Just got a ws6. First things to do questions
06-16-2018, 03:44 PM
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Just got a ws6. First things to do questions Just got a 01 ws6 with 49k miles. Bought it from an older lady who I think pretty much just drove it and changed the oil. I want to get the car maintenance good to go and add a few mods.
probably needs a tune up since the fluids, plugs and wires are likely stock.
I want to get fresh fluids in the car. oil looks like it was just changed and I will for sure do the coolant. What else? What brands do you guys suggest. Oil pressure can get pretty high. 45 at idle and 70 at wot.
after reading a lot on here it looks like people are split on wires but agree the NGK-TR55 are the plugs to go with. This is only $80 from Texas speed with msd wires.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-111-msd-plug-wires-and-ngk-tr-55-spark-plug-combo.aspx
worth it?
I want to make the car ride better as well. I know there are split opinions on subframe connectors and I honestly don't want the ride any stiffer at this point so those are out for the time being. Maybe add them later. The car will be a street car and once a year I will be taking a 200 mile drive. I get the feeling koni shocks are the best thing for me after reading but they can get expensive if I get them adjustable. I will also need someone to install those as I am not very good mechanically. Are the shocks really worth it?
not going to do an exhaust because it's a ws6 and already has a factory upgraded exhaust that I like very much at the moment. Will do a SLP lid at some point. No intake manifold because it already has the ls6 manifold being an 01.
probably needs a tune up since the fluids, plugs and wires are likely stock.
I want to get fresh fluids in the car. oil looks like it was just changed and I will for sure do the coolant. What else? What brands do you guys suggest. Oil pressure can get pretty high. 45 at idle and 70 at wot.
after reading a lot on here it looks like people are split on wires but agree the NGK-TR55 are the plugs to go with. This is only $80 from Texas speed with msd wires.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-111-msd-plug-wires-and-ngk-tr-55-spark-plug-combo.aspx
worth it?
I want to make the car ride better as well. I know there are split opinions on subframe connectors and I honestly don't want the ride any stiffer at this point so those are out for the time being. Maybe add them later. The car will be a street car and once a year I will be taking a 200 mile drive. I get the feeling koni shocks are the best thing for me after reading but they can get expensive if I get them adjustable. I will also need someone to install those as I am not very good mechanically. Are the shocks really worth it?
not going to do an exhaust because it's a ws6 and already has a factory upgraded exhaust that I like very much at the moment. Will do a SLP lid at some point. No intake manifold because it already has the ls6 manifold being an 01.
06-16-2018, 05:09 PM
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06-16-2018, 06:07 PM
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Just got a 01 ws6 with 49k miles. Bought it from an older lady who I think pretty much just drove it and changed the oil. I want to get the car maintenance good to go and add a few mods.
probably needs a tune up since the fluids, plugs and wires are likely stock.
I want to get fresh fluids in the car. oil looks like it was just changed and I will for sure do the coolant. What else? What brands do you guys suggest. Oil pressure can get pretty high. 45 at idle and 70 at wot.
after reading a lot on here it looks like people are split on wires but agree the NGK-TR55 are the plugs to go with. This is only $80 from Texas speed with msd wires.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-111-ms...lug-combo.aspx
worth it?
I want to make the car ride better as well. I know there are split opinions on subframe connectors and I honestly don't want the ride any stiffer at this point so those are out for the time being. Maybe add them later. The car will be a street car and once a year I will be taking a 200 mile drive. I get the feeling koni shocks are the best thing for me after reading but they can get expensive if I get them adjustable. I will also need someone to install those as I am not very good mechanically. Are the shocks really worth it?
not going to do an exhaust because it's a ws6 and already has a factory upgraded exhaust that I like very much at the moment. Will do a SLP lid at some point. No intake manifold because it already has the ls6 manifold being an 01.
probably needs a tune up since the fluids, plugs and wires are likely stock.
I want to get fresh fluids in the car. oil looks like it was just changed and I will for sure do the coolant. What else? What brands do you guys suggest. Oil pressure can get pretty high. 45 at idle and 70 at wot.
after reading a lot on here it looks like people are split on wires but agree the NGK-TR55 are the plugs to go with. This is only $80 from Texas speed with msd wires.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-111-ms...lug-combo.aspx
worth it?
I want to make the car ride better as well. I know there are split opinions on subframe connectors and I honestly don't want the ride any stiffer at this point so those are out for the time being. Maybe add them later. The car will be a street car and once a year I will be taking a 200 mile drive. I get the feeling koni shocks are the best thing for me after reading but they can get expensive if I get them adjustable. I will also need someone to install those as I am not very good mechanically. Are the shocks really worth it?
not going to do an exhaust because it's a ws6 and already has a factory upgraded exhaust that I like very much at the moment. Will do a SLP lid at some point. No intake manifold because it already has the ls6 manifold being an 01.
Last edited by lees02WS6; 06-16-2018 at 08:36 PM.
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06-16-2018, 08:43 PM
#9
Don't bother with subframe connectors, they add weight and will make the ride worse. They create a tuning fork effect that channels more noise in to the chassis.
Koni's (koni yellows) are a great handling shock and are especially good when paired with a good lower spring, but they ride hard. Instead go with Bilsteins if you don't plan to lower. Make sure all your rubber bushing are in good shape, and if they aren't then replace them with new rubber bushings. Remove the aluminum spacer on the rear bump stops if it's present
Lastly, if you have 17x9 wheels with 275's, consider going to a narrower tire (and the quietest rated tire you can find). F-bodies are known to be harsh riding cars, and going with these recommendations will soften that up somewhat.
Koni's (koni yellows) are a great handling shock and are especially good when paired with a good lower spring, but they ride hard. Instead go with Bilsteins if you don't plan to lower. Make sure all your rubber bushing are in good shape, and if they aren't then replace them with new rubber bushings. Remove the aluminum spacer on the rear bump stops if it's present
Lastly, if you have 17x9 wheels with 275's, consider going to a narrower tire (and the quietest rated tire you can find). F-bodies are known to be harsh riding cars, and going with these recommendations will soften that up somewhat.
06-16-2018, 08:59 PM
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Don't bother with subframe connectors, they add weight and will make the ride worse. They create a tuning fork effect that channels more noise in to the chassis.
Koni's (koni yellows) are a great handling shock and are especially good when paired with a good lower spring, but they ride hard. Instead go with Bilsteins if you don't plan to lower. Make sure all your rubber bushing are in good shape, and if they aren't then replace them with new rubber bushings. Remove the aluminum spacer on the rear bump stops if it's present
Lastly, if you have 17x9 wheels with 275's, consider going to a narrower tire (and the quietest rated tire you can find). F-bodies are known to be harsh riding cars, and going with these recommendations will soften that up somewhat.
Koni's (koni yellows) are a great handling shock and are especially good when paired with a good lower spring, but they ride hard. Instead go with Bilsteins if you don't plan to lower. Make sure all your rubber bushing are in good shape, and if they aren't then replace them with new rubber bushings. Remove the aluminum spacer on the rear bump stops if it's present
Lastly, if you have 17x9 wheels with 275's, consider going to a narrower tire (and the quietest rated tire you can find). F-bodies are known to be harsh riding cars, and going with these recommendations will soften that up somewhat.
I am a newbie so do u have any videos or anything to show what are and how to check bushings. I'm suspension incompetent
also where is aluminum bump stop is and what it does
thanks
06-16-2018, 09:02 PM
#11
As for plugs, I run plain old ac delco plugs. Unless they are fouled, carbon deposits, etc and your having some kind of ignition issue leave them alone. Take them out and inspect them, but I'd be surprised if they actually need to be changed with that number of miles on them.
Last edited by lees02WS6; 06-16-2018 at 09:12 PM.
06-16-2018, 09:11 PM
#12
Bilstein are a very good riding shock, are valved for stock ride heigh, and are cheaper than the Koni yellow sport shocks. A visual inspection of the upper and lower a-arms, the panhard bar, and rear lower control arms, and the use of a long pry bar to look for excessive movement is what I use to check bushings
This thread goes over the replacement of those items
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...lots-pics.html
The bump stop spacer is the aluminum part in the middle
This thread goes over the replacement of those items
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...lots-pics.html
The bump stop spacer is the aluminum part in the middle
06-16-2018, 09:22 PM
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As for plugs, I run plain old ac delco plugs. Unless they are fouled, carbon deposits, etc and your having some kind of ignition issue leave them alone. Take them out and inspect them, but I'd be surprised if they actually need to be changed with that number of miles on them.
06-16-2018, 09:23 PM
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Bilstein are a very good riding shock, are valved for stock ride heigh, and are cheaper than the Koni yellow sport shocks. A visual inspection of the upper and lower a-arms, the panhard bar, and rear lower control arms, and the use of a long pry bar to look for excessive movement is what I use to check bushings
This thread goes over the replacement of those items
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...lots-pics.html
The bump stop spacer is the aluminum part in the middle
This thread goes over the replacement of those items
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...lots-pics.html
The bump stop spacer is the aluminum part in the middle
06-17-2018, 08:16 AM
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I love my konis they ride awsome makes it feel like a new car. And u should do subframes for sure ya they add weight to the car but they also strenghten the car and help from twisting wich can eventually cause ttopps and doors not to line up properly
06-17-2018, 08:59 AM
#17
I also have Koni yellows, but was after the adjustability and wanted a handling set up. The car rides hard, even with the addition of the independent rear, it rides even harder lowered.
See RevGTO's post below, it's not an isolated experience:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=8575353
Intro: I got a set of Bilstein HD's two years ago after I'd installed SFC's and the SFC's made my ride stiff and harsh. I was pleased by the handling improvements the Bilsteins made, and they made the ride much more comfortable. Some time later, I did the heater hose mod, and while that greatly improved the rear stance, the front looked too high. So after looking at the options, I decided to get a pair of Koni SA's on the front and set the spring cup on the lower mount. Here are my impressions:
Stance: The lower setting on the Konis complements the heater hose mod in the rear perfectly. Nice drop in the front. The car has a slightly raked stance as it should. This is one of the least expensive ways to lower the car. It is very noticeable and looks great.
Handling: The Konis are much tighter than the Bilsteins. I adjusted them medium - 4 1/2 sweeps from soft. They are more responsive and rebound is much quicker. There's a spot on a local highway that ramps up and levels out quickly. The OE DeCarbons would float badly over it. I thought the Bilsteins handled it really well. But the Konis go over it like it wasn't even there. Amazing. I could feel the Bilstein rear shocks "hang up" because they couldn't keep up with the quick rebound rate of the Konis.
Ride: Impact harshness has greatly increased with the Konis. The Bilsteins were much more forgiving. The Konis slam hard into raised strips and generally transmit road imperfections much more strongly into the cabin. My cruise control switch on the turn signal level rattles on big impacts. It's rattling much more often now with the Konis. Admittedly, the KDWS I run in winter are horrible and have a very stiff sidewall. But the Bilsteins did a much better job of cushioning the impact.
The Verdict: I was thinking of keeping my Bilsteins and cutting a half coil to get the drop I wanted, but decided to sport the big bucks on the Konis because I didn't want to degrade my ride. I'm sure now that my ride would have been much better doing that than with the Konis. Everyone has commented on how much their ride improved with the Konis. Well, maybe after DeCarbons, I don't know. So, in my experience: Konis = great stance, improved handling, worsened ride, and much lighter wallet.
Stance: The lower setting on the Konis complements the heater hose mod in the rear perfectly. Nice drop in the front. The car has a slightly raked stance as it should. This is one of the least expensive ways to lower the car. It is very noticeable and looks great.
Handling: The Konis are much tighter than the Bilsteins. I adjusted them medium - 4 1/2 sweeps from soft. They are more responsive and rebound is much quicker. There's a spot on a local highway that ramps up and levels out quickly. The OE DeCarbons would float badly over it. I thought the Bilsteins handled it really well. But the Konis go over it like it wasn't even there. Amazing. I could feel the Bilstein rear shocks "hang up" because they couldn't keep up with the quick rebound rate of the Konis.
Ride: Impact harshness has greatly increased with the Konis. The Bilsteins were much more forgiving. The Konis slam hard into raised strips and generally transmit road imperfections much more strongly into the cabin. My cruise control switch on the turn signal level rattles on big impacts. It's rattling much more often now with the Konis. Admittedly, the KDWS I run in winter are horrible and have a very stiff sidewall. But the Bilsteins did a much better job of cushioning the impact.
The Verdict: I was thinking of keeping my Bilsteins and cutting a half coil to get the drop I wanted, but decided to sport the big bucks on the Konis because I didn't want to degrade my ride. I'm sure now that my ride would have been much better doing that than with the Konis. Everyone has commented on how much their ride improved with the Konis. Well, maybe after DeCarbons, I don't know. So, in my experience: Konis = great stance, improved handling, worsened ride, and much lighter wallet.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...oth-all-2.html
Last edited by lees02WS6; 06-17-2018 at 11:18 AM.
06-17-2018, 01:37 PM
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Age alone doesn't hurt plugs. I agree that they shouldn't need changing at just 49k miles on a stock LS1 unless those miles were done under severe conditions (such as very short trips in super cold temps) or the vehicle was operated for a significant period with failed O2 sensors or some other cause for very poor A/F ratio. I went the factory recommended 100k miles on the stock plugs with my daily driver '02 Z28, and they looked great when I pulled them (probably could have gone another 50k). Having said that, you might have a tough time getting the stock wires off after 17 years (assuming they have never been removed before) if you want to inspect the plugs. If it were mine, I probably wouldn't bother with this at that mileage unless there was some sort of driveability issue or misfire data (as seen on a scanner) that would indicate plug inspection as a logical diagnostic step, and/or you're already right there doing a header swap or something like this. Ultimately, there is really no gain to be had from aftermarket plugs and/or wires on a stock LS1 unless the factory pieces have actually failed in some way.
As for the exhaust, the "factory upgrade" for the WS6/SS cars is just a smaller muffler with 0.50" larger tail pipes (2.75" vs. 2.25" for base V8s); manifolds, cats, Y-pipe, I-pipe and muffler inlet diameter are all the same. This effectually amounts to nothing in terms of measurable performance improvement as the WS6/SS cars see the same gains as the base model V8s from a catback upgrade or the addition of a cutout. Nothing wrong with leaving the stock system if you like the sound and look, but in terms of flow it's only marginally better than the base V8 system and doesn't negate the performance benefit of an aftermarket system or cutout.
Coolant flush is a great plan, especially if you don't know when it was last done. This often gets overlooked. You might consider deleting the factory power steering cooler while you're doing this. These are problematic and often fail, mixing coolant and power steering fluid (creating a mess out of both systems and usually damaging the power steering pump). This piece is located within the radiator hose and can be easily deleted by ordering a hose for an earlier (such as '98-'99) base model V8 (any non-SS/WS6/Firehawk); by 2002 this piece was standard even on the base V8s. Here's a thread with a bunch of further details and a ton of reading on this issue, and options for an aftermarket cooler if you wanted to go that route (not necessary for typical street applications in my opinion and experience):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...g-success.html
As for the exhaust, the "factory upgrade" for the WS6/SS cars is just a smaller muffler with 0.50" larger tail pipes (2.75" vs. 2.25" for base V8s); manifolds, cats, Y-pipe, I-pipe and muffler inlet diameter are all the same. This effectually amounts to nothing in terms of measurable performance improvement as the WS6/SS cars see the same gains as the base model V8s from a catback upgrade or the addition of a cutout. Nothing wrong with leaving the stock system if you like the sound and look, but in terms of flow it's only marginally better than the base V8 system and doesn't negate the performance benefit of an aftermarket system or cutout.
Coolant flush is a great plan, especially if you don't know when it was last done. This often gets overlooked. You might consider deleting the factory power steering cooler while you're doing this. These are problematic and often fail, mixing coolant and power steering fluid (creating a mess out of both systems and usually damaging the power steering pump). This piece is located within the radiator hose and can be easily deleted by ordering a hose for an earlier (such as '98-'99) base model V8 (any non-SS/WS6/Firehawk); by 2002 this piece was standard even on the base V8s. Here's a thread with a bunch of further details and a ton of reading on this issue, and options for an aftermarket cooler if you wanted to go that route (not necessary for typical street applications in my opinion and experience):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...g-success.html
06-17-2018, 08:53 PM
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Age alone doesn't hurt plugs. I agree that they shouldn't need changing at just 49k miles on a stock LS1 unless those miles were done under severe conditions (such as very short trips in super cold temps) or the vehicle was operated for a significant period with failed O2 sensors or some other cause for very poor A/F ratio. I went the factory recommended 100k miles on the stock plugs with my daily driver '02 Z28, and they looked great when I pulled them (probably could have gone another 50k). Having said that, you might have a tough time getting the stock wires off after 17 years (assuming they have never been removed before) if you want to inspect the plugs. If it were mine, I probably wouldn't bother with this at that mileage unless there was some sort of driveability issue or misfire data (as seen on a scanner) that would indicate plug inspection as a logical diagnostic step, and/or you're already right there doing a header swap or something like this. Ultimately, there is really no gain to be had from aftermarket plugs and/or wires on a stock LS1 unless the factory pieces have actually failed in some way.
As for the exhaust, the "factory upgrade" for the WS6/SS cars is just a smaller muffler with 0.50" larger tail pipes (2.75" vs. 2.25" for base V8s); manifolds, cats, Y-pipe, I-pipe and muffler inlet diameter are all the same. This effectually amounts to nothing in terms of measurable performance improvement as the WS6/SS cars see the same gains as the base model V8s from a catback upgrade or the addition of a cutout. Nothing wrong with leaving the stock system if you like the sound and look, but in terms of flow it's only marginally better than the base V8 system and doesn't negate the performance benefit of an aftermarket system or cutout.
Coolant flush is a great plan, especially if you don't know when it was last done. This often gets overlooked. You might consider deleting the factory power steering cooler while you're doing this. These are problematic and often fail, mixing coolant and power steering fluid (creating a mess out of both systems and usually damaging the power steering pump). This piece is located within the radiator hose and can be easily deleted by ordering a hose for an earlier (such as '98-'99) base model V8 (any non-SS/WS6/Firehawk); by 2002 this piece was standard even on the base V8s. Here's a thread with a bunch of further details and a ton of reading on this issue, and options for an aftermarket cooler if you wanted to go that route (not necessary for typical street applications in my opinion and experience):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...g-success.html
As for the exhaust, the "factory upgrade" for the WS6/SS cars is just a smaller muffler with 0.50" larger tail pipes (2.75" vs. 2.25" for base V8s); manifolds, cats, Y-pipe, I-pipe and muffler inlet diameter are all the same. This effectually amounts to nothing in terms of measurable performance improvement as the WS6/SS cars see the same gains as the base model V8s from a catback upgrade or the addition of a cutout. Nothing wrong with leaving the stock system if you like the sound and look, but in terms of flow it's only marginally better than the base V8 system and doesn't negate the performance benefit of an aftermarket system or cutout.
Coolant flush is a great plan, especially if you don't know when it was last done. This often gets overlooked. You might consider deleting the factory power steering cooler while you're doing this. These are problematic and often fail, mixing coolant and power steering fluid (creating a mess out of both systems and usually damaging the power steering pump). This piece is located within the radiator hose and can be easily deleted by ordering a hose for an earlier (such as '98-'99) base model V8 (any non-SS/WS6/Firehawk); by 2002 this piece was standard even on the base V8s. Here's a thread with a bunch of further details and a ton of reading on this issue, and options for an aftermarket cooler if you wanted to go that route (not necessary for typical street applications in my opinion and experience):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...g-success.html
To orient you the front of the car is to the left and I am on the drivers side. It looks to me like the exhaust is flattened on the left (near the engine) which I figured out was normal. But after whatever that black piece is the pipe gets round and bigger. Is that factory?
06-18-2018, 01:41 AM
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I guess I never looked up the specifics on the exhaust. Just knew it was upgraded. After reading your report on the exhaust I looked under my car and saw this.
To orient you the front of the car is to the left and I am on the drivers side. It looks to me like the exhaust is flattened on the left (near the engine) which I figured out was normal. But after whatever that black piece is the pipe gets round and bigger. Is that factory?
To orient you the front of the car is to the left and I am on the drivers side. It looks to me like the exhaust is flattened on the left (near the engine) which I figured out was normal. But after whatever that black piece is the pipe gets round and bigger. Is that factory?