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Well the time as come for me to build me a Murican Muscle V8 project. I have always been a fan of the LS base engine so this seemed like the perfect opportunity.
My engine and vehicle knowledge is above average however this will be the first LS that I will really dive into. I have built a few heavily modified Japanese vehicles including my last one which was +700awhp 06 Subaru STI that I built from the ground up. I just sold it and wanted to build something a bit cheaper and enjoy the "junkyard/rat rod" style.
This project came to me as a few inspirational pictures that I wanted to try and combine (see pics below).
This will more or less be a build blog in hopes to help others and maybe bring a nice following.
Project Goals:
-Junkyard Rat Rod (Budget Friendly)
-Most of work done by me
-Safe (roll cage, 5 points, racing seats, proper helmets and alike)
-Drag Capable (good off the line and fun toy that goes 10's maybe 9's)
-Auto X and Track Capable (Low, good handling, wide stance, stiff body)
-Over 500rwhp Turbo (later on over 600rwhp and final goal of over 800rwhp)
-Not a trailer Queen. Fully registered (SC) and derivable anywhere within 300 miles. I want to be able to drive this windows down and although a bit harsh, loud, and hot, I want to be able to do it. I think trailer queen rides is taking the easy way out and don't get the same appreciation from me.
="5"%AND SO IT BEGINS...
This project is starting out at a 2000 Chevy Single Cab 4.8 Iron Block with 215,000 miles that I picked up for $1400. Thing runs and drives great. The owner claimed it had a mid cam but I have no way of knowing.
Day 1: Planning
-Remove the Silverado bed, bumpers, cab, and strip the entire truck down
-Change the 4L60E with a T56 or some manual that can handle the power
-Change the rear end to something better than the 10 bolt (maybe a Ford 9" or a 12 Bolt)
-Lower the entire truck 5/7 (step notch the frame and do some heavily suspension mods to make it stable and "track ready").
-Find and old cab (still not sure what I want); chop it and drop the top.
-Spray frame and under cab with a rino liner.
-Roll cage and interior work will be setup for track. (no creature comforts {maybe a sound system... maybe})
-Dual side exit exhaust (even with turba)
-75-80mm turbo
-Unknown tuning system. I like the idea of the Holley Dominator but Holley F the price (you see what I did there?) I want to try and tune it myself.
"Finished" for a while now. Just having fun doing smokey burnouts, drag racing it, and just making small items and cleaning things up. I might use a smaller fuel tank and put it further back... maybe add some wood to the bed.
Some of you (ages 20-35) might get the name right off the bat...
So a little bit of background, my brother and I used to play a video game Starcraft way back in the day (and I even still play it for fun on occasionally).
StarCraft is a military science fiction real-time strategy game designed around building a base and an army and beating everyone else with it. It was one of the best RTS games (and still is to date). The Dragoon was a go anywhere, do anything, best bang for buck work-horse unit. Fast, powerful, and looked BA doing it.
While thinking of a name for this 'goon with my borther, that name came up. Sure enough, the name has multiple other meanings and uses that represent both what the vehicle is/will be and what/who I am.
I believe I have the end result build in my head... Should be interesting to come back to this once it's done:
End Build:
HP Goals: Duel/Blend Tune, 600whp on 93, 750-800whp on e85 (no Meth or Nitrous) SD tuned
Time Goals: Under 10 secs
Engine:
-6.0 Iron Block that was hand built by me with upgrades necessary parts. Balanced rotating assembly with forged internals
-Large singe turbo and supporting mods (80-88mm {or bigger} with a large intercooler, gates, and BOV)
-Custom exhaust and boost tubes made by me (Steel/SS exhaust and Aluminium boost tubes)
-Large Fuel system (Duel/Triple Walbro 450s, -6/-8 Lines, 95-120# injectors)
-317 heads or better with upgrades valve train
-Pretty good turbo cam (still unknown)
-A/C and many other components removed
-Supporting cooling, performance parts, and odds and ends
-Extra Goal: Holley Dominator EFI and self tuned
Transmission and Drivetrain:
T56 (or equivalent manual) upgraded to handle the power
Upgraded Driveshaft and other components
Ford 9" (or equivalent)
Suspension:
-5/7 drop (stepped frame)
-Custom upper and lower control arms built my me
-Custom rear end suspension built my me
-All bushing replaced with Nylon or equivalent
-Supporting suspension upgrades for road course and track use
-Maintain some level of streetability so it isn't the worse thing to drive (probably a very hard task but was easily achieved in my last build)
-Maintain factory ABS with upgraded brake components
Body/interior:
-Old school car junk yard shell
-Custom Roll Cage made by me (doesn't need to be certified but I will be copying a few designs)
-Everything stripped gutted and sprayed (rhino liner or equivalent)
-Racing seats with 5 point harnesses (and necessary HW and other safety needs)
-Shell can be lifted off the cage with ease. Maybe a few snap locks and push pins
-Removal doors with pins (Jeep style)
Final Cost: Under $15,000
Round 1 of the build:
-Get the cab on the frame and get it running and driving. Get all the systems working properly and finalize anything "temp mounted"
Round 2:
-Drop entire truck down as low as I can go without compromising ALL drivability.
Round 3:
-4L80E, Ford 9" (or alike), custom driveshaft, rear shocks, finish lowering.
Round 4:
-Denmah's 4.8 turbo build
Round 5:
-Make it faster by 6.0 or more turba, etc etc
Total Cost of the Project:
Updated 12/10/18
Total Build $ 11,155
Spent Minus Sold $ 1,845
Total Spent $ 9,310
Left ($10,000 Budget) $ 690
% Bought 95%
% Installed 79%
I just picked up a second 4.8 Iron Block LS that claims to be out of a 2010 Silverado with 120k miles on it. Previous owner said it ran before pulled but will probably need crank bearings since that's why it was pulled in the first place.
Oil pan to intake manifold for $150. Couldn't' say no. Even for playing around and learning about the engine it will be worth the money. The newer 4.8 is stronger and better for boost so it might become the primary motor once I take it apart and replace some bearings.
Also came with injectors so I'll be de-capping both sets (directions from Sloppy Mechanics) and sending them out. I might still buy 80# injectors but we shall see what they flow. I might just buy 2 walbro 450's and up the base fuel pressure to get similar results of 80#.
Edit: Just looked closer at the spare engine and it's a Gen 3 not Gen 4. Kinda sucks since I was hoping for the stronger rods but at least it will be an easy swap 1:1 when/if the other engine goes.
So it's been a little while since the update:
10/17/2017
I have removed the entire Silverado body off the frame. I am pondering using the Silverado firewall and floor since the cab I picked up didn't have one. This means all the supports would line up etc etc but it's becoming more of a pain.
I have also started to cut the framing out of the old cab and replace it with my own. The previous owner had a really bad frame inside the cab that was welding to an S-10 frame. It's slowly coming together.
Issues I am running into now:
1) Fitting the Small cab on the larger Silverado frame. It's going to work and should fit almost perfect once all the framing is complete.
2) ABS and electrical lines needed to be re-routed. I bend the abs lines to make it work but I really need to just make custom lines.
3) Fuel cell needs to be relocated and that means all new lines. Not sure what lines I need to use. I would like to use hose/piping and not use hard line.
4) Entire truck needs to be lowered but I need to find tires first since the current tires are way to high
Once the framing is done, I will post some pics old vs. new
I like where your heading with the build. Using the old cab and bed while using it on the newer chassis lowered will give it the appearance of a much wider stance ghan it actually is. And in turn allowing much wider wheels ant tires without the extra work should be pretty cool when complete
I like where your heading with the build. Using the old cab and bed while using it on the newer chassis lowered will give it the appearance of a much wider stance ghan it actually is. And in turn allowing much wider wheels ant tires without the extra work should be pretty cool when complete
Thx! I am trying to making something look old, but definitely newer under the skin. I will eventually do a bigger engine, turbo, 4L80E, Ford 9", and maybe make my own frame, but for now it's just a "get it running" type thing (per Denmah's style... just get it running).
You're exactly right, it will have a much wider stance than the S-10 Framed rat rods (which is what I want) and will hopefully provide the look I am going for.
Awwww...... you are SOOOO jealous.....
OP- You DO have your work cut out for you, BUT it looks like you have a clear view of things. This is gonna be BAD-***!!
All in - following along. Nice to see someone start out with a written/budgeted plan, just for a change. My approach is start out with absolutely no budget, written or otherwise. And then, never, ever add everything up. Plausible deniability.
You planning on channeling that body down over the unibody a bit so it sits a bit lower?
All in - following along. Nice to see someone start out with a written/budgeted plan, just for a change. My approach is start out with absolutely no budget, written or otherwise. And then, never, ever add everything up. Plausible deniability.
You planning on channeling that body down over the unibody a bit so it sits a bit lower?
Thx, I wanted to document a lot of it for my own info and hopefully for others as there are a lot of hidden costs when doing something like this.
Yes, I do plan on bringing about 6" of the '36 cab over the frame. Then, get lower profile tiresand drop the entire frame. At first I was thinking a 5/7 drop, but I need to first see how low the tires bring the frame down, then evaluate how low I want to go. I don't want to do air due to cost and it seems everyone does that so it will mostly be just a different spring/shock combo with some frame notching and a flipped rear axle.
I don't want to spend too much now on the drop/suspension since it will eventually get a 4L80E, custom driveshaft, Ford 9", and convert the rear end to shocks. Again, this is further down the road (as well as the turbo setup and budget increase) so we shall see.
And this is why Im attracted to this project! Most people dont understand this type of project when all they do is bolt on stuff to a factory stock car. This is no PEP boys build and I think its great.
Nice to see another truck in the mix. Keep us posted on the progress!
considering the diversity you want from it, I'd suggest a Ford 9" for quicker gear changes
For fuel lines, different types of tracks have their own rules and regulations. Generally speaking hard lines attached to the body are okay. Aftermarket lines for fast drag times need steel braided fuel lines run on the outside of frame rails and away from the bellhousing in case the clutch/torque converter explodes sending a flywheel saw towards the fuel lines. They might not check for tech inspection but I have a feeling at least 1 inspector will take a close look to be sure its safe.
considering the diversity you want from it, I'd suggest a Ford 9" for quicker gear changes
For fuel lines, different types of tracks have their own rules and regulations. Generally speaking hard lines attached to the body are okay. Aftermarket lines for fast drag times need steel braided fuel lines run on the outside of frame rails and away from the bellhousing in case the clutch/torque converter explodes sending a flywheel saw towards the fuel lines. They might not check for tech inspection but I have a feeling at least 1 inspector will take a close look to be sure its safe.
Keep it up!
Thank you! So far so good but business trips to China and Europe has really slowed this down as well as looking for a house and everything else.
So I have looked into Ford 9" but I can't find one around me for cheap. Everyone wants +$200 for a junked/broken one (some as much as $500). I have also looked at Ford 8.8 and a 12 bolt but nothing popped up that seemed worth it. Again the rear end will end-up being it's own mini project so I think for now I'll just run the 10 bolts till it blows up. It's going to stay N/A anyways until funds come around.
AH! thank you about the fuel system info. I had no idea. I am looking into making some hard lines (-8 feed / -6 return) as the stock ones aren't in a great spot. Then switching it to braided lines for the engine. I want to build the fuel system to handle the turbo setup later on down the road and I hear -8 is plenty for 600-700. My last few builds I always ran out of fuel which really sucked since everything was rated much higher... I don't want to have that issue here.
07-24-2017, 01:05 PM
Project Dragoon: Turbo LS Rat Rod 'Goon 
