k3000

I'm thinking about sending my new TA over to the PDR guy to see if he can do anything with a couple of small dings in the quarters and one small ding in the hood.

I'm thinking the fenders and doors are plastic panels, at least on the outside? Am I right about that?

I'm struck by the total absence of any small waves or dings on the doors and fenders. Frankly, for a 20 year old car with original paint, the doors and fenders look pretty darn good! Am I just lucky, or are the doors and fenders made out of something that's dent and wave resistant, like the Fiero's were?

If they are plastic, what happens if something that would normally make a small ding hits them? Do they crack? Or does only the paint get scratched or what usually happens on these panels if something hits them lightly?

I've read the outer door skins are plastic, I think, and I've seen fenders that looked cracked after an actual collision, I think. Can someone confirm for me please?

Thank you,

Lee

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

Doors, rear hatch, and front fenders are all fiberglass/plastic.

Carguy8888

iTrader: (1)

My guy recently just took a ding out of my quarter panel before I murdered my neighbor. He drilled a hole in the plastic inner fender liner and then put a rubber plug in. It was perfect when he was done.

k3000

I feel like maybe the metal on the quarters is a lot thinner than the metals used to be? I see so many of these cars with really wavy dinged up quarters. My quarters need a mild to moderate tune up, if it's possible, and I have 1 ding in the hood. Looks like maybe a tool was dropped on it.

jlcustomz

Modern PDR has it's limits, but a person with good skills, a few tools & lighting can work wonders on modern thin sheet metal with most smaller dents. Creases are another story along with large dents that stretch out the metal.
Metal has a certain amount of memory in it which PDR can return it to.
Fiberglass & plastic parts are extremely dent resistant up to the point of cracking.

k3000

Good point, I know if the metal is stretched the only thing that would work is a good shrinking hammer and filler!

Carguy8888

iTrader: (1)

My next door garage neighbor gave me my one door ding and I thought getting it removed is better than choking her LOL.
If I had to guess metal on cars is roughly 24 gauge and needs to crumple like tinfoil so the person does not. The fire doors I work with are much thicker. My paintless dent guy is the biggest crybaby in the world, I know him for decades. He cries and takes two minutes to pop the dent out. Half the battle is getting the access. It's much easier if you'll let them drill a hole in your inner fender and plug it. Some technicians are better than others because it is an art.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

You're forgetting about heat and quench.

Carguy8888

iTrader: (1)

You're right, I did not think of that which is a whole nother animal.

k3000

LMAO! He cries first and then pushes the dents.

I've been wondering about that. Do they always need to drill holes or not always?

And, what do they plug with? Like that black putty car audio installer's use?

Carguy8888

iTrader: (1)

I didn't look at it close but similar to a plastic push pin. You won't see it w/o jacking the car up and looking for it.

k3000

This is VERY interesting. I was picturing the PDR guy going in from the interior, not from under the car.

I'm going to have to ask the PDR guy I'm thinking about trying to explain some of his techniques.

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

it's definitely an art and a technique that if done wrong can cause more damage than what they are trying to fix. We had a guy come into my high school shop class to give us a little how to, man that **** is tough. And like the other have said, access is hardest part part, with all the inner structure in modern cars it's half the battle to just get close to the dent, let alone be able to work it.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

doors and hatch are SMC.....fender.....plastic