff to buy still, i didnt want to spend money if i wasnt sure it was coming out this season, now i only missing a driveshaft (my brand new Strange moly unit is a bit too short out of my 69 Camaro dammit!!) a carpet, injectors, fuel pump, Throttle body, hot and cold side (starting on this this week) and some hoses and fittings... and thats about it. The rest is work....
Im getting there!! Chassis is about done, got my fuel cell and Kirkey seats in as well as wastegates (2x44's) and Blow off... etc etc lol!!!
At some point ill have to pull the trigger on the ecu.... as its affecting decision left to take, like the injector choice.
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
I've read too many horror stories of the MS stuff. They do ALOT for the money but they are are software company like HP tuners... and not really a car company like FAST/Holley/MSD etc. The stuff I hear is it works great!!! and then suddenly it wont idle right etc and they end up chasing there tails for months replacing a ton of stuff and wasting tons of time diagnosing what they think is mechanical or tune related but ends up being a hardware driver or something software related. I also dont like that most of the MS stuff doesnt come with weatherpack or weather tight connectors on the PCM etc... they are just standard molex PC style connectors which work fine but I wouldnt run them in an engine bay that can get wet etc.
Most of the stuff is user error as in they cheap out and get the build your own kit for cheap but they screw something up or have a bad solder joint. IF I WAS going to get anything from that company it would have to be the Gold box... pre built PLUG AND PLAY. Bc that takes most of the variables out of the way and just leaves tune/hardware issues failing... I also think the new MS3 pro gold box comes with weather proof connectors at the ECM. I'm not a professional PC guy... I know a bit but comes down to basic knowledge and not so much about drivers and circuit boards and all that technical stuff.
I think if you need to be cheap and want alot of features the MS stuff is golden but at a risk. If you want user friendly and alot of features then Holley Dominator. If you want user friendly and decent features you have holley HP, Fitech, FAST and MSD. But MSD and FAST dont do boost. Holley HP can do boost but from what Ive read its an Add on and your limited to what it can do bc of the limited amount of drivers expect to pay $2k for what Fitech does for $800. But you get the tested holley stuff, usability and good tech support. FAST and MSD will get your NA motor going nicely but dont do boost. Both the HP and Fitech will do boost tuning (Fitech limited to 28 ish psi of boost) and Holley I think can run up to 5 bar if Im not mistaken. EDIT: Also I forgot to mention that Fitech limits injector sizing to 120lb as Impatient1 has just confirmed. So if your running pump gas it will support quite a bit of power but not so much (1000hp) on E85 which is still ALOT lol. Not sure about the limits of the holley or MS systems injector wise.
One thing I have seen with holley and i'm not really happy about it is that they are rebranding cheap chinese stuff and selling it under there brand. Mostly in the "sniper" line but I'm sure it will trickle into the regulators and probably more. I was looking in summit mag the other day and while Ive known the sniper billet fabbed LS intake was in fact the same chinese intake with Sniper stamped into it... they are now selling the cheap 92 & 102mm billet ebay TBs as the sniper brand. They dont even try to hide it lol the TB blades still have the 102mm engraved. I also think Holley is selling the ebay SS turbo headers as there own as well at some ridiculous price... or it was flowtech or something.
Holley has a good Holiday sale for like a month around Xmass... I was eyeing it this year and almost pulled the trigger on a holley Turbo manifold kit but decided to hold off till next year. They will do it again dont worry, same thing that speed hut does around Xmass and 4th of July I think or Memorial day.
#412
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The MS3pro plug and play system by DIY autotune is the top of the line IMO. None of those pitfalls mentioned above associated with their newest revised boxes. They also took care of all their faulty boxes and customers... something companies like Holley never do. Holley is a bit easier to navigate, but it’s not open source and isn’t nearly as easy to customize to your specific application. Which is a necessity IMO.
As far as the connectors being "Weather proof". This unit is running an engine submerged in water.
As far as the connectors being "Weather proof". This unit is running an engine submerged in water.
![](http://www.diyautotune.com/images/events/pri2012/ms3-pro-swimming.jpg)
Last edited by Forcefed86; 03-14-2018 at 10:13 AM.
#413
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The Megasquirt hardware can be purchased by anyone. Then built and sold by other companies with their own “plug and play” solutions to different engine platforms. It’s “open source”. There are many companies that build and sell their own versions. The MS3 gold box is owned by EFI SOURCE. The MS3PRO stuff is owned by the DIYAUTO tune guys. They also sell their own MS3 and MS3X boxes and harnesses.
Not bashing the Fitech, they are cool for what they are. Just not even in the same league as the MS3+ stuff IMO.
Megasquirt is miles ahead of Fitech. I’ve worked with both. I feel like Fitech is more for NA cars that want a quick cheap bolt on and go solution with mild tuneability. It’s severely lacking in features for a typical drag turbo car when compared to the MS platforms. But fine for a simple street car. Hand held controller/display is pretty nifty but it’s awkward to navigate IMO.
There is a bit of a learning curve as there is with any software. But there are so many more useful features on the MS stuff that I wouldn’t even consider a Fitech. Esp. for a drag car like you are building. Many more input/outputs. Multiple forms of built in boost control (boost by speed, gear etc), traction control, alky injection control, fuel pump control, customizable 2-steps, anti-lags, timed retard from launch, AFR safeties etc etc…
Not bashing the Fitech, they are cool for what they are. Just not even in the same league as the MS3+ stuff IMO.
Megasquirt is miles ahead of Fitech. I’ve worked with both. I feel like Fitech is more for NA cars that want a quick cheap bolt on and go solution with mild tuneability. It’s severely lacking in features for a typical drag turbo car when compared to the MS platforms. But fine for a simple street car. Hand held controller/display is pretty nifty but it’s awkward to navigate IMO.
There is a bit of a learning curve as there is with any software. But there are so many more useful features on the MS stuff that I wouldn’t even consider a Fitech. Esp. for a drag car like you are building. Many more input/outputs. Multiple forms of built in boost control (boost by speed, gear etc), traction control, alky injection control, fuel pump control, customizable 2-steps, anti-lags, timed retard from launch, AFR safeties etc etc…
Can't really put them in the same boat as they are not equal systems.
Fitech isn't designed for serious drag cars, but will do serious HP street cars. Also Fitech gives the people 2 options, the handheld is designed for the normal guy who can/can't turn wrenches to plug in and setup, crank and enjoy. They mostly wont even change timing or anything and just enjoy it. The handheld doesnt even allow access to all the tables/values for this very reason. But the procal software allows the more involved DIY guy setup all the nitty/gritty stuff like the Boosted Timing tables etc which isn't available on the handheld. I think its a great system and priced accordingly for 90% of the street crowd and the weekend track guy.
I think a more comparable comparison is the MS3 PRO or gold box against the Holley dominator EFI or even the more expensive Haltech stuff... but I just read about there new boost ready 950 system which is priced at $1700 with harness!!! WHOOP WHOOP!!! Using an internal 3BAR sensor and a single connection... looks pretty sweet.
I also believe in "KISS" (Keep it simple stupid). Alot of features that you'll never use... or alot of things that can go wrong.
#414
TECH Enthusiast
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I run these for screw in style and only $10
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...YaAhbMEALw_wcB
This is the one I use when installing in the air purge port of the truck intakes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dfp-ts10072
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...YaAhbMEALw_wcB
This is the one I use when installing in the air purge port of the truck intakes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dfp-ts10072
#415
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
look up sloppy mechanics truck IAT sensor install. Basically you just dremel off the edges/ribs and a slight amount off the DIA. Put a small amount of RTV along the top lip and then smack it down into the intake with a plastic mallet. It seats and seals and your all done. Ive done it to both my gen 3 truck, new NNBS and Dorman truck style intake. That port gets blocked off anyways so really its a good place for a sensor.
#416
TECH Enthusiast
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
look up sloppy mechanics truck IAT sensor install. Basically you just dremel off the edges/ribs and a slight amount off the DIA. Put a small amount of RTV along the top lip and then smack it down into the intake with a plastic mallet. It seats and seals and your all done. Ive done it to both my gen 3 truck, new NNBS and Dorman truck style intake. That port gets blocked off anyways so really its a good place for a sensor.
#417
TECH Enthusiast
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
actually ordered two of them...both styles just in case the plastic one gets fouled in the intake behind the throttle body...the screw on type I will just put in the CAI tube....and swap locations when the other fails.....have you had any fouling issues yet ?
#418
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The reason I stopped using the screw in ones is due to the brass body which can heat up and skew the readings probably. Plus the intake will take the plastic one as described above and it looks factory.
#419
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Fyi the kits come with a china made bosch 3bar map. I already had the gm 12592525 so I compared the two, 99kpa with key on engine off for bosch, gm 110kpa. Youd have to rescale to run the gm
The screw in fast brand iat sensor I used reads correctly , didn't have to rescale to get it reading correct ambient
The screw in fast brand iat sensor I used reads correctly , didn't have to rescale to get it reading correct ambient
#420
TECH Enthusiast
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Off the DIA of the sensor body. ITs a tube with ridges and the top has a flange that will stop the sensor from going all the way in. You remove the raised ridges on the body of the sensor, then you will test fit it... you will have to sand down the body of the sensor alittle (make the overall DIA smaller) till it slips into the hold with force. You dont want it loose but you should be able to get 1/2 the sensor in by hand, then pull it out and. put a bead of RTV below the flange, put it back into the hole (align it so the open cage of the sensor tip faces the TB opening which isn't necessary but I do it) then smack it in with the plastic mallet untill the flange seats against the intake and te RTV pushes out. All done. Never had an issue with the sensors as long as you get a good snug fit and dont smack the sensor insanely hard it will be good.
The reason I stopped using the screw in ones is due to the brass body which can heat up and skew the readings probably. Plus the intake will take the plastic one as described above and it looks factory.
The reason I stopped using the screw in ones is due to the brass body which can heat up and skew the readings probably. Plus the intake will take the plastic one as described above and it looks factory.
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/15210635622272065908569_76276dd3111e62412a74ea6669ef6986e6dcede2.jpg)