Repairing cracked boss in Aluminum cylinder head
#1
Repairing cracked boss in Aluminum cylinder head
New set of Trick Flow heads and this happens. I don't know if my torque wrench is way out of cal, or if I just wasn't paying attention, or if the casting is flawed. Either way, here we are....
What repair option is there without removing head from engine? Or is it inevitable that the head will be coming off? This is a boss where the valve cover hold-down screw goes.
I figure welding the crack followed by a heli-coil is the best option but not sure that can be done without removing the head. I would accept a different solution if I could do it myself at home and it turns out acceptable.
*picture removed. no longer needed.*
What repair option is there without removing head from engine? Or is it inevitable that the head will be coming off? This is a boss where the valve cover hold-down screw goes.
I figure welding the crack followed by a heli-coil is the best option but not sure that can be done without removing the head. I would accept a different solution if I could do it myself at home and it turns out acceptable.
*picture removed. no longer needed.*
Last edited by QwkTrip; 08-24-2019 at 09:18 PM.
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Maybe a temporary fix is to use a stud instead of a bolt that way less stress on it (you can also put the threads all the way down to the bottom. Then in winter pull head off and get fixed. Not sure if you can do that depends on side and what is in way to do a clean drop on the valve cover on head.
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#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I'll pretty much agree with KCS on this one. With that said I'm a very experienced welder with my own equipment and i could fix this for myself as it sits but i promise you someone that isn't 100% confident in their abilities will **** this up in a heartbeat. My plan of attack would be to basically spot weld it two or three spots and not grind out the crack. Then a threadsert, i prefer them over a helicoil. Same thing basically but my preference. Clean everything very well and when welding put in a clean bolt in the threaded hole. It'll take some of the heat like a heatsink and save the threaded area. You'll still want a insert because welding will soften the area.
#9
Showdog, what are your thoughts about Loctite Form-A-Thread instead of the thread insert? Advantage is I wouldn't have to remove any more material from the thin wall.
Fortunately engine is still on an engine stand but it was fully assembled and I don't want to take it apart. Talking to a welding shop about bringing the engine down in the back of my truck, driving the truck in the shop, weld, pay, take it back home without ever leaving my sight.
Fortunately engine is still on an engine stand but it was fully assembled and I don't want to take it apart. Talking to a welding shop about bringing the engine down in the back of my truck, driving the truck in the shop, weld, pay, take it back home without ever leaving my sight.
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
Weld it in the back of the truck, take it home and drill it and repair with the motor upside down so all the shavings fall to the floor.
Next time don't use a tq wrench. Just tighten by hand gently until snug.
It's really easy to over shoot tq settings when you're torquing a bolt to real low settings.
Next time don't use a tq wrench. Just tighten by hand gently until snug.
It's really easy to over shoot tq settings when you're torquing a bolt to real low settings.
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Coming from someone that's made many repairs like this i personally wouldn't weld the hole up. No need and then you're left with trying to hand drill a hole that needs to be in a precise location. If you understand aluminum Tig welding you can simply hit it about three times with a real hot(amperage wise) puddle and basically spot it and have plenty of structural integrity left and you've still got the threads there to properly locate a insert. More than one way to skin the ol proverbial cat. Now if you want to take the head off the engine and strip it down I'd do it a bit different but the above mentioned will suffice and hold up from now on.
#12
Thanks, showdog.
As far as why it happened, I think it was caused by hydraulic pressure when tightening the bolt. I had just poured a quart of oil all over the valvetrain and the hole was filled with oil. Also, the wall is very thin on the side that cracked because Trick Flow shaved it off when milling the rocker rail. Both things added up to *SNAP*. Only reason the threads were stripped is because I was perplexed why the screw still had tension on it so I kept playing with the screw after the boss split and spread open.
As far as why it happened, I think it was caused by hydraulic pressure when tightening the bolt. I had just poured a quart of oil all over the valvetrain and the hole was filled with oil. Also, the wall is very thin on the side that cracked because Trick Flow shaved it off when milling the rocker rail. Both things added up to *SNAP*. Only reason the threads were stripped is because I was perplexed why the screw still had tension on it so I kept playing with the screw after the boss split and spread open.
#13
Fixing it right the first time will cost less and be less of a headache than doing it twice.
Pull the head off, give it to someone who can fix this professionally, if you don't have the resources.
Pull the head off, give it to someone who can fix this professionally, if you don't have the resources.
#14
I'm coordinating with a welding shop to fix the boss. This shop does a lot of custom work for the company I work at. Then I'll repair threads with a thin-wall solid insert from Time-Sert.
Engine is on a stand right now so I'm just going to hoist the whole thing into the back of the truck and drive the truck inside the welding shop to the welder where they'll do the work, pay, and be out of there all in one visit.
Engine is on a stand right now so I'm just going to hoist the whole thing into the back of the truck and drive the truck inside the welding shop to the welder where they'll do the work, pay, and be out of there all in one visit.
#15
I'm no expert on Heads and the construction, wall thickness etc...
But if there's any issues lying beneath that crack, I'd say it's more than worth removing the head, getting it fixed 100% right and never having to worry about it again.
It's on an engine stand, too? Come on. Have it fixed right.
Good luck. Hope it all works out. That really sucks getting a brand new set of heads and having to deal with this. It'll all work out though!
EDIT: I didn't see your last post for some reason. Good to hear you're doing this. Good luck
But if there's any issues lying beneath that crack, I'd say it's more than worth removing the head, getting it fixed 100% right and never having to worry about it again.
It's on an engine stand, too? Come on. Have it fixed right.
Good luck. Hope it all works out. That really sucks getting a brand new set of heads and having to deal with this. It'll all work out though!
EDIT: I didn't see your last post for some reason. Good to hear you're doing this. Good luck
#16
9 Second Club
If you can get access to weld it, just weld it...but lets face it, it's only for the rocker cover. It's not like it's holding the head on ! And if it's already bolted to the engine, certainly doesnt need removed for a simple job like that
Drill the hole a little deeper, helicoil it, it will be fine.
FFS it's only an M6 bolt hole.
Drill the hole a little deeper, helicoil it, it will be fine.
FFS it's only an M6 bolt hole.
#17
It's fixed. The weld isn't going to win any style awards... and that's after I spent time grinding on it. But it's fixed. Turns out some of the threads weren't entirely stripped so I used Loctite Form-A-Thread to fill in where material was missing. It was really easy and appears to be plenty strong enough.
Now to move on to my next mishap.
*picture removed by OP*
Now to move on to my next mishap.
*picture removed by OP*
Last edited by QwkTrip; 11-01-2018 at 12:17 AM.
#18
Oh, and the head did come off. I was just about done grinding the weld when I accidentally got the masking paper caught up in the Dremel. Yep. FOOOP!!! That was the sound of paper, tape, and all the metal filings sprayed all over the head. It happened so fast that I was just standing there in disbelief. The kind of disbelief where you don't even say a cuss word.
Fortunately the masking over holes into the engine was still in place so debris was just on the valvetrain. So the head came off, disassembled, cleaned, and so on so forth. Like I said, now on to my next mishap.
Fortunately the masking over holes into the engine was still in place so debris was just on the valvetrain. So the head came off, disassembled, cleaned, and so on so forth. Like I said, now on to my next mishap.
#19
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Good deal. Now tell us about your “next mishap”...
#20
TECH Senior Member
Yeah, we live vicariously thru other's mishaps so we don't have to hassle with ours...