Looking To Build Motor (Few Years), Let's Say Budget Wasn't An Issue..Wheel HP 500+
03-17-2019, 12:14 PM
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Looking To Build Motor (Few Years), Let's Say Budget Wasn't An Issue..Wheel HP 500+ As the title states above! Let's discuss as I'm curious. I"ve done several g's worth of mods this fall / winter / spring so I have to hold off for a few years. Wife and I agreed let's get a house first and then we both agreed to build my motor to high heavens.
Car - 97 Z28 A4
Current Mileage - 75,8XX
Trans - A4
Rear - Stock with full 373's and Richmond MEGA rebuild kit, will replace once blow, TA girdle, TA main cap kit; rear was replaced under warranty in 2000 according to GM records
Uses - Street 98%, Strip 2%, Just alot of cruising and having a mean as hell LT1. Wanting a very reliable NA motor build that won't break or leave me stranded.
Mods - Bolton's, 373's, entire front and rear umi suspension, strano springs, bilstein shocks, full 255 LPH racetronix kit and wiring
Budget $15,000 + (just thinking motor work and installation alone) (Rear and Trans can happen as they break) or need to be replaced. Have listed them below just to get input.
Items that I am thinking about but again I am no expert but I want the best of the absolute best parts that work the best together. Big money or not.
- Transmission, thinking FLT / RPM / Performa Built ($4000), open to other options
- Converter thinking YANK / Circle D / Pro BIllet Series Triple Disk ($1200)
- Rearend, thinking MWC / Mark Williams 9in; the works everything ($5000)
- Trans Cooler good for 32,000 #GVW ($200 - 300)
- All forged internals (Lunati, Wisesco?, Callies??) more options? $2000
- Motor size 383 or 396, machine work thinking of current local options such as jon wischmann or spanel engines; open to everyone and everything $2000 +
- Heads AFR's top flowing LT1 head with even further porting if possible ($3000 +)
- FInd a true LT4 intake manifold and have it ported for a 58mm TB and everything cleaned up ($500 for intake, $400 for porting or so) $1000
- 58 mm TB $500
- Billet cam $600
- Fuel upgrades $1000
- Tune $500 +
Anything else? The biggest things is the brands that are the top dogs; everyone has an opinion. I really think for example LE is great, but since my budget is not really an issue I'm thinking I can do better heads and flow for my budget.
Thanks!
Car - 97 Z28 A4
Current Mileage - 75,8XX
Trans - A4
Rear - Stock with full 373's and Richmond MEGA rebuild kit, will replace once blow, TA girdle, TA main cap kit; rear was replaced under warranty in 2000 according to GM records
Uses - Street 98%, Strip 2%, Just alot of cruising and having a mean as hell LT1. Wanting a very reliable NA motor build that won't break or leave me stranded.
Mods - Bolton's, 373's, entire front and rear umi suspension, strano springs, bilstein shocks, full 255 LPH racetronix kit and wiring
Budget $15,000 + (just thinking motor work and installation alone) (Rear and Trans can happen as they break) or need to be replaced. Have listed them below just to get input.
Items that I am thinking about but again I am no expert but I want the best of the absolute best parts that work the best together. Big money or not.
- Transmission, thinking FLT / RPM / Performa Built ($4000), open to other options
- Converter thinking YANK / Circle D / Pro BIllet Series Triple Disk ($1200)
- Rearend, thinking MWC / Mark Williams 9in; the works everything ($5000)
- Trans Cooler good for 32,000 #GVW ($200 - 300)
- All forged internals (Lunati, Wisesco?, Callies??) more options? $2000
- Motor size 383 or 396, machine work thinking of current local options such as jon wischmann or spanel engines; open to everyone and everything $2000 +
- Heads AFR's top flowing LT1 head with even further porting if possible ($3000 +)
- FInd a true LT4 intake manifold and have it ported for a 58mm TB and everything cleaned up ($500 for intake, $400 for porting or so) $1000
- 58 mm TB $500
- Billet cam $600
- Fuel upgrades $1000
- Tune $500 +
Anything else? The biggest things is the brands that are the top dogs; everyone has an opinion. I really think for example LE is great, but since my budget is not really an issue I'm thinking I can do better heads and flow for my budget.
Thanks!
Last edited by blk97z28; 03-17-2019 at 12:22 PM.
03-17-2019, 04:15 PM
#2
Also....Lots of compression…...12.5+:1.....solid roller valve-train....cam in the 250*/260*, 112* + 2* range.
Might need a hydra-boost kit for the brakes (I did) because a cam that size will build very little vacuum….
Also.....the biggest LT headers you can fit under the hood....1 7/8"?....2"?
Best of luck.
KW
Last edited by KW Baraka; 03-17-2019 at 04:39 PM.
03-17-2019, 05:27 PM
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That was my other thought!
procharger / super charger (not really a turbo fan).
i would still prefer and built motor, still
go with forged everything.
i seen a video of a nice stroker 383 with a pro charger. I’d be good with something like that, yet streetable.
what about going SC / PC?
procharger / super charger (not really a turbo fan).
i would still prefer and built motor, still
go with forged everything.
i seen a video of a nice stroker 383 with a pro charger. I’d be good with something like that, yet streetable.
what about going SC / PC?
Last edited by blk97z28; 03-17-2019 at 05:36 PM.
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03-18-2019, 09:39 AM
#8
That was my other thought!
procharger / super charger (not really a turbo fan).
i would still prefer and built motor, still
go with forged everything.
i seen a video of a nice stroker 383 with a pro charger. I’d be good with something like that, yet streetable.
what about going SC / PC?
procharger / super charger (not really a turbo fan).
i would still prefer and built motor, still
go with forged everything.
i seen a video of a nice stroker 383 with a pro charger. I’d be good with something like that, yet streetable.
what about going SC / PC?
So, given what you are looking for, try picking a more mild camshaft with ample vacuum and going with either of those stroker builds you mentioned before. The stroker will give you more instant torque on demand and paired with a slightly more aggressive cam from stock and the turbo, you are going to have quite the MEAN ride! Since turbos don't have much room in the engine bay, and I was considering this option for myself maybe, you would do well to go with a rear mounted turbo kit that uses a funnel to bring in air from the inside of the rear fenders. I hope this comment was intriguing!
03-18-2019, 10:47 AM
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I should refrain.
the car has been drive less than 1,000 miles since June 2011. Not a daily in the least, but also not a race car; I’ve put alot of time and money into appearance and making it look all factory quality etc.
i would hate to chop up the front bumper to fit the FMIC, but is there another option? Either that or a built motor?
the car has been drive less than 1,000 miles since June 2011. Not a daily in the least, but also not a race car; I’ve put alot of time and money into appearance and making it look all factory quality etc.
i would hate to chop up the front bumper to fit the FMIC, but is there another option? Either that or a built motor?
03-18-2019, 10:56 AM
#10
I should refrain.
the car has been drive less than 1,000 miles since June 2011. Not a daily in the least, but also not a race car; I’ve put alot of time and money into appearance and making it look all factory quality etc.
i would hate to chop up the front bumper to fit the FMIC, but is there another option? Either that or a built motor?
the car has been drive less than 1,000 miles since June 2011. Not a daily in the least, but also not a race car; I’ve put alot of time and money into appearance and making it look all factory quality etc.
i would hate to chop up the front bumper to fit the FMIC, but is there another option? Either that or a built motor?
03-18-2019, 02:57 PM
#14
I should refrain.
the car has been drive less than 1,000 miles since June 2011. Not a daily in the least, but also not a race car; I’ve put alot of time and money into appearance and making it look all factory quality etc.
i would hate to chop up the front bumper to fit the FMIC, but is there another option? Either that or a built motor?
the car has been drive less than 1,000 miles since June 2011. Not a daily in the least, but also not a race car; I’ve put alot of time and money into appearance and making it look all factory quality etc.
i would hate to chop up the front bumper to fit the FMIC, but is there another option? Either that or a built motor?
[Post Edit]: It is not advised by other members to use long tube headers with a rear mount kit. I understand the principals behind it, it is not the volume of exhaust gases but the velocity and the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds are the best for this in both heat retention and increasing exhaust gas velocity with their smaller plumbing. Good thing to know! Then this has me wondering if port matching will be in order with the turbo set-up. Just so I know and so anyone else reading this knows.
Oh! I take it exhaust velocity may get a bump with a stroker set-up given the needs for smaller exhaust system to better spool the turbos in regards to a rear mount set-up?!
Last edited by Phoenix'97; 03-18-2019 at 03:25 PM.
03-18-2019, 06:33 PM
#15
Someone correct me if I am wrong but instead of going this route with an intercooler, assuming you are looking into turbocharging or even twin turbo charging, why not go with a rear mount? Yeah, it is a lot more plumbing but the air will cool down on it's way back to the intake which is why the rear mount is attractive to some F-body guys who simply don't have the engine compartment space to fit conventional twin turbos in addition to an intercooler! Furthermore, with a rear mount you can get away with using long tube headers instead of using special headers to spin the turbos in the conventional set-up. More food for thought.
[Post Edit]: It is not advised by other members to use long tube headers with a rear mount kit. I understand the principals behind it, it is not the volume of exhaust gases but the velocity and the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds are the best for this in both heat retention and increasing exhaust gas velocity with their smaller plumbing. Good thing to know! Then this has me wondering if port matching will be in order with the turbo set-up. Just so I know and so anyone else reading this knows.
Oh! I take it exhaust velocity may get a bump with a stroker set-up given the needs for smaller exhaust system to better spool the turbos in regards to a rear mount set-up?!
[Post Edit]: It is not advised by other members to use long tube headers with a rear mount kit. I understand the principals behind it, it is not the volume of exhaust gases but the velocity and the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds are the best for this in both heat retention and increasing exhaust gas velocity with their smaller plumbing. Good thing to know! Then this has me wondering if port matching will be in order with the turbo set-up. Just so I know and so anyone else reading this knows.
Oh! I take it exhaust velocity may get a bump with a stroker set-up given the needs for smaller exhaust system to better spool the turbos in regards to a rear mount set-up?!
Do not go rear mount, either do it right, or just stick with NA. Yes you can make a rear mount work, and yes it will be a pain to do, and more than likely cost a lot more for a laggy car.
If you are going to not commit all the way, please just stick with a well done up nasty NA motor and enjoy. Half assing a turbo/blower build will leave nothing but regret in your mind.
03-19-2019, 03:34 AM
#16
I know better, but.. here goes nothing.
Do not go rear mount, either do it right, or just stick with NA. Yes you can make a rear mount work, and yes it will be a pain to do, and more than likely cost a lot more for a laggy car.
If you are going to not commit all the way, please just stick with a well done up nasty NA motor and enjoy. Half assing a turbo/blower build will leave nothing but regret in your mind.
Do not go rear mount, either do it right, or just stick with NA. Yes you can make a rear mount work, and yes it will be a pain to do, and more than likely cost a lot more for a laggy car.
If you are going to not commit all the way, please just stick with a well done up nasty NA motor and enjoy. Half assing a turbo/blower build will leave nothing but regret in your mind.
The original poster states that money is not a problem, that money is no object here! With that said, having the funds to CORRECTLY set this up, will the rear mount be worth his while given his reluctance to tear up the front of the car to fit an intercooler and trying to figure out how to make one turbo charger fit let alone two in the engine bay? Regardless of lacking "optimal placement" at the engine and with the hottest exhaust gasses to spin the turbos, what is it going to hurt to use a rear mount set-up? The trade off of having some lag with the rear mount comes from not requiring an intercooler, however there have to be ways around this! Furthermore, unless this is more a volume issue and less a velocity issue, wouldn't a stroker engine with thin diameter exhaust be a means to get around the lag if the exhaust is designed properly? These systems can't be all that bad if others have found success in using them on the track. Sure they are a royal pain but they give F-body guys a real option compared to just being stuck with a supercharger which, we can argue the merits of using it over a turbo for higher RPM power!
Back to the point, the rear mount, whether you like it or straight-out hate it, provides a real option! Making it work as well as a front mount turbo is the issue but I am sure it can be done and done well with enough money to invest!