BurnieC10

Hey Everybody!

I am new to the forum and LS in general. I have done a bunch of research and pretty much got overwhelmed with information and differing opinions. Looking for some feedback on my plan for a setup.

I have a early 2000 (2000 or 2001) DBC 5.3 from a Tahoe that I will be swapping into a 1972 C10. The goal of this are as follows, a good street motor with early and flat torque curve. Keep it economical. Build for future (within reason). Have fun and learn along the way.

The engine is typical truck intake, 706 heads, dished flexplate/short crank, etc.

The plan from the top:

• Holley Sniper EFI (currently have it on the sbc in the truck)
• Holley Dual Plane Intake
• MSD LS Ignition box
• Keep 706 Heads (DIY port and potential polish) - this is me wanting to learn and optimize the heads
• DIY port match intake and heads - Again learning and optimizing
• .040 Head Gasket (to bump the compression a little bit), this may change once I get the heads off and see if they need decked.
• Potentially Studs unless they are a waste at this point?
• Cam (not sure want to focus on low end grunt) potentially "sloppy best", truck norris sounds good not sure performance. Looking for something lower and mid range as I wont be spinning 6000+ often. Also a choppy idle is a secondary bonus
• Valvesprings cam will dictate this but not sure where to go
• Ebay stainless headers (came with the engine I am debating on Flowtech Cast Manifolds)
• LS7 lifters??? when is that neccesary
• Potential 4.8 flat top pistons (need to look into quench and see how it will all play together, again compression boost)
• Running the current TH350 with a 2800 stall converter, shift kit, nothing crazy

I want to get it in the truck and have some fun. This is a cruiser and toy, not current plans for a track or anything. Future: I would like to go to a 4L80e for overdrive and throw some boost at it (centrifugal superchargers or turbo). Eventually I would like to be around 550 to the tire, some additional work there outside of the power adders. Not concerned about max hp at this point, I want something with decent power on tap and good butt dyno feel.

Thanks in advance, big questions are: HG/flat tops and compression good idea? What cam and valve springs to match?

-Reuben

G Atsma

If you want to be economical keep the stock ignition/injection/ECM system. It's already on the engine so it's free.
It will outperform any aftermarket system. Don't overthink this....

BurnieC10

I already have the sniper and intake manifold, so that is a no cost. My opinion, after I pay for a harness (stock is all cut up) and a tune it would be close to the same as I have into my setup. Also want to keep the sbc look. If I were to keep the factory setup I would go with a terminator X max (for future 4l80e potential). However, for about $6-800 I can run the sniper and move to a terminator X max when the time comes. I can also sell the intake, rails, and ECM and recoup some of the money. Make sense?

LS1 TJ

2X on the stock GM engine and trans control. Even with the later added boost the GM stuff has been used for years. On my 68 C10 LS6/4L60E swap I used Speed Engineering SS 1 3/4" long tube headers. They fit well. Didn't hang low. I know they are China made but I didn't have the cash for a $1200 set US made.
I would do the LS7 lifters now for two reasons. You are putting in a new cam. And if those are the stock lifters that came in the 5.3 they are 23 years old.
I buy the upgraded push rods, cam and springs from Texas Speed but many vendors have them along with the cam. I'm not a turbo guy but as I understand they don't need or want a big cam to run well.

BurnieC10

So even better than like a Holley Terminator? I could see you have more control over the engine with the factory stuff. I just don't like the thought of having to pay someone to tune it when I make a change. On the other hand I understand the self learning along withy tuning is only so good.

BurnieC10

Good point on the lifters. Any thoughts on .040 head gasket and/or flat top pistons? Also any cam recommendations? I looked at some Dyno pulls and it seems the Truck Norris would be a good cam at this point. Lifted the whole torque curve. Compared to the sloppy best cam it was a better choice. I'm just not sure what to compare it to.

LS1 TJ

My .02 again.
If you are going to do a turbo in the future build your engine to work best with a turbo. Again I'm not a turbo guy. All my LS builds have been NA. I've spent time on this site quizzing the folks on my NA LS cams choices. I'm a small to medium cam guy. Lumpy idles are fun for awhile (IMO) but for a nice summer cruiser the smaller cams make great drivers and are super easy to tune. Check with more than one vendor cam wise to see if their opinions are similar.
In regards to GM versus the Holley stuff, I like the GM stuff because you can get replacement parts almost any place. Holley has a good rep but I don't need the adjustability they offer.
Again my .02 I would lose the turbo 350 and go 4l80E straight out of the gate. That means one tune not two. And only one drive shaft build.
Oh and since I love spending other folks money upgrade to 1350 u-joints.
Good luck with your project.
Pic of my 68 C10 LS6/4L60E swap. It was a great project.

dawgs74

Your train of thought is just fine if your budget is of concern….years ago i too swapped a ‘68 c/10 i had owned…nothing crazy just a 5.3 with the 4.8 piston swap and an asa cam along with a 3000 stalled th350……that truck was a riot and hauled ***, it was relatively cheap to do and pretty much the same as what your working with…other than i kept the factory intake but used a fitech LS standalone ecu…..i regret getting rid of that truck but i ended up picking up a 73 swb fleet about a year later and that too has a very close setup but with a diffrent cam , terminator x, and a vortech super charger

It too has a 3000 stalled th350

BurnieC10

Plans have changed like 500 times, I ended up with an engine already built for boost. 5.3, gen 4 rods, BTR forged pistons, ARP head studs, ARP hardware through the bottom end, polished crank, balanced rotating assembly, high volume oil pump. So I sold off my other 5.3, also got a 4l80e. Engine was a fresh rebuild 0 miles. Paid $3500 for the engine and trans. Swapped the cam and put some PAC 1211x 384 lb springs

I bought a log manifold turbo setup and was going to run a 76/65 .96 AR. But I'm looking at trading for a Vortech V-1. Then I can get the engine in and running them add the Vortech layer if I decide to wait.

I wanted to ask how you like the the Vortech?? Not a ton of them I can find on 5.3's Richard Holder has great dyno results on a video. But looking for some real world input.

Also planning a 3000-3200 stall converter in the 4l80e. Running a MaddMaxx TSP cam (not the best for boost but I'll see how it does)

Also turned into a full build, big steelies, air bags, gauges, etc, etc haha

dawgs74

The vortech is awesome, sounds great too, i have a LSA blower on a 370” Ls3 headed LQ9 in my nova and that one makes gobbs of power right off the line….as opposed to the vortech which you have to wind out to make the power…its a completley different animal but i think it sounds sooooo much better and is a bit funner to drive…..

dawgs74

I changed the charge pipe to full 3” all the way along with a 3” in & 3” out mishimoto innercooler…..night and day difference!!!

BurnieC10

Awesome, I picked up the V-1 has 3" piping with dual BOV (any light on why there is 2?, my only thought was if on fails the risk of breaking a shaft is higher vs a turbo?) A2W intercooler, with water pump, tank, and front mount heat exchanger.

If you have any videos I would love to hear it! Every video I find is a Vortech on a mustang. Seems like Vortech is in bed with the mustang crowd haha!