KobeGigi

2001 TA 475 RWHP. What subframe connectors do you recommend? I don't know how to weld.

91 Z28

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't recommend any kind of bolt on subframe connector the bolts will eventually vibrate loose and hog out the holes creating a bigger problem. Welded connectors are the best option out there and plenty of companies offer them, Midwest Chassis, UMI, BMR. If you can't weld yourself then take them to a shop and have the shop weld them on for you.

Nathan C

I have bolt-on SFC, but I used locktite on the bolts. No issues 10 years later. I have the UMI brand, but I have also used BMR on a previous fbody.

KobeGigi

Interesting! So, in reality the bolt ones work really well.

91 Z28

iTrader: (3)

When was the last time you got under the car to check those bolts?? I bet they've hogged out a bit by now

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

I've purchased the MWC weld in and the BMR boxed bolt in subframes and my recommendation if I had to choose between those two would be the boxed in bolt ons and then I'd probably weld them in too if I was going to be using the car for drag racing. After purchasing the weld ons from MWC and comapring the two I like the BMR design due to the fact that it strengthens the area where the LCA is bolted in.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

also remember....most bolt on can be welded later

Nathan C

10 years later and my car still feels pretty tight. Many people have the bolt-ons.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've had SLP bolt-ons on my '98 since 2005. It's been a few years since I checked them for tightness, but they were fine at the ~15 year point. I customized the mounting points though, using a reverse pyramid stack of washers to allow for significantly more install torque. You will know if they come loose, because you will hear them rattling (that happened on my '00 car, which is why I came up with the washer stack to allow more torque).

Plus, as mentioned above, you can always weld them for additional bonding.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Had SLP boxed bolt on subframe connectors on my 99 T/A since 1999. They were checked in 2017 after 18 years, ~150,000 miles and street use. No issues, no problems except for they are heavy. They seemed to help aggressive handling when they were installed with the original springs, struts & shocks. The T/A has just under 170,000 miles now and is still rattle free.

My 02 Z28 doesn't have subframe connectors, has ~265,000 miles and is also rattle free. I don't think subframe connectors have much impact on rattles.

Fair number of rattles are T-top panel related in my experience with 3rd Gen F-bodies. Subframes didn't help with rattles. Replacing the weather stripping helped. Adding fuel to the fire my other 91 RS Camaro a convertible didn’t have rattles. The car didn't have any aftermarket parts ie no subframe connectors. My 72 vette rattles, always had, has T-top and of course had a full frame. Had the weather stripping replaced. Majority of rattles went away.

I think a lot of noise rattles or whatever is from T-tops and or bad weather stripping.

When talking with Sam Strano some years ago, Sam didn't find subframe connectors improved track times on the road course or autocross if I recall correctly provided the car had the correct springs, shocks & struts. SFC's helped with crappy OEM GM springs, shocks & struts. They'd help mask the less ideal spring rates.

For drag racing subframe connectors had more value provided they weren't excessively heavy.

Best benefit of the SLP boxed bolt in subframes on my 99T/A has been as a handy jacking rail. They also helped when the car had stock springs, shocks & struts. They are too heavy for the limited benefits provided if high performance is critical etc. They stay on the car out of nostalgia being along with the Pro 5.0 shifter one of the T/A's earliest mods before heads & cam and before the 416 stroker etc.

If the 02 Z28 gets a power upgrade like m T/A's & sticky tires, the car will get subframe connector, probably UMI. Since the car is used as daily driver & is a bolt on car with Strano suspension, I don't think subframe connectors are worth while for the way the car is used based on 265,000 miles and rattle free.

HTH

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Not sure if this post was related to mine above but, just to be clear, by "rattles" I meant that you will know if the bolt-on SFCs have come loose because they (the SFCs themselves) will rattle under the car.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Don't know how the SLP's are designed but the BMR's are a boxed style bolt on that you can also weld and they tie into the area where the rear lower control arms are mounted to the car. This really stregthens that area where the rear end connects to the subframe because the metal in that area of the car is kind of thin and when you start really putting power to the ground it won't take long for those through bolt holes for the LCA's to get ovaled out. MWC's weld ons do not tie into this area but it does connect the inner part of the subframe on the 4th Gen Fbody car together as where the BMR's do not, however I do like the fact that they have designed it to connect to that area of the car where the LCA's are bolted in. If you're going to go with the MWC's weld on then you need to take some steel and reinforce those areas where the front of the LCA's are mounted if you're going to be doing hard launches.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i do ....feel....the difference with SFCs.....every F body I own gets them....my .02

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

SLP's are a similar design, connecting to that same point, and can also be welded (plenty of mounting plate material for doing so). They (SLP) are a 3-point (connecting to the tunnel brace in the middle).

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

That would make for a really stout piece then.

SteveC

I too have bolt on SLP 3 point SFC, and upon installation, the installer used "Red Loctite" (with the advice " not to try to remove them") , I had them installed 20 years ago, and my vehicle (a garage queen), has 68k miles, has no visible wear on the bolts or on the SFC. I have them regularly checked when doing an oil change. I also purchased a "U brace" from BMR to tie the L&R subframe connectors togeter.

2000dreambird

I have had 3-point and 2-point bolt-in's.

They are pretty much all the same, and bolt-in's can be welded in later on so the bolt in option works both ways.
The only ones that are really different from the rest are the MWC "true sub-frame connectors", I can't personally say if they are any better or worst than the others; but they are weld in only.

2-point is a 9 out of 10 improvement, 3-point is a 10 out of 10 improvement, especially if you have a tunnel brace torque arm.

Carguy8888

iTrader: (1)

What are you referring to as a U-Brace? Strut tower brace, panhard bar or something else?

Carguy8888

iTrader: (1)

I had Midwest chassis weld on units installed years ago and noticed an immediate difference. It might have helped even more since I have a convertible.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I assume he's referring to the tunnel brace that runs under the "U" of the driveshaft tunnel, and connects at the same center point as the SLP SFCs. I had this same brace from BMR on my '00 car, but didn't get one for my '98 (I just left the stock stamped steel one). Not sure if it made any difference - at least not that I could notice.