What did you do to your V today?
02-16-2017, 12:35 PM
#1161
TECH Addict
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
Posts: 2,404
Received 106 Likes
on
88 Posts
- Saturday - Put the rear up on jack stands, removed the rear wheels, and let the car idle in 2nd gear. I used a mechanic's stethoscope on all of the bearings and it seems that the driver side wheel bearing is the culprit. Passenger side may be starting to go, too, so I'll just do 'em both. They've never been done since I've had the car, which probably means they're original - 134k miles, including plenty of track time on R-compounds, so I'm impressed they held together this long!
I really hope the new wheel bearing is the fix for the noise/vibration I've been getting, but I'm a bit worried that it won't be. The old bearing that I pulled out last night did not seem as bad as I was expecting it to be. I guess I'll see what happens once I have it back together later today...
As an aside, I find the FSM for this car to be quite annoying when it comes to interference removal. The FSM for my Subaru is very thorough - if I'm going to work on part X, and I have to remove part Y and Z to get to X, it tells you to remove Y and Z and refers you to the appropriate portion of the manual. That is not the case in the V's FSM - it's kind of a mixed bag. Sometimes it tells you to remove something that will be in the way, but other times (most of the time, I'd say) it doesn't. For the rear wheel hub/bearing, it never tells you that you'll have to remove the whole knuckle in order to remove the wheel hub/bearing, despite the fact that 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the assembly in place are inaccessible with the knuckle installed! Now, I went into this job kind of assuming I would need to remove the knuckle, so it wasn't the end of the world, but I still think it's subpar that the FSM is inconsistent in that way.
02-16-2017, 12:43 PM
#1162
Rear knuckles, control arms, and bushings are pretty cheap. I keep an extra set of everything at the ready, fully assembled, for situations like this. It's so much easier to refurbish stuff inside where it's warm than laying on the ground in the winter.
02-16-2017, 02:16 PM
#1163
sure i I read all this and my conclusion is the same....
if a suspension is going to function, it has to move. If it moves, there's clearance. If there's clearance, there will be some minute level of deflection no matter what you do. Sure at an f1 level this could be engineered down to complete insignificance but if you could measure it, you'd find some level of instability.
But of course, as applied to the V1, this is a fairly ridiculous conversation to have in the first place and if I wasn't taking a dump right now, I wouldn't have bothered.
if a suspension is going to function, it has to move. If it moves, there's clearance. If there's clearance, there will be some minute level of deflection no matter what you do. Sure at an f1 level this could be engineered down to complete insignificance but if you could measure it, you'd find some level of instability.
But of course, as applied to the V1, this is a fairly ridiculous conversation to have in the first place and if I wasn't taking a dump right now, I wouldn't have bothered.
02-17-2017, 08:48 AM
#1164
On The Tree
What do you mean by rebuild? I just replaced my parking brake pads (and Rotors) this past weekend and they still don't grab well. Going to adjust them out more soon.
On my Tahoe there is the threaded seat that the parking brake shoe sits on that you can screw in or out and a cable that you can tighten as well along the frame rails. I read the only adjustments for the V is that screw the parking brake shoe sits on.
Also, the bottom "platform" the shoe sits on came out when I was doing this and it had a little pill looking piece that was in it. Is there a correct orientation for this piece to go back together? It seems like it would be more effective (I imagine setting the parking brake wants to push that piece down as well?) if it was directly straight up and down, but no way in hell I could get it back together like that.
On my Tahoe there is the threaded seat that the parking brake shoe sits on that you can screw in or out and a cable that you can tighten as well along the frame rails. I read the only adjustments for the V is that screw the parking brake shoe sits on.
Also, the bottom "platform" the shoe sits on came out when I was doing this and it had a little pill looking piece that was in it. Is there a correct orientation for this piece to go back together? It seems like it would be more effective (I imagine setting the parking brake wants to push that piece down as well?) if it was directly straight up and down, but no way in hell I could get it back together like that.
Last edited by BaMaDuDe87; 02-17-2017 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Add pic
02-17-2017, 10:47 AM
#1166
Re: CTS-V Center Speaker in Dash Replacement
I installed this guy: https://www.parts-express.com/celest...iver--294-2046
It fits using the same mounting holes. The screws aren't quite straight, but it fits. The 8ohm matches well with my setup and the sound is vastly superior to the OEM piece, clearer, deeper, no harshness at all. Hope this helps those who want to upgrade without going whole hog. I ended up with this in the center, Dayton dome tweets that fit in the factory pillars, Dayton classic 6.5s in 4ohm in the front doors, DLS 5.25 full range in the rears, and entry level Image Dynamics 10 in the deck, all run off a PPI 5 channel amp with the Audiocontrol LCQ1 between the amp and the Bose amp. It doesn't slam but does shake the mirror, sounds full and rich with all kinds of music, doesn't strain the electrical, and looks 100% stock. The Audiocontrol piece allows you to tune out the bass cut with volume increase, made a notable difference. Got some time in this but not a ton of money, good fit for my priorities for the car. Hope this helps someone,.
I installed this guy: https://www.parts-express.com/celest...iver--294-2046
It fits using the same mounting holes. The screws aren't quite straight, but it fits. The 8ohm matches well with my setup and the sound is vastly superior to the OEM piece, clearer, deeper, no harshness at all. Hope this helps those who want to upgrade without going whole hog. I ended up with this in the center, Dayton dome tweets that fit in the factory pillars, Dayton classic 6.5s in 4ohm in the front doors, DLS 5.25 full range in the rears, and entry level Image Dynamics 10 in the deck, all run off a PPI 5 channel amp with the Audiocontrol LCQ1 between the amp and the Bose amp. It doesn't slam but does shake the mirror, sounds full and rich with all kinds of music, doesn't strain the electrical, and looks 100% stock. The Audiocontrol piece allows you to tune out the bass cut with volume increase, made a notable difference. Got some time in this but not a ton of money, good fit for my priorities for the car. Hope this helps someone,.
02-17-2017, 10:55 AM
#1167
TECH Addict
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
Posts: 2,404
Received 106 Likes
on
88 Posts
What do you mean by rebuild? I just replaced my parking brake pads (and Rotors) this past weekend and they still don't grab well. Going to adjust them out more soon.
On my Tahoe there is the threaded seat that the parking brake shoe sits on that you can screw in or out and a cable that you can tighten as well along the frame rails. I read the only adjustments for the V is that screw the parking brake shoe sits on.
Also, the bottom "platform" the shoe sits on came out when I was doing this and it had a little pill looking piece that was in it. Is there a correct orientation for this piece to go back together? It seems like it would be more effective (I imagine setting the parking brake wants to push that piece down as well?) if it was directly straight up and down, but no way in hell I could get it back together like that.
On my Tahoe there is the threaded seat that the parking brake shoe sits on that you can screw in or out and a cable that you can tighten as well along the frame rails. I read the only adjustments for the V is that screw the parking brake shoe sits on.
Also, the bottom "platform" the shoe sits on came out when I was doing this and it had a little pill looking piece that was in it. Is there a correct orientation for this piece to go back together? It seems like it would be more effective (I imagine setting the parking brake wants to push that piece down as well?) if it was directly straight up and down, but no way in hell I could get it back together like that.
The pill piece sits in the inside of the unthreaded piece, and the other end goes into a cup on the top of the lever that the cable attaches to. If things are gunked up with grease it may be hard to see whether the pill is seated in the pocket on the lever properly, in which case it would be hard to get things back together tightly.
Each end of the brake shoe has a vertical nub that should made up with the slots on the threaded adjuster and the unthreaded piece. So, yes, the slot should be vertical. The FSM tells you to just grab the brake shoe and pull it apart (like you're trying to pull open a horseshoe), then slide it onto/into the slots.
02-17-2017, 11:14 AM
#1168
On The Tree
The pill piece sits in the inside of the unthreaded piece, and the other end goes into a cup on the top of the lever that the cable attaches to. If things are gunked up with grease it may be hard to see whether the pill is seated in the pocket on the lever properly, in which case it would be hard to get things back together tightly.
BTW, to anyone doing this getting that spring back in sucks.
02-19-2017, 09:38 PM
#1169
Man fuckn figures. Some dickhole stole my head light washer cover. (The triangle piece) who the **** steals that? Took the plunge into aftermarket lights and a quality set of hids burns my *** they picked the perfect timing. Just order some fuel system goodies for the trans am. Figures.
Not ready to give up on the washers yet, going to try to see if I can get them working on the new set. I despise aftermarket headlights on cars unless the look oem, I like the set I found so I'm pretty exited to get them working and remove the "black eye" so to speak.
Not ready to give up on the washers yet, going to try to see if I can get them working on the new set. I despise aftermarket headlights on cars unless the look oem, I like the set I found so I'm pretty exited to get them working and remove the "black eye" so to speak.
Last edited by vroom_vroom; 02-19-2017 at 10:25 PM.
02-20-2017, 12:10 PM
#1173
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-20-2017, 08:17 PM
#1178
Staging Lane
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Casper WY
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Saturday saw an oil change, tire rotation and replaced the oil pressure sensor--after going and buying a 27mm deep socket that was nearly the same price as the sensor 
nice to to not have the "service vehicle soon"
message flash up when the oil pressure sensor maxed out, and now I don't show 129 psi as idle pressure anymore
nice to to not have the "service vehicle soon"
message flash up when the oil pressure sensor maxed out, and now I don't show 129 psi as idle pressure anymore
02-21-2017, 08:13 AM
#1179
Teching In
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before and after. Got it all back up into the car today. CS bushings front and rear.
Next up is Brian's shifter!
If anyone is interested, this was the process:
Wire brush -> Naval Jelly -> POR-15 (cleaner -> metal prep -> Sealant/Rust Proectant -> Top Coat)
Next up is Brian's shifter!
If anyone is interested, this was the process:
Wire brush -> Naval Jelly -> POR-15 (cleaner -> metal prep -> Sealant/Rust Proectant -> Top Coat)
02-22-2017, 08:07 AM
#1180
70* in February over the weekend. That doesn't happen. These temps are rough on the Blizzaks. I siphoned clutch and power steering fluid and bled the clutch. Vacuumed the interior and washed the car. Replaced the license plate and front headlight marker LED bulbs. My old ones had been strobing since December. Luckily I didn't get pulled over for it.