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A little about me:
Iv been on the forum for quite some time. Back in 2012 i LQ4/t56 swapped a 240sx with a pt7675 and in 2013 i transferred everything into a much cleaner 350z that i still have to this day. In 2023 i drove the Z 1k miles after being limited to mostly errands on the weekend and that was at every opportunity possible and the car was never out of commission. Since i built the Z iv gone from being a kid to a homeowner, husband and father. Recently i decided i wanted to build another car..... an almost daily driver.
With hopes of having a running and driving car for the spring i began searching for a later model bmw.
A little about the swap:
The almost perfect shell: 2013 750i:
Factory dual exhaust (quiet enough for the neighbors at 6am meant i could drive it m-f)
4 doors for my toddler in the back seat
Luxury for my wife riding shotgun
Original engine was a TT-V8 so the factory cooling/exhaust/fuel system will be adequate.
M-sport for the nicer wheels and aero/trim package
Paint and interior are in amazing condition at 1/3 the price of a decent 240sx.
The trans and blown motor have a decent part out value. (cats, electronics, fuel system)
this particular car has electronic power steering (no pump or reservoir) and standard sway bars, not the adjusting "active" sway bars
standard rear suspension, not air suspension that could be problematic.
Its rwd, not an x-drive, so i dont have to pull the front axles, swap the subframe, pull a transfer case.... pulling the motor is already a PITA as it is.
The only better shell in my case would be a blown up f10 550i that came with a clutch pedal from the factory but those are RARE.
Obstacles:
I'm not an auto guy. the f10 manual pedal set needs to fit. im confident it will, i but won't get a chance to test for 2 weeks.
Figuring out CAN signal for tach, a/c with fan control, traction control, temp sensor ...
Use of the factory throttle pedal
Although Mike form LSe90 has fine tuned the e90 swap with terminator X max he is just beginning the f30. he has not done a f01 7-series yet. I wish he did, id buy it all from him.
All signs point to MAXXECU or Holley.
The drivetrain:
I've had this sitting around for some time.
2019 ly6 (iron gen 4 6.0) from PSI
2002 t56
ls3 heads/valves/intake
Texas speed f35 cam kit
Springs, push rods, trunnion kit, melling pump, arp, timing set..........
I think i'm going to have to modify my f-body ls1 oil pan.
once i pull the motor i need to:
set the 6.0/t56 and make the motor/trans mounts.
drill a hole in the trans tunnel for the shifter.
confirm that the ac compressor and alternator clear the crossmember with corvette pulley spacing.
measure for a driveshaft after seemslegitgarage produces the diff adapter. im told its in the works.
ballpark the flowtech shorty headers for clearance and build 2.75" down pipes to join with the stock exhaust.
radiator hose and fuel line should be child's play.
make a 4" intake
figure out the wiring
make a custom shift trim
I finally got a chance to fit the clutch pedal assembly today.
I was as much of a PITA as i thought it would be.
Im 6'2" but it would suck for anyone. It's worse than a 240sx pedal swap.
The cliff notes:
1) Remove the under-dash trim panel and lower airbag (for your shins/knees) ... yea... didn't make much sense to me either.
2) Unbolt the brake booster and push it towards the engine bay
3) Go up top and remove the brake fluid reservoir and pull the booster forward as far as possible.
4) Unbolt the electronics from the original pedal assy and remove complete assy.
5) Take your F10 5-series clutch/brake pedal assy and remove the black plastic module holder and the clutch pedal arm itself.
(leave the clutch master on the pedal assy and don't get hit with the pedal return spring).
6) X marks the spot. look on the firewall for where the clutch fluid reservoir hose goes. its there waiting for you.
7) Install the new pedal assy
8) Bolt the booster back in and install the brake fluid reservoir. The nipple on the side feeds the clutch master cylinder
9) Install the clutch pedal arm into the assy, hook up the clutch master cylinder and return spring
10) Bolt up the black plastic module holder (this was the worst part)
11) Install the module and electronics to pedal.
12) Notch the under-dash trim so the clutch pedal doesn't interfere and re-install the airbag. (i ran out of time before i could notch it)
This was the one piece of the puzzle that i wasn't willing to negotiate on and wasn't sure it would work. The 5-series pedal HAD to fit. I was not willing to do custom pedals.
I've heard that the F10 (5-series) and F01 (7-series) are based on the same platform but i wondered if the 7-series had more electronics that might prevent the pedal swap.
I took some time to fit the under-dash trim for the clutch pedal. It started out pretty small but the swing of clutch pedal made it grow substantially.
My spare t56 needed a rebuild but I've decided that the bmw will get the t56 from the z and the z will get this t56 with carbon fiber synchros/ bronze pads/ billet keys.
I ended up rebuilding 3 t56's at the same time after a reasonable learning curve. Project LS 750i is back on track.
Next is to indicate a factory bellhousing to the 6.0 and begin pulling the factory motor out of the car.
The BMW will have some similarities to my 350z.
The Z is all GM under the hood but the outside fits the stereotype of a standard JDM import. Lowered considerably, big jdm wheels, 2 huge fart cans for an exhaust, carbon fiber hood....
The BMW is no different. There are 2 stereotypes to pick from.... first owner/business man..... and second owner/drug dealer.... im going for option #2.
Slammed on 20" Leon Hardiritt Gral wheels and dark tint. i would have went for 22's if NY had better roads.
Like all my cars, the BMW will be receiving stoptech brakes. This kit consists of ST60 calipers with 380mm x 32mm rotors and the seller threw in a strut brace. Both sat in his garage for years.
02-17-2024, 07:22 PM
2013 750i 6.0/t56 swap 
