LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I have a Huronspeed T4 truck manifold kit, using their oil drain lines. The angle going back to the pan is pretty shallow, and when I brake hard, oil flows back up the hose and I get a puff of smoke out of my exhaust. Is there any way to mitigate this aside from installing a small sump and pump?

Full Power

ANY Chance this is a Crankcase Ventilation problem ?
Oil pooling in the brake booster line, gets pulled back to intake manifold ... OR just a completely inadequate Blow-By gas management strategy ?
Your earlier thread indicated an extremely elaborate, complex and possibly counterproductive system with many hoses, fittings and components.
.
I bring this up, because I have a VERY fresh install, in operation two months.

I run same exact VSR 7875 Turbo, on a Huron V4 manifold, and initially I was having very heavy smoke on decel, to the point that I thought my brand new turbo with less than 60 seconds in boost had MAYBE blown out seals. In consult with Huron Speed, and on closer understanding of CRANKCASE Ventilation on positive manifold pressure applications, I completely eliminated the SMOKE problem with a six foot long, 1/2" ID hose from drivers side rocker cover grommet routed up and over brake booster, than down along frame rail, to open exit an inch below torsion bar, in free air stream.
.... No crankcase pressure, plenty of free " ventilated airflow "

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I used a MM PCV can on my last build which was identical and never had this issue unless I was on a steep hill.
I attributed it to the can placing my crankcase under vacuum which aided in turbo draining.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Definitely not a crankcase issue, as it was doing it even with a breather on the valve cover. If I slow down at a stop sign and don't brake hard, it's fine. If I make an abrupt stop, hard on the brakes, I get a puff of oil smoke. It never smokes any other time. My catch can set up isn't elaborate in the least, it's what many people run on here, but it's not the issue - As I said, it was doing it when I had an open element breather on my driver's valve cover. The slope on my oil drain hose is pretty mellow, maybe 5 degrees or so, but I had to do that to make sure the oil was re-entering the pan above the oil level. It's probably inadequate, so it looks like a sump and pump may be my only option, or just live with the oil burning.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Drain line inside diameter?

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

It's a -10 teflon line.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Legit AN 10 hose should have a .56 ID. Which is much smaller than the 3/4-1" ID minimum suggested. Most cheap hose is smaller. Esp. the teflon stuff. The added teflon layer inside that eats up ID.

Then add the poor drain angle and possibly smaller ID's and angles of the fittings themselves. Its just not up to the task of a good drain.

A pump isn't the solution IMO. The solution is to use larger drain hose. I'd get away from the AN lines and fittings as they all suck for drains. Use a simple steel tube drain with true 3/4-1" ID tubing and hose clamps. Your smoke issues will be gone. I've adapted copper 3/4 tubing a few times and it works great.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Or something like this that can be bent into shape.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Yes, those ideas may work better than what I have now. I'll be redoing a few things over the winter and that will probably be one of them.