coryforsenate

iTrader: (1)

If you give a mouse a cookie...

If I got the Sonnax input drum, I'd want to get the Sonnax input shaft with it so it comes already assembled and not have to worry about using a press to remove and reinstall the OEM input shaft.

But yeah, it looks really nice and holds an extra friction.

98CayenneT/A

For sure, tough decision.....

hope someone chimes in to say if this is common or if my extreme heat a few seasons ago played a part.

I'm guessing the pressure gauge Mrvedit always preaches about would of come in handy for me right about now

MaroonMonsterLS1

I would question a few things before spending the money on a sonnax input drum.

1. Do you have any relative notion of pressure you were runnning? Have you put a gauge on it before when it was running well just to see what it was doing?

2. What's your accumulator setup (aka what spring setup in the 2-4 band servo)? And what drill size on the 3rd feed hole in the separator plate.

3. What was the clutch setup? # & thickness of clutches, pressure, apply, and snap (maybe you've said it in here before but there's 11 pages and it would be easiest if you'd just re-state it.)

4.I would personally doubt heat was the cause here. Many aluminum parts are heated to over 400 degrees when powdercoating and it has 0 negative effect. If there was enough friction in the clutches to generate crazy enough amounts of heat (like what causes blueing on steel parts) then the clutches would be smoked as well. Since you say the clutches look good I'm going to say that's not the case.

98CayenneT/A

1. No, I have never had a pressure gauge on it despite being advised to do so. After this rebuild I will be putting one on so I can see where I'm at. My original rebuild was due to a cracked forward piston.

2. The Sonnax performance pack is installed per instructions. 3rd feed hole is at. 093". Also running the servo release check valve that will be coming out this time. Sonnax 2-3 shift valve

3. Frictions
(8) .065"

Steels
(7) .078"

Snap ring .078"
Apply .220
Backing .192"

Ended up with .025" clearance wet


My 3-4 frictions still measure at .060"

Game ova

Not sure if the 4l60 uses a drive shell/pressure plate like the 400, but if it does..... did yours look like this?

98CayenneT/A

It does not. That's some serious metal to break. What caused that?

Game ova

I have no idea. Glad I was close to home when it happened though, lost nearly all drive pressure.... and smoked most of the clutches. I've concluded that it was just a freak occurrence. This was months ago, all is well now.

98CayenneT/A

Where would I order a brand new reverse input drum that has not been turned ?

Game ova

I would think whatever it takes would have one. But they will likely crack you over the head though. That place is retarded high.

98CayenneT/A

Went there this morning and got a input drum, reverse input, clutches, pump vanes, 3-4 snap ring....$350 ouch!

Got home and looked at the reverse input drum and it had a step in it so i returned it just now and all they carry is reverse drums that have been turned

Game ova

YIKES! Only thing I can think of now is maybe ebay, other than that I dunno.

bbond105

Tru Tech Trans ask for Jeff and tell him what you want.

98CayenneT/A

Perfect, thanks much.

jetech

I bought my replacement reverse input drum on ebay. Brand new OEM AcDelco for 60 bucks. It looks like a very nice piece

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Subscribing

mrvedit

I recall prices closer to $95 for a new ACDelco reverse input drum.
A "turned" drum doesn't belong in a performance rebuild.

98CayenneT/A

Got a new input drum and shaft. Should I remove the check ball at the end of the shaft for tcc?

mrvedit

Removing the check ball at the end of the input shaft will firm up the TCC apply. This might not be good with a stock converter expecting PWM apply, but probably OK with most performance converters.
PerformaBuilt seems to be active today; perhaps they will chime in and confirm or correct me.

PBA

The 1995 and up 4L60E's all come "dual feed" capsules in the input shaft, and I use them in any pre 1995 4L60E & 700R4 transmissions. With torque converters with damper springs in them, (stock diameter) I recommend against their removal. Removing the capsule will make the lockup annoying. If you like having this firm clutch apply, and the maker of the torque converter is ok with it, then do what you want.

98CayenneT/A

Alrighty, thanks much guys. I left it in on my previous shaft and will do so again.