Jon M

Hey all, so I got the car back together after pulling the engine and k member. Only the two front brake lines were disconnected at the ABS module. Following the instructions in the shop manual, I did the bleed procedure. My only issue is the right rear has a massive amount of air in it. There are zero leaks but no matter what, I cannot stop getting air out of it. The other three were just fine. I used a whole quart of brake fluid already.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

It's a sealed system so the air has to be introduced from somewhere, If the left rear doesn't have the same issue then the issue should only be from the T splitter on the rear to the right rear caliper. If it was getting air between the master and the T at the rear then both rear sides would have air in them.

Jon M

I will check that tomorrow. I literally touched nothing but the fronts and bleeder screws. If air was coming i wouldn’t fluid be coming out?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

How are you doing this brake bleed?

Jon M

With a hand pump/vac bleeder kit.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Does it have a dedicated fitting that screws into the caliper or does it slip over the stock bleeder? If it slips over the stock bleeder type then it might be sucking air where the bleeder screws in the caliper. Try having someone pump the pedal and do a traditional brake bleed instead of using the vacuum pump.

Jon M

I slipped the tube on over the nipple. I thought this might be the issue, but it sealed on the other three. I am going to try again and see what happens

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

use grease around the threads.

Jon M

Do you mean around the nipple threads?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

yep. take out the port. grease the threads and then put it back in. hold a finger over the hole if need be, but not a lot will leak out. Also use grease around the tube/port when connecting.

Jon M

Well alright. I assume that’ll work on the ABS module nipples too? Was getting a lotta air there too

BALLSS

Jon, likely air coming through the threads on loosen bleeder screw

FWIW I have used Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads ONLY (read don't get it on the needle bottom part) when using a Mighty Vac to bleed the brakes.

Jon M

Excellent. I will try that tomorrow, it looked like the tube wasn’t sealing but it definitely was. Air makes sense from the screw. Thank you all again

Adam1203

iTrader: (5)

I use a reverse brake bleader you can get them on amazon pretty cheap and work far better then the vacuum style.

https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Ew. Bleeding the module isn’t straight forward. Something about valves needed to be actuated to get all air out of the ABS block. Shoebox has a “backyard” way of doing it. There’s also a way to do it with a ABS tool, but I don’t know specifics or if it can be rented.

Adam1203

iTrader: (5)

If you use a reverse brake bleader like I said where instead of sucking the brake fluid down you force it up and into the reservoir you dont need a scan tool it bleeds the abs module to. I have been using that tool for 4 year or and it has been fantastic it made bleeding brakes and hydraulic clutches a breeze.

I bought it after we couldn't get a hydraulic clutch to bleed. I also dont have to bend prime units any more by using that. Just install and pump the fluid in.

Jon M

manual says no special need for unit. Just back bleeder than front bleeder

Jon M

great idea, just another $43 on top of the $25 I spent on this. If I get desperate, hello Prime

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

What manual? I have a haynes that also says you need to seal the water jackets on the intake manifold.
If you have an ABS module there are a network of passage ways controlled by valves and those valves must be triggered in order to get all the air out of the block and brake lines.
I know other things have been suggested, but my go-to has always been a Motive bleeder. Expensive, but worth it.

Jon M