crazy tarzan

Re-installed diff into cradle, put axles back in, filled diff and re-fastened all rear components on cradle.

And just FYI since I had a bugger of a time finding most of this info (use at your own risk):

Rear sub-frame / rear cradle torque specs --

All three diff bolts - 129 ft lbs
Knuckle to lower control arm - 129 ft lbs
Trailing arm to knuckle - 129 ft lbs
Tie rod to knuckle - 95 ft lbs
Shock to knuckle - 111 ft lbs
Rear caliper to knuckle bolts - 88 ft lbs (front are 92 ft lbs)
Upper control arm ball joint to knuckle - 15 ft lbs +270*
Cradle/sub-frame front bolts (24mm) - 195 ft lbs
Cradle/sub-frame rear bolts (18mm) - 141 ft lbs

MarkFJ40

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Did you get a broken sub frame bolt too!

MarkFJ40

Nope. Broken exhaust manifold bolt with a bunch of welds stacked up until I could twist it out with the vice grips

Tuckin15s

iTrader: (10)

Started Tinting my reverse lights.

Started my headlight restore



Grabbed the Wrong 8.8 from the junkyard haha


Did the plexi glass mod on my fogs.

crazy tarzan

Did an LS7 clutch swap (horrible nasty black tar all over in bell housing, dual mass fly wheel was shot) and replaced rear main seal that was leaking - and yes, getting the bell housing off was a pain in the rear!! Seriously it takes 1/10 the effort to put it back on after the flywheel swap.

Replaced front drivers wheel hub, and am still fighting with the dang bolts that sheared off on the cats to exhaust connect (one per side)--I've told my wife that maybe I should just drive it without the cat back, because race car.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I'm planning to lower my subframe for a 2nd time after the cradle bushing install to put on some new upper control arms and toe rods soon. Can you tell me a little more about this breakage? I'd hate to run into that on a weekend project when I need my car for daily duties.

Did you put any 3M film over the plexi? I hear it chips/pits and scratches pretty easily. Looks great though!

Time for long tubes

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Dunno how it was done exactly but I know I'm not the only one who had a similar fate. The front two sub frame bolts where missing when I got the car. A new trans was put in by the dealer not too long prior to me buying the car so they didn't torque them down or put them back at all.So with the front sub frame held into place buy the rear two bolts, when I hit a decent bump one of the two bolts snapped in half........ in hindsight I should of noticed but the previous owner did a good job hiding the screw up, although I don't think he did it mischievously he saw the radiator was sitting low and raised it, masking the warning signs.

I'm not the first to have one missing so human error is my guess. It was the front subframe.

Tuckin15s

iTrader: (10)

I haven't yet but that is the plan before the bumper goes back on the car, I could see it chipping easy.

crazy tarzan

I'm totally wanting a set of long tubes. BUT it'll have to wait a bit longer. . .

Mike ctsV

Nice idea, when doin my motor mounts i had to take off the passenger side cat and sheered one off, luckily i had acces to a torch at the time and torched it out

crazy tarzan

Finished putting exhaust back on (after fixing two sheared bolts on the cats).

Bled brakes on all 4 corners.

Bled clutch (get a power bleeder!!! seriously, took 20 min including hook up and clean up and it didn't require my sweetie out in the garage at 10 pm!) which now feels like a normal clutch again (it was bad pretty much since I got the car).

Finished buttoning up everything and took it for a test drive. Which was successful since I made it home again.

Mike ctsV

How was the brake bleed? I need to do mine since its old fluid and i also just added new pads and rotors recently, but I have never bled a car with 8 bleeders before

crazy tarzan

Simple with the power bleeder and a catch can. I do inside then outside of each wheel (not sure if right order). You'll need to remove each wheel to get to the inside bleeder without being a contortionist.

The order of which corner is listed somewhere on here - I believe it's rear driver, rear passenger, front passenger, front driver.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Traditionally, it's to start at the farthest wheel from the MC and work your way to the closest. Pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.

crazy tarzan

Except on the V the hard lines for brakes run on passenger side--the driver's side actually has an extra 4 ft + of hard line across the sub-frame from the disconnect vs the soft line direct like the passenger rear.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Per the FSM, RR – LF – LR – RF (inboard then outboard). With that said, I don't think doing it the "traditional" way causes any problems, it just might not be quite as efficient.

Mike ctsV

Whats a good fluid i can use and get it localy like at advance or autozone or napa or whatever? And do a dot 3 or go with a 4?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If you're manually bleeding (i.e.: bleeding without activating the automated bleed feature of the EBCM using a Tech 2), either method is equally viable. It doesn't matter whether you start with the right or the left rear. All anti-lock brake systems have two fully independent, cross-connected circuits that do not share fluid. This allows the hydraulic system to suffer a single major casualty and still maintain 50% braking power with the correct fore/aft bias.

Technically speaking, you can bleed both rear calipers together and then both front calipers together, if you have two bleeder bottles. Many manufacturers recommend this technique as a time saving measure. There's no downside other than having to keep a closer eye on your reservoir fluid level. If it ever runs dry, you'll need to bleed the master using a bench bleed kit, and you may need to bleed the EBCM (ABS module) as well using a GM Tech 2.

The method identified by AAIIIC is required for the automated bleed process because that's how it was programmed by Vetronix. The script activates the EBCM pump motor and cycles the RR solenoid while instructing you to pump the pedal. Once it stops, the process repeats on the LF caliper, finishing the bleeding process for Circuit #1. Then you do LR and RF to bleed Circuit #2.

Whether it's better to do the inside or the outside of each caliper is debated, but I agree with Stoptech, Brembo, Volkswagon, and several other vendors in that the outer bleeder valve should be cracked first. That prevents mixing of old and new fluid in the system. It's the same reason behind bleeding the each circuit's rear caliper first, before the front caliper.

If you're a casual driver, then you're probably fine with using the Valvoline or Prestone DOT 4 Walmart sells ($6.50/liter). Otherwise, ATE TYP 200 DOT 4 ($18/liter) is the best bang for the buck. RBF 660 Pro is probably the best fluid you'll find on the regular market, but it's extremely expensive ($45/liter).

Mike ctsV

Thanks. Also had another question maybe someone could help me out with I got the creative steal package with the stage 2 mounts and tranny mount and rear diff bushing and shifter bushing, I installed the motor and tranny mounts what a bitch, but anyways sometimes when im gettin on it real hard it kind of sounds like something is rattling like maybe the aluminum heat shields on the motor mounts but I know they're on the right way and they're tight Has anyone else had this problem? maybe I thought it was my motor pinging but it stock and I run 93 octane so I figured it's not engine ping it has to be the heat sheilds? and also the shifter bushings should I put them in my stock shifter or wait and use them when I get a Hurst? there the rubber ones with the bronze copper things whatever those are