Lnc 2000 and no lift shifting?
08-01-2024, 12:01 PM
#1
Lnc 2000 and no lift shifting? So I just ordered a lnc 2000 and I'm trying to figure out if you can no lift shift with it. I originally was gonna go with a wot box but wanted timing control to make boost on the 2 step off the line and from a roll, have a msd and only made 1lb at 4000rpm. Also would like to be able to activate on a button for rolling antilag, the msd needs to drop below launch rpm to activate again ruling out no lift shifts, is it possible to use the lnc to clutch activate for 2 step launch and then also for no lift shift? As well as have a button setup to use for rolling antilag? This electronic stuff has my brain fried.
08-01-2024, 12:50 PM
#2
I just did the rolling anti-lag with my MSD 2-step box and its marvelous.
The rpm window has to be below 1/3 of the set rpm limit to work.
So, in my case, the two step is set 3,000rpm, but the engine rpm must be at or below 2,000 rpm to activate.
So as long as you activate and are below that threshold it will work.
I can be rolling at 10-15mph, hit my brakes (because that's how I have set up to activate), mash the gas, build 5ish lbs., release the brake and whoa doggy lol.
Now for no lift shifting, I wouldn't recommend this.
It's cool yes but unless you don't mind forking over the money to fix a very expensive T56 regularly, it's just not worth it.
A local guy loves doing those in his procharged Viper and he's on his 5th or 6th rebuild iirc.
If you're that concerned with shift speed and going fast, sell the T56, switch to an auto and have money left over.
The rpm window has to be below 1/3 of the set rpm limit to work.
So, in my case, the two step is set 3,000rpm, but the engine rpm must be at or below 2,000 rpm to activate.
So as long as you activate and are below that threshold it will work.
I can be rolling at 10-15mph, hit my brakes (because that's how I have set up to activate), mash the gas, build 5ish lbs., release the brake and whoa doggy lol.
Now for no lift shifting, I wouldn't recommend this.
It's cool yes but unless you don't mind forking over the money to fix a very expensive T56 regularly, it's just not worth it.
A local guy loves doing those in his procharged Viper and he's on his 5th or 6th rebuild iirc.
If you're that concerned with shift speed and going fast, sell the T56, switch to an auto and have money left over.
08-01-2024, 03:59 PM
#3
I have firsthand experience with this in my '13 SS, so I'll chime in. Yes, you can 100% do no lift shifts with the box. My car absolutely rips at the track doing it, too. Averages around a .3 reduction in ET and 3 MPH gain. Now, the caveat here is that my SS has a clutch position sensor ( like a TPS ) that I installed an a CTAP box from Lingenfelter on so I can engage/disengage the LNC-2000 wherever I want in the clutch pedal travel. I don't know exactly where I have it set, but these cars engage the clutch right at the top of pedal travel so I had to set it to disengage right as the clutch began to bite. This means when I go to stab my clutch, the box cuts spark within the first inch or so of pedal travel. On a 4th Gen, the clutch pedal switch is basically an on/off switch at the very bottom of pedal travel, regardless of where the clutch engages. So, if you engage the box with the pedal depressed, it's going to disengage as soon as the clutch switch is off ( or on, can't recall how it's wired ). If you were to keep your car floored while shifting, during the time the clutch pedal is being depressed, your RPM will flare until the clutch pedal is on the switch. Not ideal. The only way I think it will work correctly is to add some sort of different switch to your clutch pedal that you can adjust to turn on right at the point your clutch begins to bite. Now, if your clutch grabs right off the floor, you might be golden, but if it grabs close to the top, you'll have to figure something else out. I have no idea if someone could retrofit a TPS to a 4th gen clutch pedal and make a CTAP work there, but that would be the ideal setup.
The following 2 users liked this post by LS1Formulation:
trans_am_2000 (08-01-2024), Woodylyf767 (08-05-2024)
08-01-2024, 04:06 PM
#5
I just did the rolling anti-lag with my MSD 2-step box and its marvelous.
The rpm window has to be below 1/3 of the set rpm limit to work.
So, in my case, the two step is set 3,000rpm, but the engine rpm must be at or below 2,000 rpm to activate.
So as long as you activate and are below that threshold it will work.
I can be rolling at 10-15mph, hit my brakes (because that's how I have set up to activate), mash the gas, build 5ish lbs., release the brake and whoa doggy lol.
Now for no lift shifting, I wouldn't recommend this.
It's cool yes but unless you don't mind forking over the money to fix a very expensive T56 regularly, it's just not worth it.
A local guy loves doing those in his procharged Viper and he's on his 5th or 6th rebuild iirc.
If you're that concerned with shift speed and going fast, sell the T56, switch to an auto and have money left over.
The rpm window has to be below 1/3 of the set rpm limit to work.
So, in my case, the two step is set 3,000rpm, but the engine rpm must be at or below 2,000 rpm to activate.
So as long as you activate and are below that threshold it will work.
I can be rolling at 10-15mph, hit my brakes (because that's how I have set up to activate), mash the gas, build 5ish lbs., release the brake and whoa doggy lol.
Now for no lift shifting, I wouldn't recommend this.
It's cool yes but unless you don't mind forking over the money to fix a very expensive T56 regularly, it's just not worth it.
A local guy loves doing those in his procharged Viper and he's on his 5th or 6th rebuild iirc.
If you're that concerned with shift speed and going fast, sell the T56, switch to an auto and have money left over.
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The BallSS (08-02-2024)
08-01-2024, 08:12 PM
#6
Good to hear, my clutch engages closer to the floor I believe and I had the msd box on the clutch sensor before, so if one was to have the clutch switch engage the box either 12v or ground, I forget which but could you have the other activate off a button to activate at a roll to build boost for say a roll race?
08-02-2024, 10:18 AM
#7
My SS has a TR-6060, it actually started shifting BETTER after I began doing no lift shifts. I don't quite get why it would hurt the trans, though. The LNC-2000 cuts spark, which drops RPM and cuts torque. The shift gets made during the torque cut, and when the clutch is engaged, full power is returned. If the RPM flared to 7500 and you banged the next gear, I could see that hurting stuff, but I shift at 7100 and my box is set to 5000. No matter what I do, the RPM is going to drop by at least 2100, you know?
I assumed you had a T56 and to be fair, the guy I mentioned with the viper, doesn't have any box, he just bangs it.
No lift shifting if the timing gets off is really hard on the syncros and associated components.
The next step would be face plating, then you wouldn't need the box but that's not cheap either.
I would imagine everything started breaking in which made the shifts better, but with time (how much time will be interesting to see) it will go the other way, and the shifts will get clunkier and will have to be made slower indicating worn syncros/fork pads.
On the T56, when stuff would start to get worn out, in third gear while cruising, if you lift off the throttle, it will pop out of gear which is pretty common I've been told.
A good friend of mine does trans rebuilds, he had quoted me a little over $2,000 to overhaul mine (mostly parts), then factor in a new twin disk clutch at $1,500 and an auto started looking really good lol.
What I came to realize is that drag racing a manual while quite possibly the most fun you can have with your clothes on, can be a very expensive endeavor.
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08-02-2024, 12:31 PM
#8
Already have the twin disc, and I'm going to buy a Magnum-F in the spring as long as someone buys my stage 4 T-56 this winter. I'm not going to do ANY power shifting until then, lol. ( in my Firebird, that is ). I have a Terminator X in that anyway, so I'm thinking I'll be able to program something in for no lift shifting when the time comes.
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The BallSS (08-02-2024)
08-02-2024, 01:08 PM
#9
The T56 design is really only good to 650-700tq. even if you build them up.
It's just a design limitation so moving up to a TR-6060 magnum is definitely going to be more reliable when handling more power and abuse.
Just saw a used factory stock T56 on here for sale for $2,000.
If bang shifting, high hp drag racing is your jam, buy the best transmission because you'll end up there anyway.
It's just a design limitation so moving up to a TR-6060 magnum is definitely going to be more reliable when handling more power and abuse.
Just saw a used factory stock T56 on here for sale for $2,000.
If bang shifting, high hp drag racing is your jam, buy the best transmission because you'll end up there anyway.
08-05-2024, 09:07 AM
#11
How hard you are on it and how you use it directly correlates with how long it will last.
Even upgraded Viper shafts can only handle so many clutch dumps with sticky tires.
Slipping the clutch a touch on launches, smooth, steady and most importantly accurate shifting will provide years of fun.
Honestly, I'd keep it right where you are or maybe a touch more and just enjoy it.
At that level its still reliable and still pretty darn fast, maybe start an account and toss a couple bucks in from every paycheck so when it breaks it doesn't hit so hard.
That was my plan until my buddy's big turbo auto car was for sale, so I sold the manual car and bought it.
08-05-2024, 09:23 PM
#12
My last car had a stage 3 T56 and was at 700whp for several years, it had everything but Viper input/output shafts.
How hard you are on it and how you use it directly correlates with how long it will last.
Even upgraded Viper shafts can only handle so many clutch dumps with sticky tires.
Slipping the clutch a touch on launches, smooth, steady and most importantly accurate shifting will provide years of fun.
Honestly, I'd keep it right where you are or maybe a touch more and just enjoy it.
At that level its still reliable and still pretty darn fast, maybe start an account and toss a couple bucks in from every paycheck so when it breaks it doesn't hit so hard.
That was my plan until my buddy's big turbo auto car was for sale, so I sold the manual car and bought it.
How hard you are on it and how you use it directly correlates with how long it will last.
Even upgraded Viper shafts can only handle so many clutch dumps with sticky tires.
Slipping the clutch a touch on launches, smooth, steady and most importantly accurate shifting will provide years of fun.
Honestly, I'd keep it right where you are or maybe a touch more and just enjoy it.
At that level its still reliable and still pretty darn fast, maybe start an account and toss a couple bucks in from every paycheck so when it breaks it doesn't hit so hard.
That was my plan until my buddy's big turbo auto car was for sale, so I sold the manual car and bought it.
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The BallSS (08-07-2024)
08-07-2024, 11:12 AM
#13
I actually went out and found a TH475 from an RV/dump truck with the thicker case and straight cut planetary gears to start with, it whines like a bastard in 1st and 2nd gear.
Combined with the turbo noises, it's a symphony of dick hardening awesomeness lol.
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The BallSS (08-08-2024)
Today, 03:19 PM
#16
What about the timing retard activation, I assumed since I want it on with the 2 step I could wire it in with the 2 step 12v activation but with it hooked in the clutch no longer activated it and the button popped my dash fuse, when I unhooked the retard wire the clutch and button both activate the 2 step.