curious which profesional products intake you got? the one thats "like" the vic jr? or the taller one? and why so tame on the cam? what car is that goin in? and I think 400hp shot will be too much. I pretty much have exactly the same setup as you and I built mine for a 300hp max setup. some people I talked to think that might be pushing it. but hopefullly all I'll need is 125 or so to get me to low 10's anyways.

 

I built the engine about 5 years ago and it has sat on an engine stand ever since. I have been restoring a 70 Chevelle and have lacked funds lately to get the thing to the body shop. I was on a serious budget in HS so most of my parts were bought off of ebay. I could not pass the deal up, it was a lunati solid roller cam with their pop up solid roller lifters for $190. It's just a starter cam and I know its not ideal. I have the 1.550" triple springs with titatnium retainers. I used to know every single detail about the engine but I ended up losing my whole documentation book someo how! The pro products intake looks like a dart or brodix single plane, or like the super victor. I want to make peak power at 7,000 rpm so I know this cam isn't ideal. The big shot kit has a minimum of a 200hp shot so I will start there before I go too high.

 

im almost going to have the same build as nitrous. Since im not running nitrous, ill stick with a cast eagle crank. but other than that, i just bought eagle H beams 4340,
Wiseco PT009H3 pistons, and im about to run to my shop to find out if my block is 1 or 2 pc rear main seal so i can order my crank. Im hoping it was a roller block before so that i can save money on the comp cams hyd. lifters.

I still have to order fel pro headgaskets, piston rings, cloyes double roller, TCI flexplate, harmonic balancer ( not sure on which size to choose, either an 8 or 6), Roller Comp cams w/ atleast a .550 lift and hyd lifters, clevite bearings for the whole block, freeze plugs, milodon oil pan, pushrods, im going to order arp hardware for the whole motor, and stainless arp hardware for the exterior of the motor. The list goes on.

Right now i have
Eagle H beams-300$
Wiseco PT009H3-475$
Pro comp heads-750$
Block-already had it in storage

I have atleast another 1000$ in parts and atleast another 1000$ to machine and assemble the block. Then spent another couple hundred on dyno testing and tuning

 

I put together a 383 all Lunati internals 12.5 to 1 .720 lift cam. Fully cnced Track 1 head (296 231 flow and it made 599 and with a Big Shot set up for 225 hp it made 811. Actual engine dyno figures.

 

Thats a nice setup there. I forgot to mention I think my head gaskets are Mr. Gasket solicor? nitrous gaskets. I think I put a cat power stud girdle on the top end and some interally balanced cat power damper. This is an interally balanced 383 assembly. Erson timing cover with built in gear drive and Im running the comp plastic cam button (dont use aluminum). Since it will be ran on the street I installed oil restrictors I think I drilled the holes out around .090". I fully polished and chamfered all of the oil passages and also polished up the lifter valley area. I also ported a melling hi volume, standard pressure oil pump and I cannot remember but I installed a different spring in the pump? I used to know so much about my build back in HS I spent a great deal of time building it. I had the block decked to a 0 deck height and actually had to take it back to the machine shop twice. The car has a fully rebuilt 12 bolt that I put a new eaton posi unit in with 3.90 gears and moser 30 spline axles. A TH-350 with a full manual valve body and upgraded interals some Torco 3800 stall with anti-balloning plates for nitrous.

Im getting so excited about the car talking about it again I might have to sink all of my bonus into it to get it running. I also reinforced the front control arms with extra material and rebuilt all of the suspension / bushings with poly units and bought a beefy sway bar. I have boxes and boxes of parts I bought for the car, MSD 6AL, msd pro comp distributor with bronze distributor gear (solid roller cams eat these, have they solved this issue yet?) The car will probably never see a cage but who knows, it depends if we ever get it done. We were going to put my engine into a sprint car just for fun but never got around to it. I have never fired the engine and I would love to hear it run. I have 3" dynomax ultra flow mufflers that sounded amazing on a 68 camaro. I also bought a holley volumax fuel pump / filter off of ebay for a great price. Its been so long since I have even looked at my engine /car. Makes me sad I didn't finish it in HS.

 

well I hope you greased up the walls and sealed it up really good. otherwise the cyl. walls are prolly rusty. after all that time. hope Im wrong though.

your setup sounds ok, the cam's prolly better off then bigger for the rest of that setup. but the intake is just too big. if it was a lightweight car with deeper gears and larger stall, then bigger cam and keep the intake. but I bet a vic jr would complement the rest of your setup better then a larger cam instead. that cars pretty beefy and the stall is kinda mild considering that intake wont flow good in the lower rpms. and the rest of the setup will have you in the lower rpm a good bit. but, that being said, the nitrous will prolly make up for it as far as letting the eng. rev nice and quick and helpign to overcome the weight of the car. lol.

 

I'm running about 500 HP with my 383 and I use a Holley Strip dominator. I have no complaints about low end torque - my 383 has plenty! Besides, with the size cam you need to reach 500 HP, the motor is not generally gettin' on until after 3000 rpm anyway. Also, you'll want roughly 3000 rpm stall torque converter. You might as well go with a Victor Jr. or similar.
It's easier to make this kind of power with a roller cam, but more expensive. You won't have much vacuum to speak of.
If this is primarily a street motor, a cast steel crank will be fine. I've been running one for years and I bracket race mine regularly. You don't need to spend $750 on a set of rods either. If you decide you're going to race this thing full time, then go ahead and spend the bucks on a 4340 rotating assembly.
My '69 Chevelle weighs 3500 pounds, has 3.73 gears, a COMP 242/248 duration, .571/.577 lift solid roller, Ported Dart II's with 2.055 intake valves, a Holley 3310 (750 cfm) and a TH350. It runs 11.90's shifting at 6000 rpm.

 

I can give you the recipe for 543 HP @ 6800 b ut let me warn ya. Factory 400 cranks cut down are only good to 500 HP. After that you are living on borrowed time( I have 3 cracked crankshafts to prove it!). As soon as I add 150 shot in a plate kit the motor starts acting strange so I pull it apart and Surprise surprise..........cracked crank. Start off with a good crank from eagle and it is a real simple combo.

 

Im not adding a supercharger,turbo, or nitrous. There is no need for a forged crank, end of story.

Your crank fell apart because you started to add nitrous. A cast crank will easily handle 550 HP, and im not even taking this motor to the track. I don't even think it will see 5500RPM shifts because i don't have the extra money to have my 700 rebuilt again.

 

also i was meaning to ask, is 9.3.1 compression not sustainable with a high lift cam?

Heres a link to my other thread:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f10/38...ml#post5904610

 

OK well shifting @5500 or lower you are actually looking for torque not horsepower. You want something that will make killer torque down low.Sorry I did not realize that you were building a motor for your GRANDMOTHERS camaro!

 

ok, lets have it. or pm it to me since this fella is looking to build a truck motor for his camaro. lol. no really, pm me if you got time.


I can understand the frustration of not wanting to rebuild the tranny again, but if that is really a concern of yours, I recomend 2 things. #1, find a better builder for your trans. mine (yes its a 700r4 in my 95 that went 11.69) cause mine had zero durability issues street driving it all the time and beating it up pretty bad at the track on several occasions. low 1.6 60's too. and 2, why build all that power, if your NOT GOIN TO USE IT? oh, and 3, you dont want to build a high rpm screamer if you know your not goin to shift above 5500 very often. you'd be WAY better off building for midrange and like a 6000 rpm HP peak. the 239/242 hyd. roller in my 95 peaked at 6100rpm. better heads and it prolly would have peaked around 6400. so maybe even stay around 230 duration? or if your goin flat tappet then solid 236/242 is pretty mild and will keep the power in the lower rpm band in a 383.

 

[QUOTE=Irocss85;10780812]ok, lets have it. or pm it to me since this fella is looking to build a truck motor for his camaro. lol. no really, pm me if you got time.


alright here ya go
basic 383 build with eagle crank and good rods flattop pistons ( I use TRW because I found them used and cheap) My heads are IRON bowties that were hand ported n 1992. They are 205cc intake flowing 285cfm @ .600 lift.Any aluminum aftermarket head should be at least close to that.My camwas a budget Herbert racing cam p/n C6G mechanical roller.Victor jr intake with 2 inch spacer and Holley 850. Made 543 hp at 6800 and 518 torque @ 5300through the mufflers. My 3560 lb chevy went 10.23 on a 175 shot with this motor with a 1.37 60'

 

since you are building a TRUE street ride around motor you should get a 454 change the cam and have fun.....plenty of torque there

 

I was told at the time when I was building my engine that a ported brodix single plane is what I needed for my airflow requirements. I could not afford one so I ported the professional products one for now. I don't think a 70 chevelle with an aluminum headed small block weighs that much. Fiberglass hood, aluminum radiator I think maybe 3400-3500 lbs. The 3800 stall actually stalled out around 4000 on a 350 that ran high 11's. So it should stall out higher. Its a solid roller and I plan on winding the bitch out past 7000rpm.

 

Number one: i have a 400 Hp motor in my camaro right now. Just because im not driving around like a nut doing burnouts and racing people on the street doesn't mean i cant have a 500Hp motor. The car weighs close to 4000 pounds, and the 400HP isn't cutting it. Read magazines lately, guys are putting 600HP-1000HP motors in show cars. Should they not build a 600HP car just because they aren't going to use it?

Number 2: I can't use a big block because i already have a small block and the car was built around a small block. The car is 90% finished, this motor swap was a last minute thing. So its out of the question

Number 3: Any transmission can break. And a good transmission will always break your wallet. I had the trans built for a 400Hp motor. Now im putting in a 500HP motor, i must be careful not to hurt the tranny again because its not cheap to have a good tranny built.

Number 4: I wasn't building the motor to be a screamer in the first place. Ive been talking about putting this in a street car the whole thread, why all the sudden is everyone surprised. You usually dont drag race on the roads, so i would figure that he would want something to have fun on the streets with low end torque.

I do have fun with it on the streets so don't get me wrong, this car is no trailer queen. I drive it 3 times a week, so i want to build a good reliable motor so that it will see 50 thousand miles a year

Also this motor is going to be roller equipped, so no flat tappet.

 

are you really trying to make 500HP under 5500rpm? or, it can make 550HP whereever it does, and you'll just never rev it that high except on the rare ocasion? you can do whatever floats your boat. but I dont see any reason for the show car guys to put a 1000HP motor in a car that gets pushed around everywhere either. but to each his own.

so by now Im sure youve determined that you cant use that intake or carb if you want to see 500hp at any rpm. just not goin to happen. I still think you need a nice solid roller cam, vic jr intake, 750cfm (atleast) double pumper mech. secondaries carb, something around the 250duration range and near .600 lift. Id call lunati and comp. cams for there recomendations to match your heads/stall/gearing/veh. weight and figure out what intake your goin to get. the rpm air gap would make a great intake for you since your prime use is street driving. it makes great power to 6700rpm, and kills everything Ive seen comparo tests with for the sbc. even when they show you "X" intake made more power, its always only above 5000 rpm. below is not even close with the rpm air gap winning easily.

 

X2on the RPM air gap

 

to make 500 HP at 5000 rpm you will have to make about 525 lb/ft and without a set of REALLY REALLY nice heads and the perfec camshaft that is a tall order.

 

id really like to make at least the mid to high 400's in the low RPM range and let it peak out at 5 and change HP. I already have a holley 750 double pumper and i definitely second you guys as well on the air gap. But i don't know if i mentioned this already, but later on this motor will have a hilbourn fuel injection on it. Its going to be fully electronic and tuned so that it be able to drive on the streets. I have to do some researching on what type of cams they like, but it could hurt my horsepower because i need the high lift cam.