HawkFanatic

iTrader: (1)

Manual trans guys - where does your clutch pedal sit? I just bought a 96 WS6, and when I got it, the first thing I noticed was how low the pedal was compared to my LS1 car. It is closer to the firewall than the brake pedal. The clutch engaged and released fine, but with a very short throw arc, like a light switch - either on or off.

Once I got it home, I noticed this sketchy Master/Slave cylinder combo and figured that was the problem. Replaced it with a new pre-bled ACdelco unit 174-1072. When I removed the Master, I saw the pedal would swing higher, so I thought the Master was the problem. But when I put the new stock master in and attached it to the clutch pedal, the pedal was low again. The new master/slave combo definitely helped with driveability and a smoother clutch engagement, but the pedal is still closer to the floor. Is this just an LT1 thing, or is something else going on?

AgFormula02

iTrader: (13)

Stock mine was at the same level as the brake.
how did it mount? Stock uses a u bolt
I recently replaced mine with a Tick adjustable and the height was cut in about half once properly adjusted. The tick one mounted with 2 bolts vs the U bolt for rock mounting.
I have to say the rods in the pics are shorter than my stock one.

jybravo70

iTrader: (5)

That is an adjustable "performance" master cylinder and can move fluid much more efficiently over the OEM one (unless your OEM line has had the "drill mod" done to break out the restriction orifice. The other item might be a slave but I have only done this on a 2002 TA so not sure about the pre-'98 models. This is one of the upgrades people usually do when they start upgrading their manual transmissions. The pedal height was "low" because the stock setup uses a helper spring to raise the clutch pedal off the floor. Most likely the helper spring was tossed when the upgraded master was put in as they don't need the spring to work right. One advantage is you can adjust the pedal height but there is a procedure needed to do that and it can be found the master cylinder's web site (looks like a Tick Performance one to me). There are a ton of videos and posts about the drill mod and why people do it and its advantages.

Nothing wrong with the OEM but if you have engine mods and an aggressive clutch the OEM master might not work as well under those conditions. If you have a OEM clutch and slave there is no real need for that mater but you will most likely need to get a helper spring and check the 2 clutch pedal sensors (the one for clutch pedal down - for starting, and the one for clutch pedal up - for cruise control), again not sure if the pre '98's would have these but on mine it started to throw clutch pedal codes soon after I upgraded until I rigged something up to fill the gaps by the pedal being lower now.

HawkFanatic

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies guys. To answer some questions, I did not use the U bolt, just regular hardware to bolt the Master up. Boy what a pain that was.
The pic I posted does not include the threaded coupler that was used to transfer from the clutch pedal to the MC. Thats why it looks short.

The car is missing the clutch return spring and associated bushings. But as I understand it, some cars came with and some without it? I bought the spring and bushings to put in anyway, but even if I pull up on the clutch pedal with my foot, it doesnt want to really go anywhere.
Everything related to the neutral safety switch, and the cruise control switch works correctly, so I just dont know. Its like the distance between the pivot point of the pedal, and the point where the MC mounts is too short or something. The clutch doesnt fully disengage until the pedal is almost to the floor, so maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I will check when I pull the transmission to replace the leaking RMS.

The LT1 style slave is much different that the LS1 style. It is and external pull style vs the LS1 internal push slave.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

that is a tick adjustable master cylinder that you removed, you should've been able to adjust the pedal height to be even with the brake pedal using that threaded coupler not pictured. I had one on my car and loved it, just had to upgrade when I went with a twin disk. you either had an issue with that aftermarket slave (purple part) or the clutch itself, I always replace the slave with an OEM unit even with my twin disk they are good

HawkFanatic

iTrader: (1)

Thanks - after some research, I am assuming it is the previous version of this kit:

https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/93-...-cylinder-kit/

But since the pedal is very similar now to how it was with this Master/Slave setup, I have to assume its something in the clutch or clutch fork perhaps.

When you installed the 7/8" MC, how did it change the pedal action?

HawkFanatic

iTrader: (1)

So after further inspection, I would swear that the stock Delco master cylinder rod is too short. It's the only thing that makes sense. If I take the rod off the pedal, and remove the clutch take up switch at the top, the pedal will swing to it's correct position. But the rod on the MC is is topping out before the pedal can return to its proper position. Does anyone know what the length from center of eye hole to bast of MC is supposed to be?

HawkFanatic

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I contacted ACDelco's tech support line, and asked for dimensions. They said the rod should be 9.7 inches from eyelet to mounting flange, and the max stroke is 1.4"

I got in my foot well and took some measurements. Its tough to twll with it installed, but it seems the MC rod is the correct length. I measured 6.25" from the top of the MC to the eyelet center. If anyone has a spare stock MC laying around and can confirm those numbers that would be great.
I also noticed the rod is only stroking about 3/4" before the clutch pedal bottoms out. It is just barely disengaging the clutch at that point.

I put a straight edge across the brake pedal and measured the clutch pedal pad approximately 1.5" below the plane of the brake pedal.

Assuming the MC is correct, what else could be causing this? Should I get a new set of pedals?